Author Topic: .308 factory ammo?  (Read 616 times)

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Offline CapitalCop

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.308 factory ammo?
« on: July 31, 2006, 07:06:10 AM »
Let me apologize in advance if this has already been answered many times.  I tried to search the topic and got an error message.

My new .308 bull barrel should be delivered sometime this week and hunting season is drawing near.  What is my best bet for a factory deer hunting round out of a .308 handi?

Offline captkev

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #1 on: July 31, 2006, 08:49:23 AM »
 Do you have the 22" barrel? If so, I've been working on the same issue for some time, I have taken a few deer with mine (last year and the year before)  I started with the 150 grain ballistic tips and just could not get them to group in mine, I went to the 168 grain and got better results.  A friend of mine has been helping me get this thing tuned up, but I guess it all depends what you want from it and how far you'll be shooting. Here is a little bit of the info he has shared with me...

Caliber: 308 Winchester
Bullet Weight: 180 Grains
Bullet Type: Power Point
Game Selector Guide: Deer, Open or Plains, Medium Game
CXP Guide Number: 2 (light, thin-skinned game)

Test Barrel Length: 24"

Velocity (Feet Per Second):
- Muzzle: 2620
- 100yds: 2274
- 200yds: 1955
- 300yds: 1666
- 400yds: 1414
- 500yds: 1212

Energy (Foot Pounds):
- Muzzle: 2743
- 100yds: 2066
- 200yds: 1527
- 300yds: 1109
- 400yds: 799
- 500yds: 587

Trajectory, Short Range:
- 50yds: 0.3
- 100yds: 0
- 150yds: -2.0
- 200yds: -5.9
- 250yds: -12.1
- 300yds: -20.9

Trajectory, Long Range:
- 100yds: 2.9
- 150yds: 2.4
- 200yds: 0
- 250yds: -4.7
- 300yds: -12.1
- 400yds: -36.9
- 500yds: -79.1
------------------------------------------------------------------------
 .308 with 10 twist shoots 180 Gr and larger / 180-190.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
1:10 twist - .308 have a 1:10 twist to stabilize the 180 and 190 boat tailed bullet.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Q. What makes one barrel more accurate than another?

A. If we ignore bedding (the fitting of the barrel to the action and stock) the most important qualities are the dimensions and concentricity of the throat and the bore, surface quality of the throat, consistency of twist throughout the length of the barrel, lack of stresses in the barrel walls and their concentricity, and the absence of significant dimensional anomalies (tight spots, loose spots, reverse taper to the bore) that cause the gas seal to be interrupted or damaged. In addition, the condition and the concentricity of the crown (the muzzle opening) has a great affect on accuracy.

Q. How do you determine the rifling twist needed to stabilize a given bullet?

A. The needed rate of twist is effected by the diameter of the bullet and the bullet's overall length. Longer bullets need a faster twist to stabilize. As an example, a 1:12 twist in .30 caliber will adequately stabilized most commercial bullets of up to about 200 grains. To use a heavier (longer) bullet or to obtain optimum stability and accuracy with long pointed or boat tailed bullets of that weight requires a 1:10 twist. For best accuracy the slowest twist that will stabilize the bullet should be used.

Modern bullet stability calculations are based upon the work of the late Robert L. McCoy who was a ballistician with the Ballistic Research Laboratory at Aberdeen Proving Ground.  His work, now used in advanced ballistics programs, accurately takes into account all of the factors involved in bullet stability and accurately describe the bullet's behavior.

There is an old formula called the Greenhill Formula that, while it was designed for estimating twists for boat tailed lead core bullets of moderate velocity, does a pretty good job of estimating twist required for flat based bullets under "normal" conditions.

T = Twist in inches
K = Greenhill's constant = 150 (This has to do with the specific gravity of a jacketed lead bullet)
D = Bullet diameter in inches
L = Bullet length in inches

T = (K * D2) / L

Using a 1.35 inch long .308 bullet (200 gr) and crunching the numbers we get about 10.5 (One turn in 10.5", which is pretty close to the 1:10 twist normally used in .30-06 rifles. The twist for the .308 is nominally 1:12 because it was based on the shorter bullet of  the150 gr military ammunition from which the .308 commercial round was developed. Most match rifles in .308 have a 1:10 twist to stabilize the 180 and 190 boat tailed match bullets better. The results from the Greenhill formula are on the conservative side--indicating a faster twist than probably needed. That doesn't cause any problems because a little too much stabilization is better than too little.

However, the one catch with the Greenhill formula is that it does not account for the effects of temperature or muzzle velocity. As temperature or velocity decreases a faster twist is needed to maintain the same level of stability.  Colder and thus denser air has a more destabilizing affect than warmer air. A lower muzzle velocity results in a slower rotational speed of the bullet and thus less stability.

As an example of the effect of temperature, the original M16 rifle for the M193 55 gr ball came out with a 1:14 twist which was barely stable at 68 degrees and which was totally unstable below about 40 degrees. They changed to a 1:12 twist to get stability (barely) at colder temperatures. The new M855 62 gr round is unstable below about 65 degrees with the 1:12 twist and requires a 1:9 twist to be stable. They went to a 1:7 twist because the M856 tracer round has a very long bullet, but the ball round does just fine in 1:9.

For velocity issues long bullets are more susceptible than short ones.  For example a particular 210 gr .30 cal low drag bullet from a 1:11 twist barrel is stable from a muzzle velocity of about 2800 f/s and higher. Below that muzzle velocity it becomes unstable.  With a 1:10 twist barrel the bullet will be stable at muzzle velocities of 1400 f/s and higher.

Another catch is that Greenhill assumes that the bullet's specific gravity is 10.9 (a lead cored jacketed bullet).  For other bullet construction such as a steel core you need to apply a fudge factor by determining the bullets specific gravity.  The formula would be:

Twist = [Square Root (10.9 / specific gravity of the new bullet)] * twist derived for a lead core bullet

You can determine the specific gravity of a bullet thusly:

1) Suspend the bullet at its balance point from the pan of a scale.
2) Weight the bullet.
3) Place a container of water under the scale so the bullet hangs fully in the water and weigh the bullet.
4) Subtract the weight obtained in step 3 from the weight obtained in step 2
5) Divide the weight obtained in step 2 by the difference obtained in step 4.

As an interesting exercise you can also determine the spin needed in mediums other than air under "standard conditions" by multiplying the spin for air by the square root of the number obtained by dividing the density of the medium in question by the density of air. As an example water is about 900 times as dense as air:  900 / 1 = 900 and the square root of 900 is 30.  Thus you need a twist 30 times as fast to stabilize a bullet in water.

Hope this helps you as much as it has my ;D
Beep          Beep         Beep                 BeepBeep    Point!           "WOODCOCK"          *BANG*      "Dead bird"

Offline poncaguy

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2006, 08:54:55 AM »
Remington 150 grain Core- Lokt.........for the money , hard to beat for deer.........

Offline CapitalCop

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2006, 09:08:01 AM »
Thanks a lot for the info.  That's good stuff and I learned a few new things.  However, I'm hoping that someone can give me the name of a particular factory round that has a good reputation among .308 handi owners.

Offline captkev

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2006, 09:28:51 AM »
  I used the  Winchester 168 gr. Supreme Ballistic Silvertip  and have had good results with it, here is one I took last year from 200 yards... This deer only went about 50 yards and was dead when I got to it.  the bullet passed clean threw both lungs and came out a hole about the size of a golf ball.



 However, I have found that the bullet don't group much better than 3" at that range off the bench, so untill I find a round that will group better out to 300 yards, I'm kind of limmited on the shots I'll take.
Beep          Beep         Beep                 BeepBeep    Point!           "WOODCOCK"          *BANG*      "Dead bird"

Offline mt3030

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2006, 12:36:33 PM »
The Winchester 150 gr Silver Tips and Power Points have worked well for me in every 308 I've hunted with. Buy a box of several brands in the weight you plan to use and test them to see what your rifle will like best.
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Offline rms4570hr

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2006, 01:09:31 PM »
  Federal fusions are another good one to try.





rms270hr
You know handi rifles are like lays potato chip's with the chip's you can't eat just one same with the handi rifle's you can't buy just one.

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Offline greenjeans

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2006, 03:14:52 PM »
Winchester 150 grain Power Points in my Savage Model 11.
Romans 8:38,39

Offline captkev

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #8 on: July 31, 2006, 10:40:04 PM »
  You did say Bull Barrel. If its the same one I have, (22")  it has the 1:10 twist ....!

 To get the best groups from it,  Read My post above, the facts say 180-190grain min. That means 150gr. dont shoot well in that barrel, witch I have found out the hard way, and that was  by shooting many boxes of the 150gr. bullets in every shape and brand. and spending $$$ on ammo just to get poor results.

 I should have did my research ahead of time. My best groups with the 150gr was just over 3" at 100 yards, and that's just not good enough for me. If you plan on shooting with no wind and less than 300 yards you might be happy with the 150's I steped up to the 168gr. and got 3" groups at 200 yards, now I'm going to try the 180 and 190 grain bullets to see if I can get 2" or better at 200 yards. In the end I think it will be a matter of what you think is good enough. In my own heart I will not be satisfied with just O.K. that will do, I want to know exactley where my bullet is going to hit. Blow up a few balloons the size of a deer heart and set them out at the range you figure you'll be shooting your deer, If I cant pop a balloon at 200 yards, I keep tuneing untill I can.

 Good luck, and keep us posted on what you find and how it preforms for you.
Beep          Beep         Beep                 BeepBeep    Point!           "WOODCOCK"          *BANG*      "Dead bird"

Offline RackWrangler

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Re: .308 factory ammo?
« Reply #9 on: August 01, 2006, 04:35:43 AM »
I have a Survivor 308 and have had good luck with Remington 150 grain Core-Lokt.  Maybe it's just my rifle, but I have had problems with the higher weight bullets.  I only shoot factory ammo, and so far the core-lokt 150's are shooting the best.  And the 6 deer I've taken with this rifle (4 of which dropped on the spot) didn't know the difference between 150's and 180's.   :) :D :D ;D

BTW:  my groups are around 2 inches at 200 yards.  If I really take my time and settle down, I've had 2 different 3-shot groups at 1.5 inches at 200.  Not bad for factory ammo!!!

Hope this helps,
RackWrangler
:lol: Life's too short to not enjoy every minute :lol: