Swede project

[koivu]

I'm in the process of getting some work done on a 6.5 X 55 Swede.  I'm having a timney trigger installed, a new bolt shroud put on, changing the bolt because I'm mounting a scope and various other stuff.  Since I can't do the work myself I realize that I could have purchased a factory rifle for about the same price, but you know how it is, ont thing leads to another and I kind of like saving old rifles.  By the way this one was partially sporterized when I got it.   One thing I'm looking for opinions on deals with the front sight.  I want to keep iron sights on it as back ups, but the front sight is butt ugly.  If I have it take off and replaced with a Williams ramp sight there will be a small cut out on the end of the barrel where the old sight was.  The guy doing the work said he could have the end of the barrel tapered a bit to get rid of the cut out or I was also thinking I could get the barrel cut back the width of the cut out and then hav it recrowned.  I worry somewhat about getting the barrel cut and crowned since the rifle shoots well as it is.  Any of you people have experience with this or thoughts on the matter?  Thanks.

[Brithunter]

Why not use a barrel band fore sight? I believe Williams offers these.

[PeterCartwright]

Hi Koivu!  I live in Michigan's U.P. so names like yours feel comfortable on the ear.  (For the rest of you, that means I live among a large Finnish population).  I'm a HUGE Swede fan.  Like you, I surely could have purchased a factory rifle for what I have in my Swede ( a badly butchered '94 carbine in my case).  Here are some things I did that may or may not interest you:

Like you, I installed a Timney trigger.  I also restocked the rifle with a (Boyd's, I think) laminate stock, which I glass bedded.  A smith installed a Bueller (sp?) scope friendly safety and welded on a new bolt handle.  The frosting on the cake (and my final alteration) came when I discovered an importer who had access to brand new (still in the grease paper) '96 barrels (with that wonderful 7 and a half inch twist).  I purchased the barrel (I think it cost me about $70) and had a smith cut it down to 23" and crown it.  I also had him lap the lugs on the bolt.  The new barrel has the exact stepped contour as my stubby carbine tube, so my bedding/free floating job needed no alteration.  I'm thrilled with my new (old) rifle.  I've opted to forego sights, but any smith can install pretty much what you want.

I love the traditional (fast) twist rate for the 6.5X55 because it does such a wonderful job with those lean, long 160 gr. bullets.  (I like Hornady's).  Since I hunt in heavy timber, long reach isn't really an issue.  Even so, my unmagnum Swede has 200 yard reach and more.  Best of all, I know it will reach vitals from any angle I may wish to take the shot and it will do so without ruining venison!

Keep us up to date on your project.

[koivu]

Thanks for the encouragement.  When I started this thing I was wondering about my sanity.  My father was born in Finland and always used to talk about how people didn't really get the 6.5 X 55 here in North America.  He hunted with borrowed rifles up until the 60s when my mother bought him a Winchester model 100 in 308 which I still have in my safe.  I personally never liked semi-autos but at the time it was the new thing.  I take it out to the range occasionally but don't really trust it to not jam.  I got the Swede because it felt like the right thing to do given my father's advice.  Since posting my question about the front sight I spoke with the guy doing the work for me and he agreed that cutting and crowning the barrel would be a good route.  There was a bit of darkness/pitting in the bore near the end of the barrel and this should take care of it.  I am also having the rifle switched to cock on open and the smith is making the bolt with a textured grid which should look pretty nice.   Like you Peter I restocked the rifle in a Boyd stock that I bought from a guy in this forum.  I wish I had the skills and the tools to do the work myself but I live in an apartment and my wife would not be happy with this stuff on the dining room table.  The parts have been ordered and should be here in a couple of weeks.  When I get the rifle back, I'll try and post a picture.  The toughest choice this fall will be what rifle to take out for deer.  My Remington 7X57, Mohawk 308, Sako 30-06 or the Swede?  Guess I'll have to go out a few times.  Cheers.

[PeterCartwright]

I think your father was right with respect to the 6.5X55, i.e. many people "didn't get it".  I'm tickled that the "Swede" has had something of a revival in the U.S.  Within the last several years, Rifle Magazine published an interesting study from Norway (related by Dave Schoville -sp?) in which tens of thousands of moose hunters related the following data:  cartridge used, distance at which their moose was taken, number of shots fired and distance the moose traveled after the shot.  The results of that data pretty much corraborated what many knowledgable woodsmen have said for years, viz. given adequate bullet contruction (read adequate penetration), bullet placement trumps all.  There was no statistical difference in the moose taking ability between the 6.5X55 and much larger cartridges. 

I'm not an anti-magnum person.  In fact, I'm currently enjoying a project with a .338 Winchester.  Still, the sectional density of 6.5 cartridges like the 6.5X55 make them exceptionally capable game taking platforms without much of the recoil and blast associated with many other cartridges. And while I enjoy using the long old 160 gr. round nose "just because", the 140 gr.-or even 120 gr. bullets have more than enough sectional density for most hunting situations.

I'll look forward to seeing the pictures of your finished product.  Besides, it's fun to contemplate a Finn messing with a Swede (grin).

[Brithunter]

Hmmm you might live to regret the conversion to "Cock on opening" I have yet to hear of one person that tried it who was happy with it.

    May I ask what is wrong with the orginal operation of the bolt?

    I use rifles with both ways of working and cannot really say I really notice any real difference when shooting with one or the other  . Here is my spoterised Swedish Mauser :-


I had the bolt handle changed to the on in the photo other wise it's as I brought it.



    This is my other 6.5x55 Swedish chambered rifle, it's an Obendorf M96 Slide Bolt :-



     Whilst the 6.5 swede is very good for really heavy game I would use this one:-


A Husqvarna Model 46 in 9.3x57mm 
 
     I believe that you will like your project Swede  they are fine shooting rifles made with old world craftsmanship and pride.

[koivu]

I was not aware of problems with the cock on openning system.  My smith did it to one of his Swedes and never mentioned any problems with it.  I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed.  It was more of one of those situations where I just came up with a list of modifications as they came to mind.  Hopefully it will all work out.  Brithunter those are very nice looking rifles.  I only wish my Boyd stock had some checkering but that sort of things after the fact are outside of my budget.  I would have liked to have put a new scope on the rifle but I had an old Weaver K4 in my safe so I'm going to put that on for now.  Maybe the retro look will suit the rifle. Cheers.

[Brithunter]

I hope the conversion works for you as well 

     The big scope on the Swede 6.5 sporter is a Meopta 7x50A held in steel Hilver Mounts, the M96 Slide Bolt caries a Lisenfeld 3-9x42 again in Hilver mounts but QD ones in this case and the Husqvara wears a Bushnell Scope Chief 3x in Hilver mounts I have no idea who did the Swede conversion nor whose stock that is but I was led to believe it was done stateside. I paid $324 for it and the gunsmith in the shop had to dril and tap it as although it came with the mounts the action was not drilled and tapped. That was quite a few years ago now and I ahve had to shim the bedding as it changed over the years one day I will get around to bedding it properly and getting it finally sorted  .

[james]

Love those swedes, I was lucky enough to find one sporterized by Kimber.  It already had the Timmey trigger, bedded action, and cheap ramline stock. It still cocks on closing, which felt right to me since I was shooting M96 and 38 Swedes in their original configuration.
james

[canon6]

I have use the 6.5x55 since 1973 it has killed deer.elk antelope and moose without much fuss,not a lot of powder and without alot of recoil.I used the 120 gr NoslerBT for dee,r antelope and 140 gr Nosler Partition for everything else.I hade very good luck with H4350  hope this helps  enjoy your new old rifle   Doug

[Terrill]

The cheap way to go but it works for me.  Makes a handy walk around rifle with a 19" barrel.  What's nice is that it is one of the most accurate rifles I've ever shot.

[TCBrian]

I have three swedes. One stock 96, one stock 38 and a sporterized 38. I only shoot the sporterized 38 and it is an awesome shooter. Yes,I could have bought another factory rifle, but then I would still be looking for the awesome combination of accuracy balance, knockdown power  and low recoil that my swede gives me. I have many rifles, including the old winchester semi auto model 100 in 308 mentioned above, a ruger #1, win model 70s, TCs of course, and a Rem 700. None of them are as accurate with a variety of loads as my swedish 96 with the original military barrel. I might even try to reload to see if I can get it to shoot bad, just for a challenge. Every bullet and every powder combo, just shoots like a dream.

I would be surprised to find anyone that regrets owning a 6.5x55 mauser. Mine has a synthetic stock, Timney trigger, and Leupold 2 piece base and rings. I have had a few differnet scopes on it, but it currently wears a 4-12 Alpen. I just love it and plan on killing a deer or two with it in the fall, as well as couple coyotes and a hog or two. Hopefully the other guns will get some use too.

Good shooting,
Brian

[Ruskin]

I have an Oberndorf Swede that I purchased to see what the cartridge would do.  After shooting it, I converted my Savage 110Dl .243 to 6.5.  I now have a Swede I want to let go.  I'm a leftie so the right hand configeration doesn't work well for me. 

Anyone know where I can find a n outlet to sell it?

[Zcarp2]

I know that I am interested.  The classifieds at the bottom of the main page on Graybeard would be the easiest place to start.

Zcarp2

[Larry Gibson]

I was not aware of problems with the cock on openning system.  My smith did it to one of his Swedes and never mentioned any problems with it.  I guess I'll keep my fingers crossed.  It was more of one of those situations where I just came up with a list of modifications as they came to mind.  Hopefully it will all work out.  Brithunter those are very nice looking rifles.  I only wish my Boyd stock had some checkering but that sort of things after the fact are outside of my budget.  I would have liked to have put a new scope on the rifle but I had an old Weaver K4 in my safe so I'm going to put that on for now.  Maybe the retro look will suit the rifle. Cheers.

I have done numerous "cock on open" conversions to M93/95 and M96 Swedes for myself and others. I have been using my own M93, M95 and M 96 Swede for some years now without problem. I've had absolutly no negative response concerning those conversions done for others, only praise and a couple other rifles to convert.  Kunhausen advises against it in his Mauser book and many take him and his books as God's gospel, I do not.  The conversion and modification if done correctly pose no problems. The conversion does provide a much easier bolt manipulation from the shoulder and gives a bolt manipulation/lock time similar to the M70 Winchester, which isn't all that bad.  The key to the conversion is to ensure when forming the new camming surface on the rear of the bolt that it is correctly shaped like a M70's.  Also of equal importance is the mating of the surfaces of the cocking piece and the new camming surface. Galling can occur there if they are not correctly mated and polished.  I highly recommend the conversion on sporterized M93/95/96s.

Larry Gibson