Building a 1911...

[flyfisher]

Howdy all.  Just had a question to ask.  I've been kicking around the idea of building my own "custom" Government 1911.  Here's my plan:  buy a frame (through a FFL, of course) and start building.  From what I understand, it's really not that difficult.  Is that true?  Do most of the parts "drop in" to a standard frame?  I realize that there may be some actual smithing and machining needed.  If so, it's not a big deal...I have a friend that owns a machine shop and can do just about anything.  I'm not looking for a Match gun or competition gun, rather just a fairly accurate duty-style gun that will be carried alot.  Please help...am I getting in over my head here?  I just thought that it would mean more to me by building it myself rather than buying a complete 1911.

Thanks,
flyfisher

[lefty o]

if you think most parts are going to just drop in, you are already in over your head.

[flyfisher]

I didn't mean "drop in" as in just randomly slip right in the hole, rather require little to no fitting.  Does that clarify a bit more?

[lefty o]

ive built a few 1911's, and honestly between parts, tools, finishing it is going to be much , much cheaper to buy a finished pistol. as far as i am concerned all parts of the pistol require fitting.

[gunnut69]

Building the 1911 was one of my early projects. It went quite well I suppose but it did hook me irretreiveably on the gunsmithing thing. You won't save a ton of money as you'll likely spend more on the parts than a manufacturer would. Still this is something a decent ameture can do and get by. If you stay away from match grade or oversized parts you should do well. Some parts such as beaver tail safeties will require fitting but over all this is a doable project for the ameture gunsmith. Beware though, it can become addictive.

[Dee]

It would probably be cheaper to buy a 1911 and then personalize it. Even to fit a beavertail grip safety PROPERLY you will need to buy a jig to cut it evenly. I have built many and over-size parts are the way to go due to varying frame sizes and tolerances can cause problems with so called drop in parts.

[Cement Man]

I tried it once about 15 years ago.  I think I am fairly handy, I have some decent tools, and plenty of reference resources.  I bought the best parts I could find - some claimed "drop in", or "prepped", and when I got done, I had a pistol that would shoot - but it was mediocre at best in every way. There was nothing spectacularly wrong with it, but there wasn't anything particularly fine about it either.  Most any decent factory gun would be better. I certainly didn't save any money.  1911s have gotten pretty pricey since then, so I don't know if it makes any economic sense to try it vs. some of the decent factory guns that come pretty nicely decked out today.  If I were to try it again, I might consider doing it in a class environment as a project - some gunsmiths and gunsmithing schools used to hold classes.  I need the tutelage.  Then, you could proabaly use more generic parts (less expensive) and get much better results.  I think a good 'smith can build an excellent shooter with far less expensive parts because he knows how to fit everything well - as opposed to someone like me who bought many expensive parts and didn't have the skills to achieve any quality.  Maybe you will do better.  Good luck. They certainly are fun to fool with.  There is just something about a 1911.

[BloomGrad]

First, get Jerry Kuhnhausen's shop manual book on the 1911.  Then READ it front to back as if you want to memorize it.  Then decide.

Second, if you decide to go ahead with the project I would consider CASPIAN Arms stuff.  I relay the name not from first hand experience with their porduct but from the extensive variety of work that can be ordered done for you.  Ready to go.  Sight cuts, checkering, alloys etc.  This is the way I was going to go for my 2nd big name 1911 project until every gun maker (IE Les Baer, Kimber, S&W, Sprinfield etc.) started making 1911's just the way I pictured my desires to look like.  It became hard to justify spending lots extra when I can just order one from a catalog.

I know that is not the real meaning of doing it yourself but my wallet did get in the way.

My first exercises with a 1911 came when I sent off a Colt series 80 Combat Gov. to several different guys for work.  It was worked on by Les Baer (when he had his own shop outside of Allentown PA), Wayne Novacs shop, Evolution Gun Works, and two others that escape my gray matter right now.  Sometimes to change things that didn't turn out the way I thought it would work. 

An example: A Commander ejector was installed and broke shortly thereafter.  The Smith replaced it free under a warranty.  Then the next stop was Les Baer.  I drove an hour to his shop on a Saturday. (A cleaner workshop I've never seen before or since.)  What a nice and pleasant afternoon lesson in 1911's that was.   Result was the Commander ejecter was an uneducated choice.  He didn't recommed them due to safety concerns on an unfired cartridge being retracted by slide for unloading and it sticking primers.  And so mine was reshaped.  Let me say all work by all these smiths was top notch.  I think I spent over $1500 extra 1986 era bucks above the cost of gun (and lets not forget the long return waiting times) and now it looks like what Kimber sell for under $1000

But it is mine and so, I guess, you should have yours too.  That's what pride in custom guns gets you.

My 2 cents.

GO FOR IT.

[Dee]

I carried a Colt Combat Commander Series 80 I had rebuilt from the receiver up. Blued slide and receiver with polished stainless Bill Wilson parts grip saftey, thumb safety ect. on the outside and barrell and bushing everthing. Inside and out. Beautiful pistol. Also had a Springfield Armory full size Goverment I did the same way. Both pistols absolutely reliable. Then I bought a Kimber Custom TLE II new in the box and worth the money. Two guys that had been wanting the Colt and the Springfield I had custom bilt now own them. The Kimber has everything I would put on one (except the poymer hammer spring housing). And it cost less than mine.

[S.B.]

Locate and buy a copy of "Hallock's .45 Auto Handbook". It will save you money and time.