Author Topic: 1871 Rolling block  (Read 1445 times)

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Offline glshop20

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1871 Rolling block
« on: October 11, 2006, 07:02:15 AM »
Has anyone shot a Remington No.1 rolling bock in 50-70.  If so, how was the accuracy and what type of loads ?

Offline dodd3

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Re: 1871 Rolling block
« Reply #1 on: October 11, 2006, 07:05:27 PM »
i have shot one built on a husky action it was a very accrate gun, if it is done properly cant see why it wont be accrate.
bernie :)
if its feral its in peril

Offline muskeg13

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Re: 1871 Rolling block
« Reply #2 on: October 11, 2006, 09:53:08 PM »
I also have a Swedish #1 in 12.11x44R, which is virtually the same as a 50-70 except for a slightly smaller diameter rim.  I've gotten 3" groups at 100 yards with the V notch open sights.  The load was:

60.0gr (by volume) Goex Clear Shot
Buffalo Arms 12.11x44R Brass (1.733" long)
Lyman #515141 pan lubed with SPG, unsized, 444.4 grains
Fed 210 primer
I'm sure that I used a milk carton or vegetable wad over the powder, but it isn't in my notes.

Recoil was light.  I haven't worked up any other loads yet, but plan to try both Goex FFG and RS Pyrodex this winter.  My rifle is dated 1870, so I'm not going to try any smokeless load.  I'm also not completely comfortable with Hodgdon's 777, as it seemed quite a bit hotter than FFG in several of my other guns.

Offline Tackleberry

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Re: 1871 Rolling block
« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2006, 07:55:25 AM »
I use 777 in my Swede's all the time. Case capacity will never be up to original black powder capacity so even given the 15% reduction Hodgen recommends, it's not a problem. I basically fill the case to a point where a veggie wad on top of the powder will give slight compression and the bullet will seat to where I cannot see the uppermost lube. I am casting a .512 bullet using mostly wheel weights.  I lube with a 50/50 beewax/lard mix. One of my Swede's, the Remington made one, will print a 2-3 inch group at 100 yards with the iron sights. The throat on this one is very liberal and I have no problems chambering. I use reformed .348 Win brass, and also I use .50 Alaskan trimmed down with a tubing cutter. I bought some of the Bertram 12.7 x44R brass, but found it not very uniform as far as rim thickness, or diameter. It is also thinner than the other brass and tends to collapse easier. I'm down to three rounds of it now and will not purchase more. The .348 and .50 Alaskan is slightly smaller in diameter than original brass so you have to let the breech pull the bullet in or you may "miss" the extractor and will have to force the shell out of the chamber with a rod. I am considering having someone rechamber one of my Carl Gustav's to a .50-70 or .50-90 chamber, using the same barrel, and just use the .512 bullet.
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Offline marlinman93

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Re: 1871 Rolling block
« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2006, 06:22:06 PM »
 My Swede Roller was also a 12.7x44R and had extremely deep cut rifling. I used a .514" bullet, and shot it with both BP and smokeless. It shot extremely good, with groups under 3" at 100 yds., with the old iron sights. That's about as good as I can shoot anyway.
Ballard, the great American Rifles!

Offline Redhawk1

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Re: 1871 Rolling block
« Reply #5 on: October 25, 2006, 02:20:57 AM »
Has anyone shot a Remington No.1 rolling bock in 50-70.  If so, how was the accuracy and what type of loads ?

Stick with black powder cartridges, I do in my Shiloh Sharps and love it.
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