Author Topic: building your own bolts  (Read 853 times)

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Offline rickyp

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building your own bolts
« on: October 15, 2006, 06:37:04 AM »
I have a small knowledge of how to build my arrows.
but I am now thinking about trying making my own bolts the crossbow will he up to 185 LB draw.


I know I can cut normal arrow shafts down to the 20", but what size should I use both aluminum and carbon? can I use my old 2216  easten arrows?
and I should be able to use the plastic inserts in place of the flat nocks. but should I cut them back or just use them as I get them.
Will I need a special fletching jig for the flat nocks? what one should I use?
how long should the vanes be from the nock and how do I do this with the jig?
who long should the vans be and should the be fletched straight?
Will feathers work for a bolt?


Offline jh45gun

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Re: building your own bolts
« Reply #1 on: October 15, 2006, 04:56:07 PM »
Depends on the Plastic ends? I know that the Ten Point arrows I have seen has a plastic nock that has a square opening in the end that a tool can be used to pull it out of targets. I think that is another reason that the guys who are shooting the Excalibers are using inserts on both ends so they can buy or make a tool that screws in and you can pull the arrows out of a target with out grabbing the shaft. If it was me I would use inserts on both ends and if I had a factory plastic one on one end I would leave that end for the broadhead. Now if you have a jug that takes a standard nock set up like a bitzenburtger you can buy a smaller size field tip and glue a standard nock on that. Then that will screw into the insert so you can use the fletch tool. Not sure how the Arizona tool works as that does three at once and not sure how the shaft sits in it. Now I use a Bitzeburger jig and it is a right hand helical with a couple of degree offset and it works fine. Others use a straight fletch and that seems to work too but I think the helical gives the arrow a bit more spin. I  am using 5 inch feathers but have used vanes too either will work. I think the feathers are a bit more forgiving than vanes. A lot of guys use 4 inch so either will work. In fact a few guys are using them really short ones and they say they work well too. As far as the vanes from the nock about 3/4ths of an inch is what I set them at. The bitzenburger you can set for different lengths as the clamp is marked. I would guess most jigs are somehow one way or an other.
Said I never had much use for one, never said I didn't know how to use it.

Offline rickyp

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Re: building your own bolts
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2006, 04:02:10 AM »
thanks for the info

Any one know if my ols 2216 arrows can be cut back or should I just buy some 2219?

Offline Digger

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Re: building your own bolts
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2006, 07:37:09 AM »
2219s would be best to reach over 400 gr. , you can get them fron Archers Nook.com or a shop near you. Under $27 US a dozen.
aluminum sizes  2216 (20") or 2219 (20" or 22") - dozen
 
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Offline jh45gun

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Re: building your own bolts
« Reply #4 on: October 16, 2006, 08:54:55 AM »
Digger knows more about this than I do but I would take one of your 2216's cut it, fletch it, put a broadhead or a target tip of the same weight on it and see what it weighs. If you do not have a scale to do so the local archery shop will. For what it is worth I just balance it on my Reloading scale.  :)
Said I never had much use for one, never said I didn't know how to use it.

Offline rickyp

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Re: building your own bolts
« Reply #5 on: October 21, 2006, 04:21:01 PM »
I need a good place to find arrow supplys. I use to use bowhunters warehouse but last time Im checked thye where gone

Offline jh45gun

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Re: building your own bolts
« Reply #6 on: October 21, 2006, 08:58:53 PM »
I am lucky there is an archery shop in the town I live in and a Gander Mountain in the next town to me about 15 miles away. I think Cabela's has lots of gear and they have a archery catalog. Check out their website.
Said I never had much use for one, never said I didn't know how to use it.