Ruger Speed Six .357

[DaveShooter]

I just picked up a near new 357 in 2 3/4" barrel length. What is the verdict any good or not? I was gonna get another sp101 in 3" till I saw this puppy so I took it home one exrra cylinder to feed not 5 like the 357 sp101's.
DaveShooter

[Smokin Joe]

I had one about 20 years ago, and they're damn near "bullet proof". Strong and built to last. Mine saved me from several stupid reloading mistakes.

[Flash]

They're a GP-100 in a different costume.

[DaveShooter]

I had one about 20 years ago, and they're damn near "bullet proof". Strong and built to last. Mine saved me from several stupid reloading mistakes.

Thanks for the input . I do like the extra round over the 5 shooters nothing wrong with them. I do have a 32 h&r sp101 in 3" it holds 6 rounds as well.Beleave you me I also know about stupid mis-takes in reloading.
Sure gives you a memory though dosen't it. I am lucky to have made it to 47 thank God.
DaveShooter

[Rickk]

The speed six, which is a security six with fixed sights, is quite a bit different internally than an GP100.

Personally, I like the trigger pull of the older stylespeed/security six better, but I have 3 of them (2 3/4, 4, 6 inch barrels) and I might just be more used to the feel.

Anyway, it is a good gun that is really hard to wear out or break.

You didn't say if it is blue or stainless. One odd thing that happens on the blued versions is that the plunger that locks the trigger group into the frame tends to build up corrosion, where the stainless versions do not. I am assuming that it is a case of dissimilar metals. Whatever the cause, take it apart once in a while and keep a bit of grease or anti-seaze on the plunger. Rugers are cake to take apart anyway (especially with the special green-handled ruger trigger-group-plunger-pusher-tool that Brownells sells).

[DaveShooter]

The speed six, which is a security six with fixed sights, is quite a bit different internally than an GP100.

Personally, I like the trigger pull of the older stylespeed/security six better, but I have 3 of them (2 3/4, 4, 6 inch barrels) and I might just be more used to the feel.

Anyway, it is a good gun that is really hard to wear out or break.

You didn't say if it is blue or stainless. One odd thing that happens on the blued versions is that the plunger that locks the trigger group into the frame tends to build up corrosion, where the stainless versions do not. I am assuming that it is a case of dissimilar metals. Whatever the cause, take it apart once in a while and keep a bit of grease or anti-seaze on the plunger. Rugers are cake to take apart anyway (especially with the special green-handled ruger trigger-group-plunger-pusher-tool that Brownells sells).

Mine is stainless You are also right about triggers on older rugers vs newer models. They are as smooth as glass. I have only fired this one 6-times. It goes boom evey-time.I can tell this is one fine revolver.
DaveShooter

[Rickk]

you can improve the smoothness quite a pit by polishing the sides of the hammer and also the sidewalls of the frame where the hammer fits.

You will no doubt see some marks on the hammer sides caused by irregular surfaces rubbing. Remove hammer and polish the sides by rubing in random directions with a very fine, damp  polishing compound spread out on a piece os flat glass. You may have to use a courser grit at first. Brownells carries polishing compounds. You can do final polishing with some very fine compound imbedded on the inside of a piece of leather. Stay away from any durfaces that engage anything... kust smooth the sides.

Assuming it is stainless and not blued (or you will be rebluing parts of the frame after you do this) you can smooth the inside of the frame where the trigger fits as well. That is what makes the marks on the tirgger. Brownells sells a stone made spevifically for this. It is the right width to just fit into this slot, and the right courseness to accomplish the job.

While you are shopping at Brownells, if you have too much money in your wallet, you can also get a cylinder chamber chamfer tool as well. All it takes is a few light turns in each chamber to chamfer them to make reloading easier. I shoot a lot of lead bullets and use a speedloader... it really makes a huge difference.