Extract vs. eject

[keebo52]

I just received my new 45/70 barrel fitted to my receiver which originally came with a 25-06 barrel.  I noticed that the 47/70 barrel only pushes the rim of the brass out and then it must be extracted by hand.  The 25-06 barrel completely ejects the brass when opened.  Why doesn't the 45/70 do the same?  Is this normal for the 45/70 or is something wrong with my new barrel?

[quickdtoo]

All H&R/NEF firearms will have extractors eventually, even the rimfires, they're doing away with ejectors as they run out of ejector underlugs. Some like em, some don't but it's not an option. Extractors don't remove the spent case entirely from the chamber, they just lift it from the chamber about ¼", then it must be removed manually.

Tim

[keebo52]

Question answered.  Thanks for the quick reply.  Personally, I like the ejector but I guess I can live with the extractor.

[Dave Allen]

hello...i have two handi's...one ejector...one extractor...while i'm a short time handi guy...six month's now...i think i prefer the ejector..."but" in about 90 round's now in my 22-250 with the extractor i have yet to have "stuck" brass...while not a big deal in the other...it's just something i have noticed...good luck...

[quickdtoo]

Dave, if you look at the leverage the extractor has, a really stuck case would get the rim torn off before it stayed stuck. I prefer ejectors for hunting, but I also appreciate extractors for keeping brass from flying over my shoulder, specially after I've tuned the ejector for more positive ejection. I converted my .45-120 to extractor cuz the brass costs over $2 each! See the FAQ and Help.

After polishing the chamber, the only time I have stuck brass is from carelessness and not making sure the chamber and/or ammo is clean and dry before shooting, or when I reach a load level that's too hot when working up a new load.

Tim

[Dave Allen]

tim...you are right...mac gave me the advice of using a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol to swab... out the chamber before shooting....& i try to remember ?? with the 25/06 with ejector i had some stuck brass the 1st 50 or so round's ... my last 40 or 50 since wiping out real good i have had none...come to think of it i have done the same in the two "fiddy" with the extractor...without a stuck round ?? well heck maybe i learned something ??  like keep the chamber clean !! i do think i like the ejector better ?? "oh" well...

[quickdtoo]

Fred taught me a new trick!! When I fire formed the brass for my .280 Imp, he recommended I grease the cases so they wouldn't stick and cause head separations, I did so with TC BoreButter.....and I had not one stuck case and this was with full pressure start data!!! So, the moral of the story is, either have a really clean case and chamber, or grease em up good!!!

Of course I'm kidding, I'm sure the fact that the chamber has little taper has something to do with it, dunno, I expected 50 rounds of stuck brass, but it worked!

Tim

[Fred M]

Tim.
A lubed case is only for fire forming to make sure the case is not clinging to the chamber wall and fully fills the chamber with the whole length of the case. Fire forming without lubing the case will in short time cause casehead seperation, because only the lower part of the case will expand, the rest will cling to the chamber walls.

Famous incident when fire forming 30-30AI. Didn't we hear about that some time ago?

A lubed case is not to be used for regular loads since it put too much pressure against the standing breech and could cause damage. In the stretchy Handi action it serves no purpose. Do not use lube to over-come ejection problems.

The idea in a Handi is to have your ammo as close to zero head space as you can get. In a dry chamber the case will cling to the chamber during max pressure and then relax for easy ejection. That is why you should have a clean chamber.

In a bolt gun with positive extraction the clean chamber is not all that important.

[quickdtoo]

Thanks for the clarification, Fred.

Tim