Author Topic: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?  (Read 1446 times)

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Offline BRL

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Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« on: November 22, 2006, 08:32:14 AM »
I am in the market for my first bolt action rifle. I am left handed, which is why I've been shooting autos, levers and singles up until now. Being a lefty, my choices are somewhat limited. I would like to ask Ruger fans why I should buy a Ruger over a Remington, Savage or Browning? I do like the stainless with laminate stock in .25-06 that is offered in LH.

Thanks for the input!
B. Leeber
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Offline flintlock

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #1 on: November 22, 2006, 08:51:35 AM »
I bought my Ruger M-77 in 1980...What sold me on this gun over a Remington was the clean barrel and the Ruger mounts...With a Ruger you can check every screw that holds the scope to the gun...It is the best in the industry...Before I bought it home I had the trigger adjusted to 2 1/2 pounds, this gun has never let me down...

I have heard with the newer M-77 IIs the trigger is not as easily adjustable, and you might consider even replacing with an after market trigger...Good Luck

Offline Coyote Hunter

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #2 on: November 22, 2006, 04:00:32 PM »
Ruger, Remington, Browning or Savage?

I have had a Savage that shot great and currently own a Remington M700 BDL in .308 Win.  But my favorites are the Rugers.

On down side, the Ruger triggers are not what I would like.  Biut neither were the triggers on my Savage or Remington, or my buddy's Remington fo that matter.  New Rugers seem to have better triggers, at least in many cases.  Regardless, they are easy to work on and polishing helps a great deal.  Although I have not found it necessary, they can also be replaced easily.

Ruger also pressure beds their rifles except the VT model which comes free-floated.  The first thing I do to the Rugers is free-float the barrels.   HAd to do that to the Savage and Remington, so not much difference there.

On the upside, the Rugers have classic good looks.  The integral scope mounting system is the strongest I am familiar with - no itty-bitty screws to shear off.  The one-piece bolt is another feature I prefer.  Some follks like the older slide safety but I prefer the 3-position safety on the MKII Rugers.  Not that it matters that much to me, as I hav eand like both.

As to accuracy, my Rugers as well as those of my brother and hunting buddy have been outstanding.

In my opinion the Rugers are the best value out there, but to each there own - others feel the same way about the Remington, Brownings and Savage.
Coyote Hunter
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Offline BRL

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #3 on: November 24, 2006, 09:26:03 AM »
Thanks guys. My main concern was the trigger of the Ruger. So many people say that the trigger is pretty bad. But, who knows the last time they shot one of if they even have one?

I love Ruger revolvers. So, I'm already partial to Ruger.

Thanks!
B. Leeber
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Offline ScoutMan

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #4 on: November 25, 2006, 08:49:41 AM »
BLR,

Not much I can add to CH comments. True, the trigger may have to be tweaked.

Here are the tweaking steps I would take from cheapest to most expensive:
1-Polish sear trigger contact points.
2-Order a reduced power trigger return spring from Brownell's and install.
3-Replace factory trigger with a Timney.

I have the Timney installed in the Compact. It "breaks" at 2.5 lbs and is a true joy.
If you can get closer, get closer
If you can get steadier, get steadier.

A telescope helps you see; it does not help you hold and squeeze.-Jeff Cooper

Offline daddywpb

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #5 on: November 25, 2006, 10:30:43 AM »
I have two M77's. One is a walnut/blued 30/06, and the newest is an All Weather in 350 Rem Mag. Both have Nikon Buckmaster 4.5x12x40 scopes on them in the rings that come with the rifles. The factory triggers were horrible, at least to me, so after dry firing a bit I replaced both triggers with Rifle Basix triggers. Both have about a 1 1/2# pull with zero creep and overtravel. Other than the trigger, they are ready to go out of the box. Both of mine will cut a ragged hole at 50 yards, 1" groups at 100 yards and about 2" - 3" groups at 200 yards. Those groups were shot sitting on the ground with cross sticks, not locked down on a bench. The 350 drops about 7" at 200 yards with a 100 yard zero - the 30/06, a bit less, but I wouldn't hesitate to shoot at an animal at 200 yards with either. I can easily keep all shots on a 4" paper plate. I wouldn't part with either of those rifles for any amount of money.
I originally had started with a Savage 110 because of all the good things I had heard about them being resonably priced and accurate out of the box. I did not experience that with mine and quickly sold it and bought the Ruger "06 about 3 years ago. The 350 was bought this year because I was cringing every time it started to rain on the beautiful walnut stock. I don't have to worry about this one.

Offline K.K

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #6 on: November 25, 2006, 03:08:03 PM »
Another plus for Rugers is that they are extremely rugged and strong, not just in the bolt actions, but accross the board.  Given a modicum of care, they will last several lifetimes.

Offline Coyote Hunter

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #7 on: November 28, 2006, 05:09:36 PM »
Forgot to add, classic good looks.
Coyote Hunter
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Offline The Sodbuster

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #8 on: December 01, 2006, 09:52:43 AM »
BRL
I picked up the stainless, laminate Ruger M77 MkII in .25-06 left-hand last March.  I really like the rifle.  I also own some lefty Savage's.  The Ruger is prettier, but I don't know that it shoots any better or worse.  I put a Timney trigger on it and a decelerator recoil pad on it (Ruger factory pads are hard).  Haven't done anything else to it.  It will shoot some of my handloads inside an inch at 100 yards.  At 200 yards they come in a little under 3 inches. 

I put a Burris Fullfield II scope on it.  I was able to get one in an olive finish instead of black which looks great on the olive-hued, laminated stock.  It's not a lightweight rifle, but I don't mind the weight (it ain't what I'd consider a heavy rifle either).  I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to another lefty.  Too bad Ruger doesn't make a left-handed short action.

Offline Golsovia

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #9 on: December 05, 2006, 02:39:45 PM »
If the trigger is a concern to you, you might wait and see what the M77 Ruger Hawkeye offers. It's supposed to have  an improved trigger.

Offline Cement Man

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #10 on: December 05, 2006, 07:03:02 PM »
What I like about my Rugers -
Decent Plus wood - classic Lenard Brownell styled stock - done just the way I like 'em
Designed and built extremely well and strong - one peice bolt, superb ring system included with rifle.  If I needed a different ring height, Ruger has exchanged them for me at no charge.
Floorplate release design - works well for me when cold and dark with stiff cold fingers
Controlled feel, strong extraction, very dependable
Excellent accuracy - mine are better shooters than I am, and I have had no accuracy issues. 
3 position safety is in my mind absolutely positive.  I often sit in trees and I have never dropped my rifle, but I do think about what could happen if I did.
Excellent variety - carbines, scouts, targets, sporters, international models, cartridge selection, stainless, synthetic, wood, blue,laminated
I have had nothing but good experience with Rugers, in the last 40 years I have owned and used their handguns, rifles, and shotguns, and chose to send one gun in for service (cosmetic issue).  Service was excellent.

I own and use other brands of rifles as well, but my "go to" guns are mostly Rugers.  My favorite deer rifle is a stainless/synthetic .308 with a Timney trigger and the barrel shortened to 20".

TRiggers?  Yes I like them lighter than what comes from the factory.  I usually don't attempt trigger work, but I do install replacements (mostly Timneys).  I take other folks word that they aren't hard to do, but I do like the Timneys a lot, so that is what I do.  All of my factory triggers on the M77's have measured from 6.25 to 6.75 lbs, by the way, and I could live with that, but I really appreciate a lighter, adjustable trigger so I install the Timneys.  I have seen statements about 10# factory triggers but I have never run across one even close to that. 

There are a lot of nice rifles out there, but Ruger has most all of the features I strongly prefer in a hunting rifle. 
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Offline hilltop4200

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #11 on: December 06, 2006, 08:44:33 AM »
I have two M77's. One is a walnut/blued 30/06, and the newest is an All Weather in 350 Rem Mag. Both have Nikon Buckmaster 4.5x12x40 scopes on them in the rings that come with the rifles. The factory triggers were horrible, at least to me, so after dry firing a bit I replaced both triggers with Rifle Basix triggers. Both have about a 1 1/2# pull with zero creep and overtravel. Other than the trigger, they are ready to go out of the box. Both of mine will cut a ragged hole at 50 yards, 1" groups at 100 yards and about 2" - 3" groups at 200 yards. Those groups were shot sitting on the ground with cross sticks, not locked down on a bench. The 350 drops about 7" at 200 yards with a 100 yard zero - the 30/06, a bit less, but I wouldn't hesitate to shoot at an animal at 200 yards with either. I can easily keep all shots on a 4" paper plate. I wouldn't part with either of those rifles for any amount of money.
I originally had started with a Savage 110 because of all the good things I had heard about them being resonably priced and accurate out of the box. I did not experience that with mine and quickly sold it and bought the Ruger "06 about 3 years ago. The 350 was bought this year because I was cringing every time it started to rain on the beautiful walnut stock. I don't have to worry about this one.
I have been debating getting the 350,but was concerned over the recoil.How is the recoil?I have been told it is in the 30-06 class.If that is the case,I may get one.Also what load do you shoot?Thanks.

Offline The Sodbuster

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #12 on: December 10, 2006, 05:43:00 AM »
Hilltop4200 asked:
Quote
I have been debating getting the 350,but was concerned over the recoil.How is the recoil?I have been told it is in the 30-06 class.

I don't have a .350 Mag, but I've run the numbers through my recoil spreadsheet.  Shooting 150-180 grain bullets, the .30-06 comes up with around 17-19 foot-pounds of recoil.  Using 200-250 grain bullets, the .350 Rem Mag, in the same weight rifle, produces around 23-25 foot-pounds of recoil.  It's more than .30-06, but less than what a .300 Weatherby kicks. 

Offline slim

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #13 on: December 27, 2006, 10:28:40 AM »
BECAUSE THEY MAKE GREAT STUFF, AND BACK IT UP!

Offline wahunterinrok

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Re: Why should my first bolt action be a Ruger?
« Reply #14 on: December 28, 2006, 02:30:13 PM »
My first bolt action was a Ruger 77MkII, in 300 win mag.  It is the old boat paddle stock, and is definitely my go to gun.  It has a Deaccelorator(sp?) recoil pad, a timney trigger and a Leupold VX-II 3-9 on it.  I have dragged it all over the place, and recently spruced it up a bit with a gray paint job on the stock... This is one rifle that ain't leaving em anytime soon... That and its partner, a 5 1/2" Ruger Blackhawk in 44 mag...
Just back form Iraq, glad to be back in Colorado!!!!
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