Author Topic: Remington SPR18 (Read 79184 times)

Brithunter · « **Reply #210 on:** May 19, 2010, 06:40:09 AM »

You sure remington didn't chamber these?

Sounds like their sort of craftsmanship

OK fire away I am under the mantlet and have donned the TIN HELMET

Seriously I hope you get it sorted out

I would be really peeved if it was mine.

Airsporter · « **Reply #211 on:** May 29, 2010, 03:35:28 PM »

Not getting much of an argument here

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #212 on:** June 25, 2010, 03:18:46 PM »

Hello all.

Just got a new in the box "Remington" SPR18 in 308 ...

Really was an accident; ... I wanted a Ruger #1 but those prices put me into orbit;

and the SPR 18 looked better than the H&R / NEFs for the price..
$:-\$

Probably paid way too much ...$275 ... [auction fever].
Did not really know what I was getting into, ...

... but it looks "salvageable". $:-\$

Have studied the previous posts; and really appreciate all of the great pioneering work of the "oldtimers".
Sounds like you guys have been through hell turning this thing into a really good rifle.

Still trying to decide on scope mount system.
$:-\$

Am leaning toward B Square / Sun Optics adapter: 11mm to Picatinny rail / Weaver base.

Even if the good steel 11mm rings work for a particular application, there is the no way to change the scope position.

Milling the receiver to take a Marlin Weaver base plate seems like a lot more work / $, and permanent change to rifle.

What do you oldtimer pioneers think?

Which adapter plate / approach do you favor?

Should I just sell the SPR18 and buy a Ruger #1; ... or a Thompson Center ... or a H&R / NEF?

Thanks,
Chuck

jedman · « **Reply #213 on:** June 25, 2010, 06:10:54 PM »

Heh Chuck, dont give up so easy on your rifle,
I have the same one and think its quite GRAND !!
Make your choice as to how you want to mount your scope and give it a chance?
then report back Ehh,

Kmrere42 · « **Reply #214 on:** June 26, 2010, 01:52:03 AM »

Hi,

My rifle is still in Florida in the repair shop. Should be done soon. I hope they are putting a new barrel on it.

As to mounting a scope. Do a search on E-bay for the following " 25mm Rifle Scope Dual Ring Mount for 11mm Rail " It has a cut down base that is close to the right length for the 11mm grooves on the receiver. The price is right and has a locking screw that should go into the cross groove in the receiver. I can't check mine as I purchased the mount after I had sent the rifle back,

Paul

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #215 on:** June 26, 2010, 10:50:13 AM »

What is the best option for this Remington SPR18 [Baikal] :



Sell it and get something else [bolt actions, Ruger #1s, etc., etc.]; or …

spend the time and money to turn it into a respectable rifle.



Apparently, it will take a lot of work [scope mount, trigger, etc., etc..] to pull this diamond out of the rough.



^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

What can / will I use it for?

As a break barrel rifle [unlike bolt actions, Ruger #1s, etc., etc.];

it is not suited for prone / precision shooting etc., etc..

Since it is very compact and fairly light weight, it seems to be better suited to:

a [Cooper] scout rifle, …

a big game heavy brush gun, …

or a mountain gun.

If I keep it, what makes the most sense: ...

a big variable scope; ...

a compact low power scope; ...

a red dot,

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Still trying to decide on scope mount system:

Am leaning toward B Square / Sun Optics adapter: 11mm to Picatinny rail / Weaver base.


Even if a set of good steel 11mm rings work for a particular application;
there is very little distance between the rings, and ...
there is the no way to change a scope position.


Milling the receiver to take a Marlin Weaver base plate seems like a lot more work / $, and permanent change to rifle.


Which approach do you favor?

Should I just sell the SPR18 and buy a Ruger #1; ... or a Thompson Center; ... or a H&R / NEF; ... or


Thanks,
   Chuck

Kmrere42 · « **Reply #216 on:** June 26, 2010, 12:52:12 PM »

Hi Chuck,

Please don't yell, There are times when I have posted and was looking for some feedback but it never came.

First thing would be to shoot it and see if it stays within 2.5" @ 100 yds. Then work on the handloads and see if you can bring it down to 1.5" at the same distance. If so Keep it.

Scour the local gun shops for an old steel bodied weaver scope and use it for the occasional off weather days when you really would not want to bring out a thousand dollar rifle, or better yet as a loaner for someone who wants to start hunting and doesn't yet have a rifle.

Paul

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #217 on:** June 27, 2010, 02:13:10 AM »

Sorry; was trying to learn how to use formatting here.
I cannot see this type face / font to compose.
For my regular email traffic, I use Verdana 14pt.

I am blind as a bat, ...
cataracts are getting bad; ...
retina is sloughing off, and ...
VA finally told me that I have glaucoma.

I was in pretty good shape till 2006, but have really fallen apart since.

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #218 on:** June 28, 2010, 09:17:48 PM »

Have found 3 solutions:

1] Mill the receiver to take a Marlin 336 [flat] Weaver base plate;
Problem: more work; and ...
permanently changes rifle.

2] Use a set of good [B Square, Lyman] steel 11mm European claw mount rings;
Problem: works for only a few particular applications; and ...
there is very little distance between the rings, and ...
there is no way to change a scope position.

3] B Square / Sun Optics adapter: 11mm to Picatinny rail / Weaver base.
Problem: adds height to scope;
may require a Monte Carlo / cheek pad on rifle stock

Which approach do you favor?

Brithunter · « **Reply #219 on:** June 29, 2010, 01:45:17 PM »

Well part of the scoping problem is the shooting style favoured in the US. here in Europe the stance is more natural with head erect so the lower comb is not such and issue. Sights choice will be determined by intended use surely. I have tried a 3-10, a 6x40, M8 Compact 4x Leupold and I fitted a varible to sell the rifle with.. On mine the scopes all worked wiht the steel Hilver rings on the original dovetails o the breech area of the barrel.

You'll get it sorted

.

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #220 on:** June 30, 2010, 10:43:12 AM »

This entire Alice in Blunderland adventure is a result of their bidding up of the price of the Ruger #1 that I was chasing like a hound striking a fresh trail.

In my heart that Ruger #1 is what I really wanted ... and still want.
I should have squeezed the piggy bank harder ... the winning bid was certainly in the range of market prices.

Why are prices so blooming high for Ruger #1s ?

$:-\$

The Remington SPR18 really does have a lot of potential ... at about 1/3 the price.
In fairness, the cost of the trigger work and scope mount challenges still brings it in at 1/2 the price.

$:-\$

Is the Ruger #1 perfect, or does it have hidden warts ?

$:-\$

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #221 on:** July 18, 2010, 12:43:40 PM »

How hard / expensive would it be to rechamber a [single shot] 308Win Remington [Baikal] SPR18 to 30-06 ?

$:-\$

jedman · « **Reply #222 on:** July 18, 2010, 02:01:57 PM »

Why would you want to do that ? First off, I dont know that a 30-06 would clean up a 308 Win. chamber due to the larger should diameter of the 308.
On a $200.00 gun like this you would be better off trying to find someone who would swap with you. But really of the items you complain about that you do not like about the SPR 18 you have, a 30-06 would be no different.

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #223 on:** July 19, 2010, 01:01:10 PM »

Dog Gone it !

I had a bad feeling that this would not be a simple / easy option.

It seems that there is more reloading data and more flexibility with 30-06.

Also, I can find the "Managed Recoil" Remington ammo in 30-06, but not in 308.

I am a decrepit old physical wreck ...

... with horrible arthritis, torn rotator cuffs, dangling tendons, and "exploding" retinas.

Looks like I need to keep looking for low recoil loads for 308win.

Also, ...
I need to start saving up for a Ruger #1 in 30-06, 270Win, 25-06, or 243Win, or ? ? ?

Thanks,

Chuck

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #224 on:** July 27, 2010, 03:33:27 PM »

http://cgi.ebay.com/Low-One-piece-Scope-Mount-1-Ring-11mm-Rail-NR3B-/270493499052?cmd=ViewItem&pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3efaab3eac
I used this base set and ring set up on my 243 cal.
I also will say you will have to retap to I think 6/42 and add a extra hole to the rear so it makes 4 holes on the rail.
I also set it it up and countersunk the rear screw into the rail base mount on top of the action
I can say it will not move

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #225 on:** July 27, 2010, 04:27:07 PM »

$:-\$

Near as I can tell, these should work well on the Remington "International" [Baikal] SPR18:

http://www.bkltech.com/BKL_4_in_Dovetail_to_Weaver_Adaptor_p/bkl-568.htm

http://www.bkltech.com/1x4x0_6_High_Rings_6_Screw_Unitized_Dovetail_Mount_p/bkl-260h.htm

Has anyone had any experience with these?

Thanks.

jedman · « **Reply #226 on:** July 28, 2010, 01:27:05 PM »

Both of those mounts look like they fit a standard 3/8 dovetail. Plus they add a lot of unwanted heigth, I dont think they will fit your gun.
The mount that lonewolf has pictured looks much better and is made for a 11 mm dovetail. Jed

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #227 on:** July 28, 2010, 01:54:11 PM »

Thanks.
Just checked it out, ...

and found some other neat stuff there.

The folks at BKL say that those are for 11mm, ...

also, ....
they say that theirs will work for both Weaver and Picatinny rail. $:-\$

I would sure use a Picatinny rail for a red dot, light, etc..

Lone Wolf was talking about a fair amount of gunsmithing to get his to work.

? ? ?

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #228 on:** July 30, 2010, 01:05:22 AM »

Not much smithing involved all is needed is a drill press and a drill and tap
I think the total time was 30min:
I would say the 3 holes will work but the cheap screws will not .I used a tap and retaped them to 6/42 or it was 6/48 no need to redrill the 3 that are there just run the tap threw them.The back side has a hold down screw so set it up and mark it on the rail countersing the rail so the screw lock into the top of the 11MM rail:I can say it been on now for 2 years it never moved.

Swampman · « **Reply #229 on:** July 30, 2010, 01:52:41 AM »

It's a shame Remington ever imported these. They are quite typical of overseas work.

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #230 on:** July 30, 2010, 03:06:40 AM »

$:-\$
They sure could have saved everyone a lot of grief if they had just included a base plate adapter with each rifle.

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #231 on:** July 30, 2010, 04:41:46 PM »

I will say it took a lot of my rime to get this think to shoot but it will tack drive 85 to 95 Gr. bullets love hot charges.I started out with a 7 pound trigger pull and after some time into it breaks real good at 2 3/4 lbs
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a380/lonewolf5347/243-30-06001.jpg
I also cut the stock and added a new recoil pad man all I can say this thing will shoot,no need to let the barrel cool

Yes, 357_SIG · « **Reply #232 on:** July 30, 2010, 09:54:44 PM »

Thanks!
I really appreciate all the great help and advice.

After "doing the math", I have decided to keep my 308 Win Remington "International" [Baikal] SPR18 and fix it up.

You folks have proven that it has the potential to be a really good rifle; ....
for 1/4 to 1/5 the cost of a Ruger #1 ... with only a reasonable amount of work.
Eventually, I may still add a Ruger #1, [probably in: 243 Win, 25-06, 270 Win, or 300 Win].

It didn't seem that bad when I started out.
I just wanted the 30-06 Ruger #1 in the Standard Sporter [1B] which is available in 30-06 and 300 Win mag

Things got really complicated when I saw the K1B [laminated stock with stainless steel barrel and action] which I really like;
... but is available only in 270 Win, or 300 Win mag.

Seems like that would be great for a serious hunting rifle.
We never had anything like that when I was dragging nice hunting rifles around many years ago ...
scratching and gouging soft wood and blued steel over fence rows, deadfall, barbed wire fence lines, nasty rocks and boulders ...through snow, rain, and mud.

Please excuse me for being in "sticker shock" over all of this.
I have been "out of the loop" for a long time, and just haven't kept up with prices.

I just wish that I could afford ... just a few ... Ruger #1s.
At least a K1B in both 270 Win and 300 Win mag.
By the time you get out the door with a scope and taxes,
these dog - gone smoke poles will set you back a good $2,000.000 ... each.

OK, OK, ... I'm going to date myself and sputter "That is more than I paid for my first brand new car !"
Actually, that is also more than what my folks paid for the house that I grew up in; and we had over an acre with it!

To make things even worse, now that I have seen the prices on and limited availability of ammo, it sure looks like I will get back into reloading; which will surely end up costing another $1,000.00 + +

It's enough to make a fella take up golf ... and serious drinking.

poncaguy · « **Reply #233 on:** August 01, 2010, 03:13:01 PM »

I'm very pleased with my SPR 18 308, groups average around an inch, was having trouble, found the back base had come loose, was great after I tightened it.

Venison Stu · « **Reply #234 on:** November 18, 2010, 09:44:27 PM »

Hi all from here in Nelson, NZ. I've got myself one of these in 270 and am pretty happy with it so far. No mis-fires etc and scope hasn't seemed to drift off... so far anyway!

I'm a novice with firearms, and so would love to hear comments anyone has about the best method for stalking with one of these. I've only had it out a couple of times. The first time I carried it around with a cartridge in chamber, but the action broken open. This was not a great method as the clunk it makes on closing is not liked by our local deer!

I've had someone suggest to me that the way to go is to uncock it with a cartridge loaded - you do this by pulling the trigger with the cocking lever half pulled, then gently releasing the lever. Then when you (hopefully) see an animal you can silently cock the gun and BOOM! Venison Stew...

Sounds OK to me, but as I say, I do know one end of a gun from the other, but that's about it... Anyone got any thoughts on the safety of this method? What's the chance of it going off by accident following a bump etc? Is the firing pin just flopping around in this configuration, just waiting to be jogged into the primer or what?

Thanks for any comments - hope this thread isn't dead...

Cheers

Stu

Brithunter · « **Reply #235 on:** November 19, 2010, 07:08:41 AM »

Stu, as far as I could see the hammer is of the rebounding type as is the firing pin so yes you should eb able to carry it like you describe. But carrying it open if you also squeeze the cocking lever as you shut the action it will close silently. Just make sure you close it tightly or it won't fire as there is a safety thing which stops it firing if the action is not locked fully.

Venison Stu · « **Reply #236 on:** November 19, 2010, 08:32:33 PM »

Thanks for your thoughts and hints. Firearm safety is a hot topic in NZ at the moment after a spate of recent death/ near miss incidents. Makes you think about the way you do things so hopefully it's not me featuring in the next headline. All the best

jedman · « **Reply #237 on:** November 22, 2010, 05:05:43 AM »

Stu, Does your rifle NOT have the safety behind the trigger ? All of them that I have seen plus the shotguns have a crossbolt safety ? Jed

Brithunter · « **Reply #238 on:** November 24, 2010, 01:50:38 AM »

Safety is a state of mind and training.

It is not a device

.

The crossbolt "safety" only blocks the trigger:-

It does not block the hammer that I can see.

wvcruffler · « **Reply #239 on:** December 14, 2010, 06:18:59 PM »

My experience:
I have a SPR 18 MH in 7.62x39. Mine has a little better trigger than what I hear on here and slapped a cheap 3x9 wal mart illuminated reticle scope. Sighted in with Wolf 154gr SP and some 150gr hornady .311 over IMR 4227 handloads. The wolf groups about 0.5" lower and around 2" at 100 yds. That's minute of deer to me. I popped a large doe last week at the nape of the neck and she dropped. Bullet entered right nape and exited left shoulderblade. There was a fair amount of damage to the fore backstrap according to the butcher (I was leaving for Vegas - had to drop it off!). All in all I was pleased. I have confidence carrying this rifle in the woods where shots are less than 150 yds. The doe was right at 100 and bullet went right where I aimed it. Also, there is a seller on ebay for aftermakek IZH stocks and she says walnut stocks for the IZH 18MH will be available in January.
http://myworld.ebay.com/valeriizhelezniakov/
Anyhoo, for <$300 for scope, rifle, and quite a bit of ammo I am more than pleased!
Dr.Phil in West by God Virginia