Author Topic: Remington SPR18 (Read 79309 times)

Charlie-SA · « **Reply #180 on:** February 02, 2010, 09:44:06 AM »

I ordered a dovetail to picatinny adaptor from airgun supply plus a set of high rings. I'm not sure the adaptor is true Picatinny standard but even so it will give me a little more flexibility in postioning the rings. I'll post a picture once I get it put together.

kiwigeezer · « **Reply #181 on:** March 03, 2010, 09:17:10 PM »

Just added a short review on the Baikal IZH-18 (the southern hemisphere version of the SPR) on my blog: www.kiwigeezer.wordpress.com

Airsporter · « **Reply #182 on:** March 06, 2010, 07:40:58 AM »

I got a bit frustrated with the short 11mm dovetail so I milled it flat, per Fred M's thought, and drilled and tapped it for a Marlin 336 base (63B).

quickdtoo · « **Reply #183 on:** March 06, 2010, 08:05:36 AM »

Pic posting is real simple if your pics aren't too big, see the pic posting sticky in one of the classifiied forums.

Tim

Airsporter · « **Reply #184 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:20:25 AM »

Thanks quickdtoo. Been one of those days!

After milling the receiver flat, I drilled & tapped four 8-40 holes for the supplied base screws. Also cut the rear cross slot in the base.

Airsporter · « **Reply #185 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:28:56 AM »

Now that I'm on a roll, here are some comparison pics between IZh and Handi:

The first pic is the IZH with standard 11mm dovetail, second is a handi, third is IZH with weaver base.

The second pic shows the receiver extension of the IZH for the forend attachment vs. the barrel stud used by the Handi. I really like this feature.

Airsporter · « **Reply #186 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:36:48 AM »

Here's a better view of the receiver extension:

quickdtoo · « **Reply #187 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:38:38 AM »

Nice work!!

Tim

Airsporter · « **Reply #188 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:47:46 AM »

The extension is not attached to the barrel, but there is notable upward pressure - kinda like the recommended accuracy fix for the Ruger #1.

Pic also shows large, solid extractor pin. The extractor is completely mechanical. The pin extends out both sides and fits into diagonal grooves milled into the interior of the receiver. As barrel is swung open, extractor is forced out to extract the casing.

Spanky · « **Reply #189 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:50:24 AM »

My local dealer has one on the shelf in 7.62x39 for $349. Seems kinda expensive. What do you guys think about the price??

Spanky

Airsporter · « **Reply #190 on:** March 06, 2010, 11:00:56 AM »

I agree, it's a bit high. I paid $237 (including shipping) from Bud's + $25 transfer for mine. 308's still available at Bud's for $195 (including shipping), 30-06 is $237 in blue or $195 with nickel receiver.

http://www.budsgunshop.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/20740

I had a small problem with my .308 Win. Had to reshape the tiny extractor latch. It was holding fired casing too tightly.

Spanky · « **Reply #191 on:** March 06, 2010, 12:26:53 PM »

Thanks Airsporter. I thought that seemed high.

Spanky

jedman · « **Reply #192 on:** March 12, 2010, 03:28:30 PM »

Well I had to get one of these, I have been eyeing them on Buds website for a couple of months now.
I have been downsizing my rifles the past year but for $ 195.00, I could hardly resist not getting one while they are still available. I got the blue / black receivered gun in 308 Win., It's got decent looking wood and the overall finish is quite nice.
The first thing I did was check it for headspace, it's perfect !! the trigger is creepy but not to heavy for pull, I'll have to work on that. The weight is right at 6 1/2 lbs. I plan on milling the receiver top and putting a Weaver style base on it and removing the sights, I have a older Luepold 2 X 7 compact scope that will go on this rifle.
I also plan on epoxy bedding the forend so there is no rattle space there.
I was somewhat surprised that in the paperwork that came with it, this rifle was made in 2004, it does not say SPR 18 on it anywhere just Remington and is stamped IZH18MN on the receiver.
I must say I am quite impressed overall with the gun so far, if it will shoot as good as my Handis do it will be a nice lightweight carry rifle and like it or not a 308 Win. will take any game Im likely to hunt.

Jed

mrachal · « **Reply #193 on:** March 20, 2010, 12:06:04 PM »

Has anyone seen a synthetic stock for one of these? I have one in .243 and love it but would like to have a synthetic stock.

Mike

ncfz6 · « **Reply #194 on:** March 30, 2010, 07:07:57 AM »

Hello Guys, Just joined the site. I found this place a while back while looking for info on the SPR18. I purchased one yesterday ay my local dealer. It's a 308 still in the box. Haven't fired it yet been cleaning all the packing grease from it. The dealer still has 4 of them all in 308. I paid $229.00 plus tax. It's really a good handling rifle and should shoot good. Thanks for all the info on this site. Helped me make up my mind on this gun.

jedman · « **Reply #195 on:** May 06, 2010, 04:12:00 AM »

This is a pic of my 308 with a 2 x 7 Leupold mounted on modified rings. I was going to mill off the 11 MM dovetail that came on the rifle and D & T for a Weaver base but decided to try something different.
I had a pair of Millet steel rings that I wasnt using so I removed the side clamps and screws and mounted both rings inline on a piece of 1" barstock. I milled off the bottoms until they were flat then with a 3/8 endmill milled a slot on center thru the bottom of both rings, then with a dovetail cutter milled a dovetail cut that fit the base on the rifle.
Once I had the rings fit to the base I removed the bluing from the base on the rifle where the rings would sit, I used 2 coats of navel jelly applied with a small acid brush and after washing that off I cleaned those spots up with some fine emery cloth and steel wool. I then slid the rings to where I wanted them and soldered them on with some good solder using a propane torch for the heat.
I have shot about 20 rounds thru it since wounting the scope and it is rock solid. By using this methood I was able to keep the scope very low to the bore and when you throw the rifle to your shoulder it is in perfect veiw, feels really natural. If I was ever to want and change it to a weaver base I can still do that but think this is going to work fine for me.

Jed

Brithunter · « **Reply #196 on:** May 07, 2010, 12:43:27 AM »

Ok can someone please explain why they're having problems with the interal scope rail?

To me it's very simple use decent steel rings and set the rear ring back so it touches against the standing breech

this way you can even take the scope off and put it back and it remains on zero like so:-

I used highs as at one time I had a 6x40AO scope on it but it was too much so swopped it for the M8 Leupold 4x seen here. The rings are Steel Hilvers (Lynx-B-Square) and are rock solid so where is the problem

.

Ahh I have noticed one fault with the rifle. I am going to have to make a new cocking indicator pin as the plastic/nylon one is getting worn out. Probably my fault from dry firing as the pin drops lower with no cartridge in the chamber. So I will make up a brass one like they have on the older shotguns that this rifle was based on.

Another bugbear that I have is why we get such poor wood now

they used to usemuch better wood and fit it betetr too like this:-

That's on a 1970's 12B shotgun

I brought this very cheap with the idea of swopping the wood over but it seems it wouln't work especially the fore end due to a different position for the irons latch

The pale finish to the action is due to water damage as the shop it came out of caught fire.

chickenlittle · « **Reply #197 on:** May 09, 2010, 01:15:24 PM »

Quote from: Brithunter on May 07, 2010, 12:43:27 AM

Ok can someone please explain why they're having problems with the interal scope rail?

The problem is familiarity and availability of rings. It is unusual here in the US except for on .22 rimfires. So it must just be foreign and backward and it would be foolish to use it as designed.

Kmrere42 · « **Reply #198 on:** May 09, 2010, 06:07:44 PM »

HI,

I am in process of getting one in 7.62x39, Its actually a Baikal branded one, Does it have a chrome lined barrel?? and Where can I find dis-assembly instructions to clean up the trigger.

Thank you

Paul,

Brithunter · « **Reply #199 on:** May 10, 2010, 04:42:11 AM »

Page one of this thread has some photos of the action with the butstock removed. It has a long bolt through the butstock that pulls it up tight to the action.

Brithunter · « **Reply #200 on:** May 10, 2010, 04:43:32 AM »

Quote from: chickenlittle on May 09, 2010, 01:15:24 PM

Quote from: Brithunter on May 07, 2010, 12:43:27 AM
Ok can someone please explain why they're having problems with the interal scope rail?

The problem is familiarity and availability of rings. It is unusual here in the US except for on .22 rimfires. So it must just be foreign and backward and it would be foolish to use it as designed.

Ahhhhh

.............Oh well i'll just use mine as it is

.

jedman · « **Reply #201 on:** May 13, 2010, 08:38:50 AM »

I have spent two days now trying to get the trigger pull to a lighter pull and less or no creep on my SPR 18 in 308 Win. By there design I dont think you can get the creep out of them, I did get the pull weight down to a good place 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 lbs.
What I did was remove the barrel and buttstock and then removed the hammer spring, hammer, trigger, and the sear. I found the frame to have a lot of burrs and rough machine marks so I deburred and with a dremel tool polished any areas where it may improve the smoothness of the trigger / hammer assembly.
The hammer has 2 notches on it , the first is sort of a safety position, after you fire the gun the hammer rebounds to this position automaticlly and will also stop the hammer fall if the gun was to be impacted hard enough for the hammer to get past the sear without the trigger being pulled.
The full cock notch is the one I worked on to improve the weight and creep of the trigger. After taking it out and stoneing the notch at least 10 times I was getting no where.
I decided to put the hammer in my mill vice and a small 1/8 shank grinding stone in the chuck and take alot more metal off and see where it went from there. I did this several times before I noticed any improvement, then I finally had the pull weight down but still alot of creep.
I then took the sear and with a hard felt wheel and polish, polished it to a shiney surface and reassembled the action, still creepy, so I did alittle more smoothing on the hammer notch and left it at that point.
The sear in this gun is mounted on a pin thru the trigger and held under tension by a leaf spring, so by design I see to much movement required to fire this thing to ever get all the creep out of it. If this just had a hammer with a notch and the trigger itself engaged into that notch you would only have the small amount of movement required to disengage the hammer from the trigger to fire but on this Russian gun they put in another pivot poit and slack to take up before that can happen, but I will say that the safety factor that there design provides is a good thing.
But after punching the 2 pins out 30 to 40 times while working on this , I am done with it. It will just have to be creepy and live with it, now to develope a load this thing likes... hope this is eaiser than the trigger !!

Jed

Brithunter · « **Reply #202 on:** May 13, 2010, 02:16:51 PM »

Gentlemen ....................... I suppose we have better use that term loosly

, gentlemen I am in mourning

this afternoon I placed my Baikal MH18 .222 Rem in a gunshop for sale. I swopped the Hilver steel mounts for some alloy ones and took off the Leupold M8 compact 4x scope and fitted an old Rhino 4x40 (Air rifle brand form the 1970's/80's) and sighted it in quickly before putting it up for sale.

Sad to see it go but it seems the police have removed it from my shooting list ................. had not noticed this

and I need the space for another BSA sporting rifle. Oh well it was fun while it lasted.

jedman · « **Reply #203 on:** May 14, 2010, 03:04:06 AM »

Brithunter,
I am curious about the gun regulations in your country, Are you able to sell your gun to a private individule without any paper work or do you have to go through a gun dealer and notify the Government that you have sold it ?
Sorry if you have explained this before but What is your " shooting list " ? Jedman

Brithunter · « **Reply #204 on:** May 14, 2010, 04:52:24 AM »

Quote from: jedman on May 14, 2010, 03:04:06 AM

Brithunter,
I am curious about the gun regulations in your country, Are you able to sell your gun to a private individule without any paper work or do you have to go through a gun dealer and notify the Government that you have sold it ?
Sorry if you have explained this before but What is your " shooting list " ? Jedman

To legally own a section one firearm such as this Baikal MH18 you need to have a Fire Arms Certificate (FAC) which is issued by the county Police force suppsedly under guidence by the Home Office (Goverment) to buy or acquire a firearm you need an open slot, permission to buy, on your licence for that trye firearm. So if a private individual with an open slot wanted to buy it I just enter in onto their licecne then inform the Police who issued his licence that he has it and notify the Police who issued mine that I had sold it.

Selling or transfering to a dealer is easier as I just have to notify the police who issued my licence that I had disposed of it and then can then open up the slot for me to replace it. I have to send my licence in to get it removed and the new slot to buy another.

The shooting list is what this counties Police force have decided that I can shoot from my collection even though there is no basis in law for this arbitry decision it would require a court case and then the Police would probably just ignore it as they make up the rules as they go along.

Airsporter · « **Reply #205 on:** May 16, 2010, 09:43:44 AM »

Quote from: Brithunter on May 07, 2010, 12:43:27 AM

Ok can someone please explain why they're having problems with the interal scope rail?

My frustration was how close together the rings needed to be due to the short length of the rail. Not as strong, limited scope choice and eye relief. Airgun rings work okay but I couldn't find any that were really low in height. Most seem to be medium or high.

BTW, for those not familiar with the 11mm dovetail, it is not the same width as the 3/8" rimfire dovetail used here in the U.S. Most quality airguns are (at least were) Euro made where 11mm is the standard.

3/8" = 0.375 inch 11mm = 0.433 inch

Brithunter · « **Reply #206 on:** May 16, 2010, 11:46:56 AM »

Hmmm well i never noticed a problem and I took off the Leupold M8 Compact 4x scope and Hilver steel rings and slapped on some alloy air gun rings then added an old Rhino 4x40 scope and set it up with the collimeter. Shot it at 50 yards and zeroed it. Only had 10 rnds in total and put the last 6 into one target which I have left with the rifle so shot it does shoot with precision. I just must be lucky I suppose

.

Kmrere42 · « **Reply #207 on:** May 16, 2010, 01:27:35 PM »

Hi,

Range Report,

So far I have fired about 60 rounds on a 7.62x39. (sigh) My Yugo sks patterns better. Apparently the chambering job went bad. The neck area of the fired case has a distinct cut/gouge so that the case is expanded out and is not symmetrical in that area. While the lockup seems tight, 50yd grouping is about 2"wide and 4" tall. 100yd grouping is about a 6" circle.

Manufacturing date was 2007 although I purchased it new yesterday.

Anyone have experience with Remington tech support with this model..

Paul

Airsporter · « **Reply #208 on:** May 18, 2010, 04:32:41 AM »

Sounds like same issue krochus had:

"I wouldn't own another as my example came with a badly misaligned neck shoulder junction of the chamber resulting in wild inaccuracy and destroyed brass."

He rechambered to .303 British but later sold it off. 7.62x54 may be a good option too.

I would try USSG and see what they say. I think they imported the Baikals and have a service department.

http://www.ussginc.com/contactus.html

R.W.Dale · « **Reply #209 on:** May 18, 2010, 07:04:54 AM »

Quote from: Airsporter on May 18, 2010, 04:32:41 AM

Sounds like same issue krochus had:

"I wouldn't own another as my example came with a badly misaligned neck shoulder junction of the chamber resulting in wild inaccuracy and destroyed brass."

He rechambered to .303 British but later sold it off. 7.62x54 may be a good option too.

I would try USSG and see what they say. I think they imported the Baikals and have a service department.

http://www.ussginc.com/contactus.html

It does sound rather familiar doesn't it.

On the rechamber

I did mine, but I'm going to advise against anyone else doing so. These barrels are chrome lined and unbeknown to me at the time you're not supposed to ream a chrome lined bbl. It took me about 4 hours of hand reaming to cut a 303 chamber. Luckily tons of lube and the slow pace somehow prevented me from destroying a reamer.