Barrel lug shim material?

[Bill3006]

Based on the barrel fitting instructions and the use of a temporary shim, I need to shim the barrel lug about 0.003 to get rid of some side to side play in a handi rifle I bought new a year and a half ago. If I use the feeler gauge material in that thickness, I can pretty easily wrap it around a 3/8 drill bit so I'm wondering if it still needs to be annealed and softened. If I don't anneal it, is the springiness likely to pop the JB weld loose over time? Would not annealing it make it wear longer? I also noticed that ACE hardware has brass shim stock in 0.001, 0.003, and 0.005 thickness. Any advantages or disadvantages of using brass shim material? Thanks for your help!

[quickdtoo]

FWIW, I used brass shim stock on an old H&R shotgun about 40yrs ago, it hasn't seen a lot of use considering the years, but it still works fine. But for rifle barrel, I'd use steel, but the brass may work for a while, some members are even using the temp shim made of aluminum.

The last 2 barrels that I shimmed, I used material that's slightly thicker than needed and filed it to fit after the epoxy cured, getting the springy blade in the perfect position isn't as easy as one that is already formed to the pivot shape. Dunno about durability of the shim material, as I haven't shot a lot of rounds thru one to really test it yet, so that remains to be seen, but I would think the blades are at least of as good a matieral as the soft underlug, plus if you use enough epoxy to fill the void in the underlug up to the cross pin, there's more support surface with the shim in place than a barrel without a shim, so it should last longer for that reason.

Tim

[MSP Ret]

The feeler gauge material is the best way to go. Once you form it around a drill bit shank or screwdriver shaft place it on the reciever pivot pin with the opening facing forward, then gently place the barrel lug in position without displacing the shim material and close the barrel in the action. Replace the forearm and the forearm screw, You are good to go, there is really no need to epoxy or JB Weld the piece of feeler gauge material in place, it will stay put until you again remove the barrel from the action, just be sure it is in place again before you replace the barrel on the reciever. If you do not remove the barrel for a year or 2 thats just fine, you can clean your gun without removing the barrel if you want, it's just easier to remove it and if you do it causes no problems. I know some here may say it has to be replaced the same way each time, but try it before you knock it, it works just fine. The brass shim materieal is softer than the hardened steel feeler gauge material
and may compress a bit after time, especially if shooting full house loads, and may cause looseness, a simple fix though, just put new brass shim stock in position....<><....

[Bill3006]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the info. Once again, if all else fails, read the instructions (or in this case, reread)!

[quickdtoo]

Bill, I feel I should mention that H&R will replace the barrel if you send it in as long as it was originally factory fitted, just feel you should be aware that you have that option, they've done this many times in the past regardless of how old the rifle is, as long as it was made since 1987. Just give them a call and make arrangements, they might even cover your shipping cost and give you a free trigger job if you ask nice!!

Tim

[Bill3006]

Tim, that's a good thought. It's only slightly loose if you push the barrel hard to the left with the forend off, but if they would be willing to fix it, might be the way to go. The trigger is excellent the way it is, one of the big selling points in my opinion. Thanks for the advice!

[McLernon]

Why not try epoxy/aluminum mix instead of trying to fit shims. That's what I did and it worked good.

Mc