Author Topic: Help with sight removal  (Read 327 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline scratcherky

  • GBO Supporter
  • Trade Count: (7)
  • Contributor
  • *****
  • Posts: 350
Help with sight removal
« on: February 09, 2007, 05:28:48 AM »
I have a Ruger 77RS and I would like to remove the front sight and ramp. Would someone please let me know what would be involved and if the barrel is blued under the ramp? My eyes will not let me use open sights and all the front sight does is catch on things. Thanks in advance.

Don
Don & man's best friend
Still looking at the green side of sod

Offline iiranger

  • Trade Count: (0)
  • Contributor
  • ***
  • Posts: 491
Grab your schematic (owner''s handbook???"
« Reply #1 on: February 09, 2007, 05:55:32 AM »
As a rule, front sights are screwed on with a screw thru the base (or 2) into the barrel and covered by the front sight. You drift out the front sight to access the screw. Unscrew it and it is all offfff... Other way is to solder or silver solder the sight on. That takes heat. Yes, it is usually blued under the sight, but if the sight is soldered on, that gets damaged if not buffed off for the soldering.

Brownells.com usually has a "plug screw" to fill the hole so it does not collect dust and etc. luck.

Offline Nobade

  • Trade Count: (2)
  • Senior Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 1927
Re: Help with sight removal
« Reply #2 on: February 09, 2007, 01:55:09 PM »
That front sight is very difficult, but not impossible to remove. It is shrunk in place. The way to do it is clamp the sight ramp in a milling machine vise, supporting the rifle on padded blocks. Have one person hit the band under the barrel with a hard, hot flame from an acetyline torch. You want to heat the band red hot as fast as possible without heating up the barrel. As soon as it's hot, hold a chunk of wood against the end of the barrel and whack it as hard as you can with a big, heavy hammer. Make sure the torch guy catches the rifle. If you did it right, it'll pop right off. If not you'll have to cool the whole works and try again. They are not blued under the band, and the barrel will have to be polished out there and reblued. It is not something I try to do if I don't have to, but sometimes it's needed. 
"Give me a lever long enough, and a place to stand, and I'll break the lever."