Timney replacement trigers

[Norseman]

Has anyone replaced their factory trigger on a Ruger M77 MKII with a Timney trigger?  Is it simple and is it worth it?

[Hairtrigger]

There are websites that will talk you through improving a factory trigger. Getting the factory down to 3 to 4 lbs is what I want in a hunting rifle.
  I have replaced a factory trigger with a Rifle Basix for a friend. I was able to get it down to 1.5 lbs. I consider that too low for a good hunting rifle, especially if gloves are worn.

[dubber123]

My brother put a Timney in his .308, a little fitting, (nothing serious), and it came with good instructions.  The replacement made a huge difference on his gun.

[Cement Man]

From what I understand, the 77 MkII triggers are fairly easy to slick up with good results, but I liked the idea of an adjustable Timney.  I've installed 3 of them so far, and I have been very pleased with them.  I am not a gunsmith, but reasonably handy, and I did find it a pretty easy install.  There is a "shelf" or "tab" on the trigger that you might have to file down to allow the safety to rotate forward. You need a small file to do it, and you just take your time, file it a bit, and try the safety lever.  You may have to file and try several times, but you don't want to overdo it.  It's not that delicate, so you don't have to be afraid of it.  Just take your time.  You'll be able to see how much filing you might need to do.  I finished up with some pretty fine files to dress up my work, but it's not a contact point for the trigger, so you're not slicking anything up or influencing the trigger action at all.  Your just removing enough metal to allow the safety to rotate over it.  When done you try the safety and trigger to confirm everything is working right.  But - Read the instructions - I'm just trying to describe what I remember, and the instructions are the authority.
Are they worth it?  I sure think so.  I like a good trigger and the trigger is the only improvement I feel the Ruger needs.  I have a few 77's and have tested the factory triggers and found them to be in the 6.5# range, and not so terrible as people say they are.  But, I like about 3# for hunting.  I believe the Timneys are running about $75 now.  If you know a good smith, you can probably get a good trigger job for that or less - so that is another option, along with cleaning it up yourself.  I find that I really don't adjust mine much, if at all, after I set them originally - but it's nice to know that I can. They are very easy to adjust.  I always keep the original triggers - maybe I'd reinstall it if I ever got rid of one of my Rugers - but so far they are keepers. 

[3DTESTIFY]

Hairtrigger & Cement Man are correct, if it is a large game hunting rifle, then 3 lbs. or more of pull weight is ideal. My Ruger 77RL had the factory trigger sweetened to 3.5 lbs by a gunsmith for less than half the cost of a replacement trigger. I don't need an adjustable trigger on my hunting rig since I prefer a consistant pull weight each time the trigger is squeezed.

[Cement Man]

Here's a coincidence.  I just got e-mailed Midway's sale flier this morning.  The Ruger Timney is on sale $74.99 - Read the reviews on the Timney.  Very expalnatory.  I see a lot of folks use the Dremels to reduce the tab.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=285329&eblastid=21520071&custnum=100116753&utm_source=timneytrigger&utm_medium=eblast

[Hairtrigger]

So why would you spend $75 on a trigger that needs help with a Dremmel when you can take the dremmel to the factory trigger?
http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/ruger77trigger.html

[Cement Man]

Hairtrigger,
I certainly don't think there is anything at all wrong with doing the factory trigger yourself as you suggest. Just do it right.  Someday, I might try that myself, save some $$ and be proud of my accomplishment.
BTW, the Dremel tool (or file) isn't used to slick up the Timney - it is only used to relieve a small area allowing the safety to clear and function correctly.
But why would I spend $75?
1.  I like Timney triggers.  I like the results I have gotten with them.
2.  I haven't done the trigger job myslf yet and I am familiar with doing the Timney.  Just haven't had the time or inclination to look into doing a factory trigger myself yet.
3.  The Timney is adjustable.  I like that option, even if I haven't used it much.
4.  Because if I ever need to send the gun ito Ruger, I can reinstall the factory trigger and they won't replace it.  I have seen where they would restore modified triggers to original when the firearm has been sent in for service.  I sent in a Blackhawk revolver with lighter trigger springs for a cosmetic warranty issue.  It came back to me with factory spec springs.
5.  Because I want to.
6.  Because I can.
That's why they make red cars and green ones and.................   I'm glad we have choices to discuss, and I don't think any of them are wrong, as long as they are safe.

[Hairtrigger]

You know I have not put much thought to it. Until last year we had a local gunsmith that would make a trigger on any decent rifle down to as low as 2lbs for $15. He got my Mini-14 to 3.5lbs for $20.
That gunsmith is no longer an option, in the last year I have played with a couple of triggers on guns that are new to me but not on varmint rifles.
I may have to consider aftermarket triggers in the future.

[DLEB]

Just got finished with reworking the factory trigger on my Ruger M77 MKII . Went from about 5 1/4# to 3 1/2#. I have replaced some triggers with aftermarket, but this was my first experience with reworking a factory trigger. Real easy.