reward.....we're talkin' traditional so I'm gonna talk......traditional. You're correct, no petroleum products for lube. I've never used Ballistol but have never heard anything bad about it. I use "traditional" stuff. My lube is beeswax and beef, mutton or deer tallow or non petroleum oil that was available in the late 1700's. Olive oil, castor oil and I've read of some using sweet oil. The ratio is usually 50/50, beeswax to whatever. It works as good or better than most stuff you'll pay more money for. Lots of folks use and like Wonderlube/Bore Butter. I used it for quite a few years and found it satisfactory. Biggest reason I switched was just to make a change......you know, livin' life on the edge an' all. Swithcin' lubes is a pretty big deal... Wonderlube can be bought at most gun shops I know of. Lube does effect the load in a rifle. Some lubes to a greater extent than others. If you're plinking or shooting a match where your shots come fairly quick good ol' spit is hard to beat. A liquid lube is good for matches and plinking but I prefer grease type lubes for hunting. I have never used pre-lubed patches so can't speak as to them. I don't see why they wouldn't be just as good given that you find the right thickness. The only conicals I shoot are fired from my Shiloh Sharps or my double rifles. Don't see any need for them in a muzzleloader. They aren't AS traditional as a PRB, don't kill deer any quicker and I doubt Boone ever used them.
I've used boiling water to clean my rifles for 30 years. That too has been working quite well for a few centuries.
Clean and dry is good for a barrel. However, some rifles like to have a fouling shot. Some like to be wiped between each round and some don't. That often depends on how heavy a charge you're shooting. The volume of the powder charge often makes a difference as to how quick the barrel fouls. Heavier charges foul more.....wow, wasn't that a bolt of brilliance on my part....hehe.
Once you gather the basics and begin shooting the rifle you'll figure it out. Given your rifle experience you should have it shooting quite well rather quickely. If the rifle hasn't been fired much you should see a difference in how "slick" the barrel is after a couple hundred rounds. It also won't foul as much or as quickly. Don't get in a hurry. Let the rifle tell you what it wants. As another poster said start with 40-50 grs. and work up from there. Get used to the rifle and see what it likes. Traditional ain't about "hurry up!", it's about knowledge, pleasure, satisfaction and a slower pace. A man needs to take time to smell the sulphur, ya know!
I'd recommend CCI or RWS caps.
My match/plinking/reenacting load for my 45 is 40 grs. Fffg Scheutzen and my hunting load is 70 grs. of the same powder. Nuthin' but black for me. The fake stuff is just that, fake. Often times not as accurate and always harder to ignite and it will still rust your bore if not cleaned. However.......it's also easier to lay your hands on than the real thing. I'd still recommend you find the real stuff. There is a decided difference.
Some stuff I can find locally. A lot of it comes from Traders Row at events and I order my powder by the case. Usually from Coonies in Hobbs, New Mexico but the last case came from Upper Missouri Traders in Crofton, Nebraska. I don't shoot much caplock these days but when I did I bought my caps in bulk also. We always have some kind of scrap cotton material laying around that is of suitable thickness for my patching. I cast my own balls and have for as long as I've been shooting a muzzleloader. Several years ago I picked up 500+ lbs. of lead for 20 cents a lb. I believe I still have a life time supply.
Good luck and keep us informed as to your progress.......inquiring minds want to know!
Vic
