Powderkeg's Treatise on Drilling

[cncswiss1]

power steering pumps make nice coolant pumps. use a coffee filter to filter out chips in the catch basket under the part... fopr what it's worth in my humble opinion the finish will be better with straight oil instead of water soluable... kerosene and 30 weight 50/50 works, tap oil for black pipes works,really really  old school water soluable uses condensed milk!
or just snag some hangsterfers hardcut ng....

[Tropico]

I really had no idea how this drill bit was going to be built and then be able to lubricate. Thats fantastic.

[Powder keg]

I finally started feeling better. Today was a wonderful day!!! I got lots done. Here is the swivel coupler bored for some little seals.



I then set it up in my mill and drilled and tapped a hole for the pipe fitting.



Here is the completed drill. I'll be testing her out very soon.

[Powder keg]

On these next barrels I want the bottom of the bore to be round. I'm building a couple of spade bits to do this. Here is what the blank looks like. I now have to cut the blank in two and set them up on my rotary table. These are machined from O-1 tool steel. I'll heat treat them with a torch when I'm done.

[Cat Whisperer]

Here is my E-bay / Sandvik spade drill:

Spade drill & powder chamber drill
New:


Rounded corners for the bottom of the bore (leaving pointed center to center the powder chamber):


connection for through-hole lubrication:


Drill for powder chamber (1/2" drill bit in a 3/4" diameter x 30 inches long extension):

[GGaskill]

Any more to report on this project?

[Powder keg]

Been a while since a report on this project. Today I got the bit made. I'll post some pictures tonight. I still have to heat treat the blade.

Sorry for the delay, Wes

[Powder keg]

Here is the bit I came up with. I set the blanks up on my rotary table and cut the chip breaker into the cutting edge of the blade. I should have made the blank about an 1/8" longer but it turned out OK. Here is a picture of the blank on my rotary table.


I then cut the blank in two and then ground the shape buy hand. I think It turned out pretty good.


A while back I hired an older gentleman that has been a machinist for more than fifty years. I have been learning a bunch from him. We have been making bits from O-1 tool steel and heat treating them with a torch. I'll treat this bit and it will be ready to go.

[Victor3]

 Cool project. I hope you don't mind some suggestions that may be helpful - I've done some deep hole drilling myself...

 One thing I would suggest is that you bore your hole (Using a long boring bar in the tool post) as deep as you can go before you start drilling. This eliminates some of the inherent inaccuracy of the drilling operation right off the bat.

 Also, you might consider adding a bronze bushing secured with set screws a few inches back from the cutting insert as a drill guide. This bushing will need large flats or slots milled on the OD so that only three fairly small areas of the bushing will contact the bore in order to allow chips and coolant to flush past it. Spade drills tend to walk a bit and a guide bushing helps keep them on "the straight and narrow."

 Be sure to indicate your bar concentric at the chuck, the steady rest (if you use one) and at the end of the headstock opposite the chuck if the bar is sticking out that far. You want the OD as straight as you can get it. Make a bushing that fits in the far end of the spindle bore to hold it if need be.

 One thing that will kill the accuracy of a deep-drilled hole on a lathe is having the tailstock out of alignment - Be sure to use a test bar or other method to check and adjust it before you start.

 Go Slooooooow on the infeed - Haste will indeed make waste in this situation. You will magnify any inaccuracy present in the machine, tool geometry or setup by forcing the drill into the material too rapidly.

 Here's a website that might give you some related food for thought about what you're working on.

http://www.gundrillingsolutions.com/Pages/home.html


 Now for my 'wet blanket' input - Having a bar gundrilled isn't all that expensive...

[Powder keg]

Thanks Victor3,

I'm always open to suggestions. I like the bronze insert idea. I might try it. I tend to keep everything lined up pretty good, so that shouldn't be to much of a problem.

I also will try boring a section first. I I like that idea.

Thanks again, Wes

[Cat Whisperer]

Two things I note from the picture that I like.

1. It looks like a fixture plate that automatically is installed centered  (may not be but I like the idea) on the rotary table that has a nest/pocket/locating-pin to hold the work in registration.

2. I llike your notes on the job-at-hand on the fixture.

[Powder keg]

The plate is a sacrificial chunk of aluminum, or a fixture plate ) I locate the rotary table then the center of the aluminum plate. Sharpies are my friend. I use them all the time when I'm working. The bolts actually are holding the piece where I want it.

Hey Cat, Check your PM's

[smokemjoe]

 Make a drill like for deep hole drilling for gun barrels, Its like a round piece of tool steel, 1/4 is milled flat along the side, with like a 30 degree bit nose. The chips are like a piece of paper comming out.

[Frank46]

Don't know how long they last, but have you ever given thought to using one of the automotive transmission filters?. They are shaped somewhat like a regular gas filter but have a magnet inside to pick up any metalic chips.
You could install it on the suction side of your oil pump. Just a suggestion. Frank