Author Topic: removing striped scope mount screw (Read 6465 times)

ONE HOLE 4570 · « **on:** February 26, 2007, 04:08:03 PM »

Got a new to me barrel & was going to remove the rail. Got 2 screws out the 3rd's head is stripped
Whats the easiest way to remove it without having to retap a hole

handirifle · « **Reply #1 on:** February 26, 2007, 04:14:34 PM »

Most likely you'll have to place it in a vice and use a drillpress to drill out/off the screw head, then once the scope rail is removed, use pliers or vice grips to remove the screw. Make sure to leave enough of the screw exposed to get ahold of.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #2 on:** February 26, 2007, 04:25:59 PM »

The best thing to do to start with is heat the screws with a soldering iron or mini torch to soften the thread locker that H&R uses, it's tuff stuff, if you don't, you can just about guarantee a stripped head or three!!. I've used easy outs that will fit in the stripped socket head before, you'll have to get one that is just a bit bigger than the socket and cut it off so it fits tight in the socket, much easier than drilling it out cuz it removed the entire screw, not just the head.

Tim

http://toolprice.com/product/1218A

RonO777 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 26, 2007, 04:40:01 PM »

I'll tell you how I remove striped allen head screws at work.
first I would lock the barell in a vice. Then get a roll punch that is large enough to cover the screw. Take the punch an a hammer and hit the screw on the head. What your doing is two things the first is your giving the threads a good shock, the 2nd is you collasping the allen down. Take a good allen wrench and drive it into the allen screw. You should be able to just twist the screw right out.

Ron

Hazard · « **Reply #4 on:** February 26, 2007, 08:56:12 PM »

another thing you may consider trying is buying some GOOD left handed drill bilts start with a small one and work out to larger sized ones, make sure u get a good Center punch and get a good center, sometimes youll get lucky and the left handed bit will catch and pull the screw right out, thats what i use at work to remove stubborn broken exhaust manifold bolts on diesel truck engines, i would assume it would work here, i would heat it up a little first then knock it with the center punch that should help to break it loose, if you would like me to explain in a little more detail i would be glad to help.

good luck

adam

jpsmith1 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 27, 2007, 02:11:03 AM »

Don't forget to try an easy-out. I'm not sure about screw size, but I've removed screws as small as #4 and #6 with a small easyout. Drill into the screw with the appropriate sized bit, lefties are nice, but not always needed. Heat as mentioned if there is a threadlocker present and use the easy-out. Screw comes out in one piece, unless the easy-out breaks.

PartsMan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 27, 2007, 03:40:21 AM »

I wish you guys wouldn't talk about that.

My dealer stripped two screws in one of my barrels.
I have been hopeing I never have to take it off. $:-\$

quickdtoo · « **Reply #7 on:** March 11, 2007, 10:31:45 AM »

I pulled a base off an Ultra today to remount it, even after heating and whacking the screws, the hex socket stripped out on one of em, couldn't find my custom ezout that I used last time

, so I checked some of my 3/8" and ¼" drive T-15 torx head tools, one of em has more taper to it, and appeared it would be a tight fit in the hex head screw, tapped it into the screw a couple times, put a ratchet on the torx socket and the screw came right out!!

Tim

ONE HOLE 4570 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 11, 2007, 02:48:34 PM »

I'll remember that one I just drilled the head off & used vicegrips to twist it out

Roger_Dailey · « **Reply #9 on:** March 11, 2007, 03:14:24 PM »

Quote from: ONE HOLE 4570 on February 26, 2007, 04:08:03 PM

Got a new to me barrel & was going to remove the rail. Got 2 screws out the 3rd's head is stripped
Whats the easiest way to remove it without having to retap a hole

I have to deal with stripped head allen head screws all the time. One of my most reliable methods is to drive a torx (star) bit into the stripped head. The "fins" on the torx bit will broach into the stripped allen head and get a good bite. Someone mentioned using heat on the thread locker, that's a very good technique.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #10 on:** March 22, 2007, 06:56:04 PM »

For anyone that wants to replace the hex head screws with T-10 torx head screws, Brownell's sells them by the dozen, their part number is 080-924-468, 6-48 x¼". They're about $5 a dozen plus $4.25 shipping.

Tim

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=18653&s=3585

joshco84 · « **Reply #11 on:** March 22, 2007, 07:47:03 PM »

my personal favorite for this is the torx as mentioned before, or sometimes a metric allen is just a hair bigger and can be driven in. if these wont take it straight out, use the heat as mentioned, and make sure the bit is not in the screw head while heating. it will weaken it and it will break. if these will not work, Mac tools makes the best easy out ever. it is twisted flutes like a regular easy out, but it is only like a 1/2 inch long, and takes a wrench or socket. kind of hard to explain, but works excellent.

josh

ironglow · « **Reply #12 on:** March 23, 2007, 01:36:57 AM »

Hey Guys...

There is some great info here..

Right at the get-go, I learned good info on how to free up threadlocker..then various removal techniques from guys that do stuff like that for a living..

There's no substitute for picking the brains of experience ! This info ought to be combined into a sticky...

quickdtoo · « **Reply #13 on:** March 23, 2007, 05:06:54 AM »

It's already in the FAQs!

montveil · « **Reply #14 on:** March 24, 2007, 03:14:19 AM »

A TRick I have used when I donot have a easy out or not the right size. Use the heating, shocking and drilling as noted. I then take the handle end of a small file and grind it to a sharp slightly tapered edges, Tap it into the screw hole and gently back out the screw.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #15 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:02:58 AM »

I was going over my 25-06 and 280 barrels tonight and found that the base was loose on the 25-06!! I must have either not loc-tited it down. or had some oil in the hole so the loc-tite didn't work properly. So I checked the 280, its center screw was all buggered up. (Stripped) SO, I don't want the next guy to buy a barrel with this so I removed the screw and reinstalled the base.

I have gotten a few PM's questioning scope mounting and thought I would document the process for anyone who hasn't had to deal with this. Maybe save someone some bucks @ the gunsmith.

Here is the tools I used. You will need a vice to hold the barrel. A Dremel tool and a fiber wheel to cut steel. A couple screw drivers, I soldering iron and a drill with drill bits.
Once removed you will need loc-tite blue, purple or clear nail polish. You can use red, but its more permanent and can lead to the problem I am outlining here.

The soldering iron is a great tool to break the bond of any loc-tite. Just heat the iron up and hold it against the screw head for 30-90 seconds and remove the screw. The heat will soften the bond and allow the screws removal. Be careful, it will likely be hot. This worked perfectly for two of the screws but the middle one was stubborn and stripped out.

First thing, get the barrel off the receiver and head for your vice. Mount the barrel in the vice by pinching the lug under the barrel. Being careful not to crush the extractor/ejector cross pin.

Get your drill and select a bit the closely matches the head of the screw. Slowly drill the head off the screw. Drill only enough to allow the base to come off the barrel. Done properly you will only sacrifice the buggered screws.

Remove the base and set aside.

Get your dremel tool and carefully cut a single slot in the center of the screw stud, that remains in the barrel. Then insert a screw driver and remove screw. If your careful you will still have a perfect base and barrel threads, ready to remount the base and scope.

To remount the base, I like either blue or red loc-tite. red is reserved for the hardest recoiling calibers. Blue or Purple is really all that's needed. Replacement screws can be found a numerous online suppliers as well as your local gun shoppe.

Put the base on the barrel in approximate position and install the center screw a couple turns. this is only to "locate" holes. Now put another screw on your wrench and add a drop of loc-tite to its threads. Install the screw but do not snug it up just yet. Repeat this for the next two screws. Allow it to set up for at least 24 hours until you shoot it, longer is better.

I also found a new base that I hadn't herd of before. It's marketed as being for the Sidekick and Huntsman black powder rifles. But we all know that the bases are drilled identical for all current H&R/NEF barrels.

I hope this helps you guys next time you get a bad screw.

CW

Oldshooter · « **Reply #16 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:20:54 AM »

Thanks CW that is a great post for us not a gunsmith guys.

Very informative and good camera work.

Again thanks!

Badnews Bob · « **Reply #17 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:24:29 AM »

Hey CW is that scope rail much taller than a standard one, It looks to be in the pictures. That would be good if you already had rings but needed a taller mount.

BTW where do you get them at I think I want one.

cwlongshot · « **Reply #18 on:** March 11, 2009, 09:29:28 AM »

Quote from: Badnews Bob on March 11, 2009, 09:24:29 AM

Hey CW is that scope rail much taller than a standard one, It looks to be in the pictures. That would be good if you already had rings but needed a taller mount.

BTW where do you get them at I think I want one.

Yes it is taller, but not by a whole bunch, maybe 1/8". I like the idea as many of us have problems with ring height and (read Bushnell trophy scopes) this adds another variable and more height options.
I got that one at Cabela's but maybe a web search with the name would turn up other sources too!!

CW

quickdtoo · « **Reply #19 on:** March 11, 2009, 10:24:59 AM »

Great pics and details CW, it's merged with the existing thread in the FAQs.

Thanks,

Tim