Factory slide spring poundage is usually 16. After I do a reliability tune, I usually install an 18LB spring unless requested not to. The 18 sends the slide back into battery slightly faster, locks up better, and dampens recoil somewhat. A limp wrist usually results in a fail to feed but, extraction is usually not an issue. This is common in polymer frame pistols such as the Glock 17 in 9mm, and a few other models chamber in minor caliburs. Before anyone starts yellin how reliable their Glock 17 is, I spent 19 years on a Police Range as an instructor, and I never met one I couldn't intentionally jam using a limp wrist. I'm not tryin to insult your weapons, it's just a fact I ran across real time.
Now back to the 1911. Like they said, grease the rails. You can pay for expensive greases or use lithium grease, both are as good as the other, and many times the same indifferent packages. Same on disconnecter. Take note whether it jams using all you magazines or just one. Ejection most times is traced to a bad magazine or possibly a mis-shaped extractor. An auto pistol should not be carried for protection until it is capable of firing 200 rounds consecutively without a malfunction. And I don't mean cleaning it every fifty rounds or so. Also remember, revolvers wear and go out of time, while auto pistols shoot in, and get better. A lighter recoil spring will only batter the frame, so leave the factory in for about 800 rounds, and then change. I use Wilson 18 lb springs and change them and the recoil buffer out at about 1000 rds. Some don't like buffers and claim they cause jams. If it does, its the pistol, not the buffer. Over time it will save the receiver, and takes some of the shock out of the frame during cycling.
