NEF Trigger ?

[MarlinMan]

Hey guys,can anything be done to the trigger on an NEF sportster .17 HMR?
Would like to hear some "how to's" to get a lighter trigger pull.

[PartsMan]

Yes and it is pretty simple.
Go to the NEF/H&R centerfire forum and look in FAQs and Help sticky.
It is one of the first topics.
There is a lot of info there so you will have to scroll down to it.
Read both sets of instructions and if your not sure a gunsmith can do it.
Most of that info will apply to your gun anyway.

[flitz]

lightened mine up with graghite powder

[Slowhanddd]

Hey Flitz.Can you elaborate a little on the graphite powder?Thanks,Dave

[BANG_OW]

It goes FFIIITZZZ when you squeeze it!

[Slowhanddd]

 ::)Always the comedian.I really would like to know more about using the graphite on the trigger.Dave

[ken2222]

Quick or Mac might tell ya....try PMing them.....heard something about " WD-40"......

[quickdtoo]

I know nothing of using WD40, I do regular trigger jobs on my Handis, a 3lb trigger is easy to do, including fitting and installing a heavy latch spring,  30 minutes, start to finish, no need to do the graphite thing, that's gotta be messy! Mac sends his in to H&R for them to do em free, plus shipping and time away from home.

Tim

[Russ Jerome]

Using the info from the sticky in the rifle area I finished my trigger in a couple of evenings,
could have been completed in a single night but I got a little bling/blingy with my trigger

The result was just over 2#4oz with a perfectly smooth pull. My groups were outstanding
prior to the trigger work, had to turn my scope 2 clicks left to counter my 3# reduction in
pull. My son's reaction at the range was "wow this trigger is cool".

If you feel confident in trying trigger work yourself here is a newbie's thoughts after doing
a handi's trigger: The roll pins are not nearly as hard to remove as the links would have you
believe (in my case, 17hm2 sport). The inner mechanics are by far easier than any gun I have
ever modified (maybe 7 trigger jobs myself). With a home made slave pin (made from a 3/16"
aluminum rivet) you can teardown, polish, assemble and retest in a couple minutes.

Russ
http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/

[jwm]

I forget where I first read this tip, but I've tried it on a few of my H&R rifles with good results.  I hope that I won't find out from someone with more experience than me that I've now done permanent damage to my guns!

If you dry-fire the gun 20 or 30 times while applying pressure to the back of the hammer, the trigger pull winds up being lightened a bit and smoothed out quite a bit.  Heavy pressure is not required, just 10 or 15 pounds applied with the thumb of the shooting hand, pushing forward on the hammer spur.  Not a high-tech procedure, and not going to give you a match-grade trigger, but a cheap (free!) and quick job that allows for a noticeable improvement.

Feel free to let me know if I've trashed my guns.

John

[quickdtoo]

I've tried that on several of my frames, ML McPherson explains how to do it in the Handirifle section of his book, "Accurizing the Factory Rifle", it has yet to work with any reasonable change in trigger weight as tested with a Lyman digital scale. What it can do is break the sear notch off the hammer as it has to more than one person here, then you'll be sending your frame to H&R for repair, or doing an actual trigger hone when you replace the hammer, which  isn't hard and will yield a very nice trigger for not much time and effort. 

Tim

[jwm]

Yes!!  That is where I read this.  I remember thinking that it was too good to be true, and now I see that it is.  I assume that the two I did this to, since they survived the procedure, are still safe to shoot?  Thanks for the heads-up.  I've messed up enough guns in the past that I don't need to find a new way to do it again.

John

[quickdtoo]

You'll know if it hurt them, it won't stay cocked if it breaks. That procedure may work on older rifles, the hammers weren't as hard as current production hammers are. I've been working with Topper 158 hammers recently, drilling and installing Winchester M94 hammer extensions, they don't need to be annealed to drill, but a current production H&R/NEF hammer can't be touched with a drill until it's annealed, they're too hard. That may explain why the sear notch might break using McPherson's technique on late models, he wrote that about 8-10yrs ago.

Tim