Sir, an easy way to see if it is the lube is to look under the extractor when you eject your cases. The area under it will be moist/wet with the oil. Several brands of the lubes with synthetic additives will move under pressure better than some of the old machine oils. Even the old oils can work their way out from under the extractor into the chambers. Bottle neck and tapered cases in revolvers do not grip the chamber walls as well as straight wall cases. That is why even a little lube or oil can cause setback. When the Jet came out years ago, people that shot it pulled their hair out trying to figure out why the cylinders would lock up, I know, I was one of them. That is why I load and shoot the bottle neck revolvers different. I use a water base case lube made by Lee to resize, and then make sure they are clean after reloading. I use the Lee crimp die, and crimp the bullets. On the Hornet, and most Bee loads I use pistol primers, these are not max loads, and the pistol primers usually give less spread on these two rounds when you shoot them over the chrony. The Bee and Hornet are fun to hunt with out of a revolver, keep playing with it and find what works best for you and your gun. Not all of these revolvers are alike, one of the guys I shoot with some has a 218 Bee tracker that seems to shoot anything. He is not one to ever clean anything until it just will not function, go figure? I usually shoot 50 to 150 rounds when I'm shooting the bee or hornet, and do not have to clean them while I'm shooting. I shot the Bee over 200 times several trips with out cleaning until after I got home. I traded my bee off for a big bore that I wanted more, should have just bought it and had both.
