Author Topic: best 1911 for around $500.00 (Read 21245 times)

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #90 on:** December 05, 2007, 04:52:29 AM »

well seem the problem is fixed I shot 100 rounds yesterday and no problems slide is smooth as a baby butt
I find a excellent load 231 Winchester powder 5.1 grains under 200 grain SWC
12 yard target 2 hand hold unsupported 5 shots in one hole
OAL 1.232 I thought I mossed the target after punching in the first hole nope all rounds one big hole
Let see a rear new sight may be on my mind (adjustable) I find with the 3 dot white combat style I must use a dead center aim point
I would like a 6 o clock hold just under the bull
well this will be my last post I am on my way to the hosiptal for neck surgery should be around 1:30 pm
guys whish me luck I wish I could use some J@B bore paste on the disck in my neck to loosen them up from disck degenration C5 threw C7 have to be repaired
Hope to post here on thursday night Doctor say only 1 day in the hosiptal WILL SEE $:-\$ AT 61 YEARS OLD NOW AND NEVER BEEN IN A HOSIPTAL SEEM ALWAYS A FIRST TIME

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #91 on:** December 05, 2007, 04:59:56 AM »

it was rock river arms , nib ! looked ok ?

poncaguy · « **Reply #92 on:** December 05, 2007, 05:35:14 AM »

I have a Rock Island Armory (RIA) 38 Super that I really like, very accurate. Had to have gunsmith polish ramp and extractor a little, hasn't missed a beat since then. Was $385 out the door. I plan on getting a 45 RIA Tactical next.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #93 on:** December 05, 2007, 06:19:41 AM »

got to wonder why the others are sooooo high ? they always blame labor ! and to a point that may cause some cost but not all

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #94 on:** February 11, 2008, 12:51:03 AM »

The neck surgery seem to be going well going a little batty sitting in the house and long winter outside.I did decide to change the rear sight on the SA 1911 to a adjustable one.I went with a TPU SERIES it nice when parts fit right:the sight is a 2 dot white rear sight to match the white dot on the front blade.
I also fitted a new FLAT MSH from a KIMBER to the frame I think I will end up going with:The new flat MSH is not in the picture but sit on the sidelines until I set up the rear sight on the gun
I also installed a new shock buff Ed BROWN always wanted to see if there is any difference in using them?
also installed a mag: butt plate seem I some how always grap a piece of skin of my hand

Davemuzz · « **Reply #95 on:** February 11, 2008, 02:30:11 AM »

LW,

I started using shock buff's about 2 years ago in my Springer during our local club's steel shoots. I was questioning there "use" when I installed 'em, but after the first shoot I liked 'em. They in fact do "cushion" the blow. However, if your using the gun as a carry and depending on it in that kind of situation, I probably would not install 'em.

MHO

Dave

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #96 on:** February 17, 2008, 01:05:51 PM »

I got to test the new Ed Brown shock buff and I can say with 200 grain SWC you can feel the difference as the slide has a cusion to it and you can feel the lighter recoil.I found I like the new sights but still I had it adjusted up all the way and still had to hold a little up from the bottom of the target for X ring group: I did find the sight picture is a great improvement because the sight are closer to my eye.I did notice the rear sight does hang over the rear slide making a tad harder to remove the firing pin stop but no real problem.I also found the new extractor work better then the original from springer : I found the shell would drop on the shooting table after hitting the wall in the shooting booth the old SA extractor would eject the brass more to the rear of the slide about 5 o clock .I would find the brass on the floor
The new extractor ejects more like 3 o clock.
The last upgrade I did install to day went to a flat serrated MSH from Kimber.

Davemuzz · « **Reply #97 on:** February 17, 2008, 02:39:23 PM »

LW,

All sounds good! Load 'em up and shoot 'em! Congrats.

Dave

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #98 on:** February 18, 2008, 04:44:48 AM »

are shock buffers good for a carry gun ?

Davemuzz · « **Reply #99 on:** February 18, 2008, 06:22:27 AM »

Quote from: SHOOTALL on February 18, 2008, 04:44:48 AM

are shock buffers good for a carry gun ?

SA, from everything I've read on this subject, no. I don't carry a 1911, but the guys who carry 'em and write about 'em state that they don't like shock buffs in their carry piece because if you have one come apart (and they are just plastic and do come apart....I have had 'em come apart in mine) then you have this hunk of stuff in your gun that can very well jam it up and a most inopportune time....like when your life is at steak.

Then there are others who argue that if you change 'em often, the likely hood of that happening is very low. I think if I were carrying a 1911, for the softing of the recoil that it does.....I'd go without the buffs. I'm quite sure adrenaline would more than take over where shock buffs leave off.

MHO

Dave

rbwillnj · « **Reply #100 on:** February 18, 2008, 11:28:59 AM »

The Problem with Shok Buffs on a Carry Gun (or IDPA or IPSC)

The 1911 is designed so that after loading a new magazine, if you pull the slide all the way back, the shape of the little notch on the side of the slide will force the slide stop down, so that when you release the slide it will go forward. If you have a shok buff installed, you generally can't pull the slide back far enough for that feature to work.

torpedoman · « **Reply #101 on:** March 07, 2008, 07:09:02 PM »

rock island arms the best and for the change you have left you can have it outfitted with good sights

richardoldfield · « **Reply #102 on:** April 04, 2008, 04:15:18 AM »

I doubt many will find Springer Mil Specs for $500 in today's market. What do I recommend? The RIA is the current successor to the Norinco, they are great guns for the money. Is it that good? YOU BETCHA! Regards, Richard

1911crazy · « **Reply #103 on:** May 02, 2008, 06:07:48 AM »

Sticky slide??? Lube the frame rails and slide grooves and recoil spring up with moly. Work it in and wipe off the excess. Just a little will do and it will seem tight at first till you work it in by hand. Don't over lube it. Oil is for the bores....

My local dealer did have the Auto-Ordnance Army WW2 copy 1911a1 for $449 the last time i looked. My AO is flawless.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #104 on:** May 02, 2008, 06:17:09 AM »

i agree on the buffer , nothing extra in mine ,bill Wilson would use a Norinco frame to build a gun back in the 80's that alone says something , if i remember there were like 3 brands he used .

1911crazy · « **Reply #105 on:** May 02, 2008, 06:40:48 AM »

My norinco 1911a1 in 45acp is the best 1911 I have ever owned and very accurate too. Its reliable and dependable just like my Auto-Ordnance army 1911a1 is.

I added the full length guide rod with the #18 recoil spring. The added weight in the front keeps the muzzle jump down and the extra spring pressure so it doesn't over cycle, it cuts down on the cycle timing too. Then i use moly for the lube.

1911crazy · « **Reply #106 on:** May 02, 2008, 06:45:24 AM »

Quote from: 1911crazy on May 02, 2008, 06:40:48 AM

My norinco 1911a1 in 45acp is the best 1911 I have ever owned and very accurate too. Its reliable and dependable just like my Auto-Ordnance army 1911a1 is. A norinco 1911a1 has a forged steel frame.

I added the full length guide rod with the #18 recoil spring. The added weight in the front keeps the muzzle jump down and the extra spring pressure so it doesn't over cycle, it cuts down on the cycle timing too. Then i use moly for the lube.

SharonAnne · « **Reply #107 on:** May 18, 2008, 07:55:03 PM »

re:shockbuffs. I use shockbuffs as an indicator of recoil spring 'wear'. when the slide STARTS to cut the buff I change the buff and recoil spring

1911crazy · « **Reply #108 on:** May 26, 2008, 05:42:30 AM »

I'm no competition shooter but the biggest change in my 1911's is going to the stronger 18# recoil spring. It and the full length guide rod has my recoil like 2" of muzzle movement. And the guns cycle timing is so fast I can put two rounds very quickly into the same spot. I think there is a lot of overtravel when the recoil spring is wornout or too weak. Thats wasted time for sure.

I'm a machine builder/engineering tech by trade and my thoughts about using buffers is why? I like the thought of using a stronger recoil spring so the slide won't bottom out or over travel. When the slide hits the buffer thats more recoil right?

SharonAnne · « **Reply #109 on:** May 26, 2008, 08:33:56 AM »

yes Craz. When the slide hits the shock buff you feel more recoil and muzzle jump. However, in something like my 9x23 Para comp gun, the muzzle jump and recoil are so slight that even with the slide lightly (at first) striking the shock buff I don't see any change. You will however, see the beginnings of cut marks on the shock buff.

Savage · « **Reply #110 on:** May 27, 2008, 03:41:33 AM »

The thing about shock buffs is they work well in some guns and not so well in others. They MIGHT cause the slide to stop short enough of full travel to cause function problems. I have not experienced that problem in any of my guns. Like SA said, they are a good indicator of recoil spring fatigue, which is important in a game gun that gets thousands of rounds thru it in short order. I have never had a shock buff beaten to pieces in one of my guns. Mine get far too much attention for that. Doesn't cost much to try them out in your guns. They are no substitute for fresh springs, but work quite well when used with the proper weight springs.
Savage

SharonAnne · « **Reply #111 on:** May 27, 2008, 02:53:31 PM »

I HAVE had a shock buff go to pieces. I ignored the cutting into the buff and shot it until it came apart. Yes, it WILL jam your pistol. But, you have to really ignore your pistol maintainance for it to get so bad. Another problem can sneak up. I had some really hard wilson buffs. They did not cut but they did SWELL. I had mystery malfunctions with my .45. Only when I compared the old buff to a new one did I find the problem. ALWAYS change the buff when you change the recoil spring.

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #112 on:** June 10, 2008, 02:45:38 PM »

I finally had to readjust the spring sear leafs tension:I was out shooting Sat: and found 2 rounds out of 50 rounds that the hammer failed to stay in the cock position seem it followed the slide down.
I did strip the gun and found the center leaf had as little as 3oz
I did re-adjust to 8 oz and and had also needed a little more tension on the sear leaf also.
I did go threw the safety check and all is back in working order
I re-check with the rcbs trigger gauge and it back to 2 1/2 pounds (RANGE GUN ONLY)

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #113 on:** June 14, 2008, 11:31:23 AM »

I did range test it to day the problem fixed 100 rounds and the hammer cocked each time the slide went forward

SharonAnne · « **Reply #114 on:** June 16, 2008, 08:12:48 AM »

I will now display my ignorance. How do you check the leaf spring tension and where do I find the specs for the individual leaves?

lonewolf5348 · « **Reply #115 on:** June 16, 2008, 09:21:23 AM »

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/General/DisplayPDF.aspx?f=bt002005.pdf

teddy12b · « **Reply #116 on:** June 16, 2008, 09:24:06 AM »

I saw a used Armscor Rock Island 1911 45 for $300 a couple weeks ago. I held it and fooled with it a little bit and was impressed with the quality for the price. I've also seen used springfield loaded 1911's got for under 600-700 on gunbroker.com.

SharonAnne · « **Reply #117 on:** June 20, 2008, 09:01:35 AM »

Lonewolf, thank you. an excellent write up!!!

DCRthe3rd · « **Reply #118 on:** June 20, 2008, 03:33:39 PM »

Quote from: teddy12b on June 16, 2008, 09:24:06 AM

I saw a used Armscor Rock Island 1911 45 for $300 a couple weeks ago. I held it and fooled with it a little bit and was impressed with the quality for the price. I've also seen used springfield loaded 1911's got for under 600-700 on gunbroker.com.

I bought my RIA for about 3 bills new way back when , what an absolute steal that was , I should be arrested , I knew the price would some day go up and it has , if I was smarter , I would have bought a dozen of them

torpedoman · « **Reply #119 on:** June 20, 2008, 04:09:47 PM »

reading the comments and noticed the comments on "cheap=unreliable" well my r.i.a. feeds and fires everything i put in the mag and it hits were it is aimed and it does it every time i take it out and shoot it no jams no failure to feed or failure to fire just the original point and click device. I really don't know what else you can ask of a pistol, unless of course you really need to impress someone with a brand name, but then again I find a Timex a great way to tell what time it is.