1911A1 Trigger

[358jdj]

I shoot a 1911A1 Springfield.  The only modifications from mil-spec are a Clark barrel and Bomar sites.  My question is, how is the best way to improve the trigger on these guns?  Mine is extremely hard and grates bad.  Hard to shoot well even at 50 feet.  2.5 inch, five shot groups when I REALLY try hard.

Suggestions please....  Thanks in advance.

[williamlayton]

Most good smiths can do wonders on triggers--most of the time a change to a better ignition system does wonders.
Blessings

[richardoldfield]

Get a Snap Cap and dry fire the Springer a lot. If this doesn't help any good gunsmith can do a good trigger job on a 1911 and not charge you an arm and a leg. Regards, Richard

[Mikey]

358jdj:  The problems you describe may require a gunsmith to smooth out the trigger bar channels and possibly retension the trigger spring leaf of the flat mainspring.  You may require a new trigger and I recommend the Chip McCormick kits. 

If you do not feel you can change triggers yourself or smooth the trigger bar channels yourself then the piece should go to a gunsmith.  If you need us to walk you through a trigger change let us know.  HTH.  Mikey.

[Davemuzz]

358jdj,

I have a Springer Mil Spec that I bot used three years ago for $350. It was used very little.....I don't think it had 500 rounds thru it.  I put a bunch of "stuff" on it since I bot it. Some of it functional and some just cosmetic. Two of the best things I did was put on an EGW barrel bushing, and a Nowlin trigger kit.

The Nowlin Trigger kit blabs on about installation by a gunsmith, but if you are competent with a micrometer, and have common sense, you can probably do the job yourself. I did and it worked (and still does) great. The kit removed the creeeeep that the factory installed (I guess they wanted the 1945 "feeling") and dropped the trigger pull down. It's been some time since I measured it....but needless to say It's all good.

You can check out the Nowlin kits at http://store.nowlinguns.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=NG&Product_Code=203C&Category_Code=AK  This was the kit I installed. And it was in fact a "drop in" on my gun. That may not be the case with yours.

Dave

[Questor]

Brownells makes a trigger track polishing stone that costs about $15. Thay may help. I've also had to polish the disconnector where it goes through the hole in the frame. It's a time consuming process, but that may help. As a first test, is to strip the gun and look at the trigger track and see how rough it is. It should be very smooth or you will get some of the behavior you describe.

I agree with the idea of having a professional do the work, but not just any gunsmith. Make sure they truly know 1911s.

[Davemuzz]

Be exceptionally careful if you should decide to do this. Never....NEVER....try to "take some off the top" of the disconnect as if you do, you will reach a point where you will cause the gun to go into "full auto".  Of course, 10 rounds of uncontrolled rapid fire from a 1911 will certanily get your attention....and that of anyone around you.

I think what Questor was referring to was smoothing out the part of the "side" of the disconnect that comes in contact with the "hole" so-too-speak. I am speculating at that, so he can correct me if I am wrong.

Dave

[Questor]

Davemuzz:

Yes!!!! I was saying just to work the side of the disconnector that comes into contact with the hole in the frame. In other words, creep can be due to rough contact when the disconnector slides up and down in the frame hole. Smoothing this out can make a big difference.

[Mikey]

The disconnector is usually pretty smooth.  They are inexpensive and easy to replace.  You are more likely to find burrs or roughness in the hole in the frame the disconnector portrudes from than on the disconnector itself.  A small round file can remove those burrs or that roughness quickly and once removed the sides of the diconnector can be lubricated with plain old gun oil.  Mikey.