Sight Adjustment on Model 94

[jlgwiz]

  I have a Win Model 94 that I inherited from my father.  He bought it new in the late 40's, 25-35 cal. He passed in 1972 and it had not been shot until I took it out recenly, even before that it probably had not been shot more that 5 rounds  since the early 60's.  Cleaned it up, got some ammo (no easy task), took it to the range, Bang Bang. Now my question.  How does one adjust the rear sight for windage? Move the sight left or right I guess but how do you move the sight? I do not want to dork up this sight so I thought I should ask. 

       jlgwiz

  P.S.  Shoots great,  just a little to the right.

[scottzerger]

Hey jlgwiz
               I just returned from the range with my win 94 30-30 and found that it has the same problem as yours , shoots 3-4" to the
             right. I was just going to post this question when i saw your post.  There are some very sharp guys out there and they will
             know the answer .   Sz

[Oldtimer]

Move the rear sight in the direction you want the bullet to go.  Since you are shooting to the right, move the rear sight to the left.  After you do that, gather up all the brass and reload it or make friends with a reloader.  In Cartridges of the World, Barnes said that the .25-35 was as accurate as any other .25 caliber in a solid frame lever action.  To move the sight, tap it lightly with a nonsteel mallet.  I have a couple of copper-face mallets and a plastic-face one.  I am assuming you are talking about open sights.  Peep sights require a different adjustment technique, but you still move the rear sight in the direction you want to shoot.

[wncchester]

The common suggestion to avoid marking the steel is to use a brass punch on the rear sight to drift it it the direction you wish to move the impact.   Problem for most folks is they don't have a brass  punch!   

I usually use a cartridge head, preferably a rimless cartridge, and place the extractor groove on the sight base and use that to drive the sight with a small hammer. 

It can be helpful to make a tiny index mark first.  I use a common needle to make a barely visible mark across the barrel and sight base so I can tell how far I've moved the thing.  If I go over twice as far as I need I can back it up by half the distance, etc.

[jlgwiz]

  Thanks for the info,  I will give it try next time I am at the range.  But I got to tell you it scares me to think about what I have to do.  How about a hard rubber mallet or maybe using a wooden dowel, think either of these would work without harming the sight?

[Jerry Lester]

  Thanks for the info,  I will give it try next time I am at the range.  But I got to tell you it scares me to think about what I have to do.  How about a hard rubber mallet or maybe using a wooden dowel, think either of these would work without harming the sight?

A wooden dowel will work in a pinch, but it'll have to be a very hard wood. Try the fired case head trick first. It works great, and you actually don't have to hit it very hard at all. Use a reference line like Winchester said to keep track of how far you're moving the sight. I just use a good sharp lead pencil myself, then wipe it off when I'm done. It's actually very easy to do, and if you use a case head, it's virtually impossible to hurt anything. Just give it a couple light taps, and check to see how far you went by your index lines. Fire a couple rounds, and repeat till you're sighted in.

[Slufoot]

I always use a small piece of masking tape and stick it to the barrel just in front of the rear sight. Most rear sights on lever actions are made with a point at the front. I use an ink pen to make a witness mark on the tape inline with the point on the rear sight. If your rear sight doesn't have a point on it just stick a piece of tape on it and mark it with the pen.
I like to use a small brass punch to drift the sight left or right.
I always note were the rear sight is on the elevator. If it's 3 notches from the top I'll remember this or you could write it down. Before I try to drift the rear sight for windage I'll let the sight all the way down or even remove the elevator if it comes out easy. This takes tension off the rear sights dovetail and helps a little in drifting it. It also will help from making rub marks on the barrel from the elevator being under alot of tension.
Hope this helps!
Slufoot

[wncchester]

No rubber mallet will have the required impact to move a properly tightened sight.  Use a light touch with a steel hammer and you will be okay.

I can't imagine a wood dowel having sufficient impact resistance to do the job, it will almost certainly split first.  Use the cartridge case, you will have plenty of clearance to keep from hitting the barrel with your hammer.

[jlgwiz]

   Hammer, empty case,  masking tape and pen, all these I can come up with. Since I am hitting right,  move rear to the left.  Ok, guess I am set.  Thanks again,  you all are very helpful.


               jlgwiz