Author Topic: cannon molds (Read 2563 times)

GAWI · « **on:** May 15, 2007, 05:35:59 AM »

where can i pick up mold for 2 1/4 napoleon cannon. Does it need to be smaller than bore size? Thanks

Rickk · « **Reply #1 on:** May 15, 2007, 06:07:02 AM »

Powder Keg made one for me. It is a nice fit and works well. You can check with him for pricing and leadtime.

If you can't wait, Do-it molds makes a "cannon ball sinker" mold (2#). It casts a nice round ball that is a bit smaller than what one would like for a 2.250 inch bore (2.110 verses the "ideal" 2.194), but it is close enough to play with. it is a combo 2 and 3 # ball mold. They are cheap enough that you can get one to tide you over untill a custom, precision fitting mold arrives in your mailbox.

GAWI · « **Reply #2 on:** May 15, 2007, 02:57:55 PM »

Is that a .com? Do not mind waiting for the right mold. Is 2.194 the correct size? Is there anyone else who makes this mold? Thanks.

Rickk · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2007, 04:18:00 PM »

the rule of thumb is 39/40ths.

If you have a good, round mold you can push it a bit more. Make sure you get a chamber gauge with your mold though if you plan on pushing things a bit. A chamber gauge is the same size, or a few thousanths smaller than the bore diameter and at least 3 diameters long. If it can't roll thru the gauge it won't load easily.

With the do-it mold's clearance you would have a pretty noticable sprue or dent before there was an issue, but with a 39/40th or closer ball you could get a little dent and have a stuck ball to deal with.

http://www.do-itmolds.com/prodmolds.aspx?c=66 ... you would want the CB-2-23LF mold.

Get at least a 4# dipper for it. A bottom pour dipper is better than a top pour.
http://www.advancecarmover.com/details.php?sku=03604&line=Ladles&pname=Rowell_ladle_#4

Good gloves are mandatory as well. Someplace back last summer there is a link posted for refractory gloves that work awesome. I got some, they work great. Heck if I can remember where I got them from but the link was posed here. Welding gloves will sort of work, but refractory gloves are way better.

Rickk · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2007, 04:25:06 PM »

I found the gloves link...

http://www.tasco-safety.com/workgloves/high-temperature-gloves.html#kp-214-dwl

model KP-214-DWL

Maybe this should go in the cannon supplies page next to casting ladles ?

Double D · « **Reply #5 on:** May 15, 2007, 06:00:55 PM »

Quote from: Rickk on May 15, 2007, 04:25:06 PM

I found the gloves link...

http://www.tasco-safety.com/workgloves/high-temperature-gloves.html#kp-214-dwl

model KP-214-DWL

Maybe this should go in the cannon supplies page next to casting ladles ?

What do you mean should!!! They are!!

Rickk · « **Reply #6 on:** May 16, 2007, 12:44:21 AM »

.html critters musta snuck in and taken care of it late last night

Don Krag · « **Reply #7 on:** May 16, 2007, 02:44:29 PM »

I certainly could have used a pair of those the other night! Those really aren't bad prices either. I wonder how the dexterity of the 800* pair compares with insulated welding gloves. I used to use a pair of aluminized mittens in my lab...great heat protection, but mittens leave a LOT to be desired in dexterity!

Rickk · « **Reply #8 on:** May 16, 2007, 04:18:32 PM »

I have used leather welding gloves. They don't insulate anywhere near as good as the 800 degree gloves, nor do they hold up as well.

The 800 degree gloves are not as flexible as leather welding gloves though.

For casting small arms bullets the leather welding gloves, or even decent leather work gloves are the way to go.

For cannon ball molds, unless you have a mold with a really decent handle setup you are possibly/probably going to contact the mold now and then during the process, at least I know I do, and the 800 degree gloves are awesome when that happens.

With welding gloves, about the time they start to feel hot you have about one second to get them off before it gets painful.

GAWI · « **Reply #9 on:** May 17, 2007, 05:18:21 PM »

Ok, ordered the mold and ladle. Guess i will find out how loose cannon ball is soon enough. Thanks, Gary

Rickk · « **Reply #10 on:** May 18, 2007, 12:49:40 AM »

Gary, how are you planning on melting the lead?

I use a propane stove with a big frying pan on it.

You want a good supply of hot lead. The first couple balls will be wrinkly till the modl gets hot. Once you get the mold up to temp you want to have enough lead to keep going for a while. Figure 1 ball every 4-5 minutes is a good rate. It ain't like casting 38 wadcutters. It talkes a while for them to cool, and the bold will overheat if you try to cast too fast.

My routine is to add a couple pounds of lead (clean/dry) to the pot while I am waiting for the last one poured to solidify. That way I never run out and can keep going untill I loose interest.

It may get messy. Lead tends to spill here and there and stick to whatever it touches. Don't do it anyplace you want to keep clean. I work over a 4x4 sheet of plywood on the ground next to the stove.

walter t · « **Reply #11 on:** May 18, 2007, 11:22:01 PM »

Hi All,
Where to get a 1" round ball mold?
Walter

Rickk · « **Reply #12 on:** May 19, 2007, 02:17:33 AM »

You can order a custom... There are people here that can make one for you to the exact size you need.

If you need somthing to to tide you over untill your prefered exact size arrives,
http://www.do-itmolds.com/pdf/catalog07/do-it07_sinker_molds_34-41.pdf
The CB-4-AB has 4 cavities... the 3 ounce cavity is .96

Double D · « **Reply #13 on:** May 19, 2007, 06:31:49 AM »

Our sponsors can help you get a mould to fit your gun GBO Blackpowder Mortar and Cannon Board Sponsors

GAWI · « **Reply #14 on:** May 19, 2007, 05:27:10 PM »

Have propane cooker and lots of different size iron pots. Was using this to make ingots. i will need to get better gloves.

Rickk · « **Reply #15 on:** May 21, 2007, 10:10:19 AM »

I cast some .96 balls this weekend with a Do-it mold. The mold likes to be faily hot to work well. Once hot, you can get a ball out every couple minutes. Note that I was only using 1 cavity (the .96 cavity) in this 4 cavity mold.

The High Temperature gloves worked awesome.

Ex 49'er · « **Reply #16 on:** May 21, 2007, 01:32:38 PM »

What do you drop the balls into or onto when they leave the mold and after cutting off the
sprue do you use a file to smooth out the ball?

Blaster · « **Reply #17 on:** May 21, 2007, 02:31:17 PM »

My one inch ball mold is also sized at .960. After I cut off or break off the sprue, I take a course file to the remaining sprue part. And finally, I drop each finished ball through an extra six inch piece of the seamless liner similar to what is in the cannon tube just to make certain it is round and not gonna freeze up in the cannon tube. My mold was purchased about 25 years ago and has wood handles with aluminum blocks.

Rickk · « **Reply #18 on:** May 21, 2007, 02:45:45 PM »

On my mold, once it reaches temperature, the sprue usually separates as it cools. If it doesn't, a set of horseshoe nail cutters tales it off.

Then same as Blaster, a file cleans up anything needing cleaning up.

On the Do-it molds there is a little piece of flashing where the wire loop would have gone if used as a fishing sinker. It cuts off and smooths up pretty qucikly if it didn't fall off already.

A cardboard box makes a good target to dump them into. Take it out of the box and put it carfeully into a second box before you dump the next one or the balls will hit each other and, while hot, are very easily damaged.

If a ball is a bit stubborn about coming out, a wack with a 1 inch wooden dowl will juggle it free.

When casting, keep the sprue full untill you are sure it has solidified inside or you will have voids for sure. Try to avoid overfilling to the point where the excess runs all over the place and down the sides or you will have to pry the excess off.

The first few out of any mold are generally clutzy untill you get a routine down. Molds seem to all have their own "character". After 10-20 balls you will be able to start cranking.

Blaster · « **Reply #19 on:** May 27, 2007, 10:47:20 AM »

Cannon ball making time. It's raining and the temperature is about 70 degrees so I decided to cast a few 1-inch cannon balls on this LONG weekend. Hey, I'm retired so every weekend is a 7 day weekend for whatever I feel like doing. These are made out of wheel weights and the cannon is not particular about soft lead like muzzle loading rifles/pistols are. I have accumulated six (6) five gallon plastic buckets of wheel weights and getting tired of walking around them so though I'd make some balls.
These little one inchers are .960 and are perfect for my Dahlgren. Here is/are pictures of what I'm talking about:
As indicated earlier, I bought this mold about 25 plus years ago mistakenly loaned it to a professional bullet caster who beat the hell out of it. Still works OK but he must have really got it hot to make some permanent brown stains on the interior. I hate loaning any of my tools out and will never do that again.

Blaster · « **Reply #20 on:** May 29, 2007, 02:55:04 AM »

The one inch mold that I pictured above was purchased from one of the folks in our list of suppliers of various stuff for BP cannon/mortar shooting. Got it from Jim Mathisrud of Mpls, MN. This info is being passed along just in the remote chance that anyone gives a hoot.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #21 on:** May 29, 2007, 01:06:49 PM »

Quote from: Blaster on May 27, 2007, 10:47:20 AM

....
Hey, I'm retired so every weekend is a 7 day weekend for whatever I feel like doing.
...

One of the engineers at work is semi-retired - works 3 days a month. HIS weekends are 27 or 28 days!

Rickk · « **Reply #22 on:** May 29, 2007, 03:40:30 PM »

I suppose he gets the weeks of June, July and August off to go on vacation as well ?

GAWI · « **Reply #23 on:** May 29, 2007, 04:14:37 PM »

Where do i get cannon ball mold for 2 1/4 napoleon cannon?

Double D · « **Reply #24 on:** May 29, 2007, 08:16:55 PM »

Quote from: Blaster on May 29, 2007, 02:55:04 AM

The one inch mold that I pictured above was purchased from one of the folks in our list of suppliers of various stuff for BP cannon/mortar shooting. Got it from Jim Mathisrud of Mpls, MN. This info is being passed along just in the remote chance that anyone gives a hoot.

To find a mould for you cannon you might try what Blaster bobb did and look in the Cannon Supply post at the top of the board. Start with our sponsors, they will make you one, then progress down the list to the mould makes and suppliers..

If you bore is precisely 2 1/4 or 2.25 you need a mould for a ball 2.19375 in diameter.

Rickk · « **Reply #25 on:** May 30, 2007, 12:13:37 AM »

You may wanna round off a few zeros from DD's number though... a mold with that many decimal digits will cost money with that many non-decimal digits

GAWI · « **Reply #26 on:** June 08, 2007, 01:33:47 PM »

Cannot get a reply on my e-mails about mold for 2 1/4 bore. Sent to two of the sights. Am i in to much of a hurry or do i need to contact them by phone?

GAWI · « **Reply #27 on:** June 08, 2007, 01:35:20 PM »

Who here has purchased molds for 2 1/4 napoleon cannon and who did you order from?

Rickk · « **Reply #28 on:** June 08, 2007, 02:37:20 PM »

I got mine from Powder Keg... It works awesome.

Rumor has it that he may be a little bit overwhelmed with regular work and cannon work though, so if you don't hear from him that is probably why.

I also have a Do-it mold. The balls are a little looser than the one from Powder Keg's mold, and they are not quite as pretty but the balls are very round. If you get a long lead time for a custom the Do-it mold may tide you over for a while while you are waiting.

GAWI · « **Reply #29 on:** June 09, 2007, 07:32:41 AM »

I picked up the do-it mold, and it is a little sloppy. I use a towel as patch and it seems to work ok. Boy you can sure go through a lot of lead... I here zink would be better, but where do you find it? Lead is everywhere. Thanks