Reading patches

[crb4809]

I realize that I am shooting an Omega inline, but I have been using patched round balls to practice and just general plinking. I figured that the traditional side of muzzleloading would be more competent to answer my question. How far does the patch travel on average? I haven't shot that many PRBs but I have yet to find a single patch. Today I was shooting down a dirt/grass road and still did not ever find anything. I am shooting a .490 round ball with pillowticking patch above 70 grains of Pyrodex RS. I don't know if I am just not looking at the right distance from the muzzle or maybe I'm just blind.
Another question I have is this, the TC manual shows a minimum load of 80 grains using a conical. They don't have any information for using PRBs. What would be a minimum load for plinking or is there really a minimum load for muzzleloading? I like the closed breech and action of the my inline but really don't subscribe to the maximum loads under a sabot camp.
(Just for general information) In my shooting today I shot a 320 grain Maxi ball using 100 grains of Pyrodex into three dry phone books I had taped together with duct tape. At 100 yards it penetrated the phone books about 3.25". That is pretty substantial since this is solid penetration.

[quickdtoo]

You didn't mention what lube you're using on the patch, a dry patch is most likely burning up. I've reused patches that have been fired when I ran out once or twice at a shoot, the lube will protect them, you'll find the patch within 5-15yds of the muzzle usually, they don't go far. With the fast twist barrel, you'll likely have to use a very light load and a very tight patched ball.

Tim

[roundball]

Another question I have is this, the TC manual shows a minimum load of 80 grains using a conical. They don't have any information for using PRBs.

Unless you're referring to a special manual for inlines that came with your Omega, TC's manual entitled:
"Shooting Thompson/Center Black Powder Muzzleloading Firearms" does also have a section of load data tables for patched round balls.


There's a long established rule of thumb for PRBs that uses "caliber size" for general plinking/target/small game loads...examples I use are:

.40/.45caliber = 40grns Goex 3F
.50/.54caliber = 50grns Goex 3F
.58/.62caliber = 60grns Goex 3F

These are usually very accurate, and certainly all that's needed for paper, cans, pine cones, etc for 25-50 yard shooting.
Bump them 10grns for 100 yards to keep a somewhat reasonable trajectory at the longer distance.   

[crb4809]

The patch lube I am using is 3 parts virgin olive oil, 1 part beeswax, 1 part murphy's oil soap. I don't remember who gave me that recipe, but it was on one of the traditional muzzleloader forums. Also I cut my patches at one inch so they may carry the full 15 yards before  stopping.
I appreciate the rule of thumb for plinking loads. It may be that even 70 grains is a little hot for the fast twist. Sure would be nice to have enough money (and understanding wife) to just buy everything I wanted instead of trying to make do with what I have.
Thanks for all of the information. Hopefully I can come up with another excuse to run out to the pasture soon so I can get in another practice round.

[Will Bison]

Patches will typically hit the ground about 20-30 feet in front of you. They can be a real bugger to find sometimes. A tiny amount of wind can blow them off to the side quite a distance.

As for a load try 50 grs as a start for plinking. No point burning up expensive powder. I don't know much about inlines but the basic principles of powder, patch, ball aply.

[flintlock]

Another thing that you need to consider is the type rifling that you have in your Omega...It has a 1 in 28 twist barrel and the grooves are button rifled and only about .004-.005 deep...A custom built round ball gun in .50 caliber will have deep, cut rifling grooves, more like .012-.015 deep and a 1-66 twist...A round ball is shorter than a bullet and requires less twist to stabilize.....

I would drop down to 40-50 grains of powder, or buy your sabots in bulk from MMP and buy your bullets in bulk as well...Either the Hornady .451 300 grain XTP or the Hornady .451 250 grain XTP work well in many inlines...

Getting back to patches, as mentioned when they are recovered they should look good enough to reuse...If they are burned through you need to change lube, try a tighter combination, back off on the powder charge or use hornets nesting or a wad between powder and ball to help protect the patch...

It helps to have a spotter watch you shoot, they can look for the patch as it comes out of the barrel.
Once you see where they are landing, place a tarp in that area to catch them...

[captchee]

i would agree with flintlock and would add this .
 The fast twist combined with the rifling used in modern muzzleloading fire arms is probably at your load  turning the patches into a tight twisted  knot about the size of a pencil.
 Patches like hiding in tall grass  and if knurled up they  are almost impossible to find .
 I would suggest finding an open area with low grass or dirt to shoot over . Have someone stand  back and to the side so as not to be obstructed by any smoke and watch for a patch to fall away . If you still find nothing then look down closer to the target or at the target . Sometimes a fast twist barrel will  wrap the patch to the ball and the ball will carry it .


 When you find the patch it should  have something like a sun  printed on the patch . IE a circle with rays coming off the circle .
This should be brown to dark brown . Depending on quality of powder it can also be black  but you should shoot for a nice brown .
 If there are any  black  sections with holes  you have rifling cutting the patch . Sometimes this can be cured by simply shooting . Other times the only way to get  rid of  sharp rifling is to lap the barrel
 A torn up patch will either be from burn through or tearing while loading . In this case try a thicker patch  or a different lube .
 Hornets nest  or an over the powder card or wad can also help .
 I would also recommend reducing your load just as the others here have said . A fast tist barrel will shoot round balls however the trick is to find a powder charge that will not cause the   load to skip the rifling  and tear itself up