MK II malfunctioning

[Camba]

I am in the process of ordering a new complete bolt assembly for my MK II slab sided pistol.  I had use this pistol ever since I bought it (can't remember if 91 or 93) and I have put at least 15,000 or maybe 20,000 rounds.  I've used all the ammunition that will cost from $1.00/box to bulk Federals (the best for the price) and the $10.00 Eley target type.  Anyway, this gun had been so accurate that I could easily print 3/4" groups repeatedly with the federal bulk or the CCI minimags.  I have had jams throughout the life of this pistol but not to the point to really bother me until now.  Now it jams every shot!

The jamming characteristics that I am getting is similar to the stove-pipe type.  It appears that when the round is fired, the recoil spring assembly does not completely pull backwards to the point where the pointy permanent piece in the receiver does not push the empty round out of the extractor (sort of like if you were shooting a .22 short with a LR case.)  At that point, the bolt tries to bring in the new round from the magazine but the previous round still there and fight for the chamber.  What is curious though, is that if you rapid fire (as fast as your finger can fire), the gun functions mostly OK.

The following are things that I tried and observed:
1.  Purchased new magazines (no solution)
2.  Purchased new Brownells extractor (no change in performance)
3.  Cleaned the gun thoroughly (no much noticeable change)
4.  I have tried several types of ammo (similar results)
5.  I open the action and follows its functioning and it seems fine.

After all that, I decided that this time I will buy the complete bolt assembly to eliminate most of the variables; or purchase just the recoil spring assembly.  What do you guys recommend I should do?

Please, help.  Thank you.

Camba


P.S.  FYI: I did not send my pistol to Ruger because I have it down in south america and it would be difficult logistically to send it back and forth.

[Savage]

Sounds like the bolt or recoil spring assembly is binding or needs lubrication. Have you checked the bolt and upper carefully for drag marks? Make sure the firing pin retaining pin is installed flush in the bolt. While you're at it, make sure the rebound spring and retainer are in place. They are easy to lose, and if they are missing there will be insufficient tension on the firing pin to retain the firing pin retaining pin. Wow! What a tongue twister!! Good luck with your MKll. They are a fine pistol.
Savage

[Camba]

They are great pistols.  In fact, I have a second one like that; same model and that will not have any jams for almost 1000 rounds.  The accuracy of my new pistol is not near the one that is in trouble.  Too bad I don't have both guns in the same place; otherwise, I would have swap the bolts to see if that fix the problem.

You comment about the firing pin retainer pin was a problem in the past.  When I took that pistol for a trigger job, I could not wait to test how light the trigger was and I dry fire a half of dozen times.  Then I realized that I dented the front of the chamber with the firing pin and left a burr in the edge of the chamber that I could not load another round.  I took it back to the smith and he was not happy that I dry fire it.  I've noticed a not so nice finished pin for the firing pin retention ever since and he also smooth out the burr from the lip of the chamber.  I am wondering if that is the main cause.  You are really good!  I will check into that.  If that is the problem, then bringing a new bolt will have to cure that problem.  Don't you think?

Camba

[Camba]

I ended up purchasing the complete bolt assembly for my pistol.  As a pleasant surprise, the Ruger parts sales person walked me through all the possible problems that my MKII may have and his recommendations were almost exactly as the one Savage suggested.  Since I was determined anyway, I purchased the new complete bolt.  This person was very knowledgeable of the Ruger guns and he went out of his way to help me out.  I like that!

Camba

[Savage]

Camba,
The MK11 is the finest target/plinker this side of the S&W 41. I'm sure the bolt will get yours back up and running. Save your old bolt for the unlikely event you ever need parts. Enjoy!
Savage

[1911crazy]

Have you completely takin it apart and cleaned it squeeky clean?  I purchased a used MKII and it was so dirty I almost passed it up.  After a complete disassembly and a good cleaning i lubed it up with moly and we test fired it and it was flawless the whole time.              BB

I put a little moly on all the moving parts and the springs too then i reassemble the gun and work it in by hand till it loosens up.  Its tight at first with moly in it.  But it will go back to the normal feel when it works in.  It will function faster and smoother too.  Put some moly on the trigger sear too. (TS-70)

[Keith L]

"Put some moly on the trigger sear too. (TS-70)"

Be real careful about any lube on trigger parts. 

[greener]

Good thread.  Gives me something else to watch in my Rugers.  I don't have enough rounds through them to have any major wear problems.  Seems that if you pay attention to cleaning every now and then, they just keep on shooting.  I have several rimfire pistols.  Like them all.  Seems like the Rugers are the best made of the group.

[Jim n Iowa]

Get a hold of Volquartsen they may have a web site, you can call them at 712-792-4238. They specialize in Ruger. I have a MK2 and it is the finest shooting 22 out of the box I own.
Jim

[Camba]

OK

Finally, I went to south america to see my relatives and of course, to take care of that old Ruger MK2 that I wrote about.  The results were as follows:

1.  Place the new bolt assembly into the pistol and cleaned the gun completely.
2.  Took the gun for a firing test and the first shot jammed.
3.  Cleared the jam and tried again.  Same problem.
4.  Left a round in the chamber an removed the magazine.  It jammed again.
5.  Stop shooting and stripped the gun again.  This time I noticed that the fixed pointed part that is riveted to the action was bent-ed towards the wall of the action tube and twisted outwards a little.
6.  Using a small metal rod, I pry the part carefully until it moved a little toward the center.  Before doing that, I looked through the front of the bbl and I could not see the pointed part.  After I moved it, it begun to show.
7.  Tested the gun again and three hundred rounds later I still had no jams.
Case solved.

Apparently, after about 20,000 rounds through it must had moved enough to fail to kick the round out so that the extractor could do its part.
The stove pipe appearance of the jam was due to the empty shell still grabbed by the bolt/extractor as the new round makes it to the chamber.

Prior to travel to south America, my brother and I were comparing the two pistols over the phone and one thing we seem to have a hard time was that particular part since he claimed he could not see it.  My trips there are one every two years so I decided to take the entire bolt so I don't miss anything.  Murphy's law applies anyway.

Thank you all for the hints and support.

Camba