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Author Topic: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design  (Read 1213 times)

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Offline LivnDream

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How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« on: May 31, 2007, 05:49:47 PM »
Well i had planed on having a mortar made like the no lathe mortar 2 post.

was to be made from cold rolled steel 4" round 2" bore with a 1"x1" powder chamber and a 1" hole drilled through it for trunnion bar.

well i got it tonight  with a price tag of $0.00   

what i got was not even close to the drawing i sent

the piece is not functional it has no vent

how to make it work and still be pre 1898 design ???

here are the specs:

O.A.L.: 13"

Bore: 1"

Muzzle Dia.:2.5"

Breach Dia.:3"

Bore Depth:7"

End of Bore to trunnion hole 1"

Trunnion hole: 1"

this barrel looks like a cannon not a mortar

it is to muzzle heavy to mount like a cannon 

Breach end wont work in a mortar mount


i need some creative ideas for a mount , base ,carriage ect. to make it work and still be pre 1898 design

any help guys ?  i really dont want to have to scrap it   
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Offline jeeper1

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #1 on: May 31, 2007, 07:10:57 PM »
You could cut back both ends.
The front to a 2 to 2.5 inch depth.
The rear through the center of the trunnion hole and add a trunnion. Optionally you can radius the rear (hacksaw and file).
Add a .5 by .5 inch powder chamber (that leaves a .5 inch of metal between the trunnion and chamber) and a fuse hole.
Mount on a block of wood.
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Offline Double D

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #2 on: May 31, 2007, 07:24:25 PM »
Quote from: LivnDream on May 31, 2007, 05:49:47 PM
Well i had planed on having a mortar made like the no lathe mortar 2 post.

well i got it tonight  with a price tag of $0.00   


Well,  I guess you got what you paid for...with out doing the math, Jeepers Idea sounds good!
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Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #3 on: June 01, 2007, 04:14:41 AM »
Hmmmmmm.

The trunnion 'hole' could be plugged (assume that hole is for a trunnion and not a BIG fuse ;D  )

Trunnions could then be added more forward, making it a cannon or howitzer; touch hole would be a little far forward, but it would be of minor consequence.


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Offline GGaskill

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #4 on: June 01, 2007, 08:57:55 AM »
I would hate to waste the existing shape.  I would weld a plug in the trunnion hole, the turn it down flush, then mill a couple of shallow 1" pockets centered on the transition from cylindrical to tapered and weld in some trunnions there.  Then drill a vent at the back of the existing bore.  It could be angled to get it farther back.  Then it could be used as a howitzer.
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Offline LivnDream

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #5 on: June 01, 2007, 01:54:55 PM »
well thanks for the advise and suggestions i think im gonna go with a naval  cannon base with a front elevation adjuster
anyone have plans for a naval base?
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Offline Rickk

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #6 on: June 01, 2007, 02:22:10 PM »
Interesting question LivnDream... I'm building one atm... been researching the design... actually the concepts behind the design.

A naval cannon puts about 90% of it's weight on the front wheels. That makes it easy to aim. A 500# cannon can be picked up in the rear with one hand.

So, you are entering the world of artistic creativity.  8)

I would suggest that you look at some naval cannon carriage pictures, but then just "let loose" and see what happens.
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Offline Terry C.

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2007, 03:33:13 PM »
The first thing that came to my mind when I saw that barrel was "Lyle gun."

I'm thinking metal cheeks with a cross-pin for elevation. Could be a very interesting build.

But Lyle guns, though invented in the 1800s, were still being manufactured (and used) into the 20th century. Are Lyle guns within the scope of this forum?


Anyway, I would NOT change it. Someone obviously put time and effort into building it.

You can always build another (and another, and ...).


I traced the photo in CAD. If I come up with any decent plans I'll post them.
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Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2007, 04:32:09 PM »
Quote from: Terry C. on June 01, 2007, 03:33:13 PM
....
But Lyle guns, though invented in the 1800s, were still being manufactured (and used) into the 20th century. Are Lyle guns within the scope of this forum?
....

COOL - it will be a FANCY Lyle Gun replica!

Yes - in the scope of this forum, as the DESIGN (or build) predates 1898.

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Offline LivnDream

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2007, 05:04:13 PM »
lyle gun  interesting  i did a quick search and found this pic
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Offline Terry C.

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #10 on: June 01, 2007, 05:57:09 PM »
There were also several designs with mid-mounted trunnions.









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Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #11 on: June 02, 2007, 09:46:35 AM »
Here's another one -

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Offline dominick

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2007, 09:47:36 AM »
Quote
I would hate to waste the existing shape.  I would weld a plug in the trunnion hole, the turn it down flush, then mill a couple of shallow 1" pockets centered on the transition from cylindrical to tapered and weld in some trunnions there.  Then drill a vent at the back of the existing bore.  It could be angled to get it farther back.  Then it could be used as a howitzer.


    I agree with George.  I would plug the existing hole and install trunions in the proper location.  That's a good looking howitzer barrel.  Dom
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Offline Terry C.

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2007, 10:15:36 AM »
Some experimenting with a steel Lyle mount and a cross-pin for elevation.

Level, 15°, 30°, 45° settings. Could go to 60° with an additional cross-pin hole in the rear.
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Offline Cannonball

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #14 on: June 02, 2007, 03:16:17 PM »
I think you should leave the trunnions where they are. Those diagrams sell me on the idea.
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Offline LivnDream

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #15 on: June 02, 2007, 03:22:29 PM »
terry  is that drawn in autocad? 
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Offline dominick

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #16 on: June 02, 2007, 03:57:14 PM »
I changed my mind.   Terry has the right idea.
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Offline LivnDream

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #17 on: June 02, 2007, 05:00:23 PM »
terry i love it !!

i worked it up in autocad

and im going to get started making it
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Offline Double D

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #18 on: June 02, 2007, 06:07:57 PM »
Quote from: Cat Whisperer on June 02, 2007, 09:46:35 AM
Here's another one -



Tim,

Was that at Fort Shenadoah?
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Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #19 on: June 03, 2007, 02:32:43 AM »
Yes, DD, That's you  in 2005!

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Offline Cannonmaker

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Re: How to make it work and still be pre 1898 design
« Reply #20 on: June 03, 2007, 05:34:58 PM »
Quote from: GGaskill on June 01, 2007, 08:57:55 AM
I would hate to waste the existing shape.  I would weld a plug in the trunnion hole, the turn it down flush, then mill a couple of shallow 1" pockets centered on the transition from cylindrical to tapered and weld in some trunnions there.  Then drill a vent at the back of the existing bore.  It could be angled to get it farther back.  Then it could be used as a howitzer.
What ever angle you drill the vent hole, just remember their will be flame comming from the vent.  The Mortars were allways a problem with the flame was almost at 45deg.  The flame would travel quite aways to the rear.

You have some good ideas with what you have, have fun building a carriage and using your piece.

Rick
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