A couple of finish questions...

[EDELWEISS]

Sorry guys I should probably know these or ask a local gun smith, but here in the "Peoples Republik of Maryland there just arent that many real smiths around, heck its a treasure to find a shop that will mount a boresite a scope in the "not so Free State". 

So here goes I recently picked up a S&W 1917 in .455 (not a typo).  Im happy to report that its in good mechanical condition and in nice "shooter" shape.    BUT someone decided to turn it into a Bar-B-Que special.  The cylinder, hammer, cylinder latch and trigger are nickel.  No doubt it was the hit of the day in a fancy basketweave rig, but Id like to return it to its original state. 
Any ideas who could remove the nickel???

On a more modern theme Ive spotted a nice buy on the "Used Shelf", its a Ruger GP100 thats stainless with some honest wear.  I really like it but Id much prefer a darker finish.  The price is right so I dont mind spending a few extra bucks to have something done.
What can I do to "darken" it?  Id prefer it dark but Id consider something like a matte bead blast.   Can it be "blued" or "blackened" for less than a car payment? 

I need gunsmith recomendations.....

[EDELWEISS]

Sorry I forgot to add, Id consider other options for darkening the Ruger, and Im looking for a good smith.  I dont care what state he's in, as long as he's willing to listen to my sometimes off the edge ideas.

[williamlayton]

Now, if you want to do it yourownself I have no clue.
Most folks who do finishing can accomplish your desire.
Blessings

[EDELWEISS]

Doing something like that is WAAY beyond my skill level.  Im looking for suggestions, for smiths.  Any ideas?

[jhm]

You might try someone who does powder coating for the stainless one or having it anodized to give it a darker finish, on the 1917 probably the quickest and most likely the cheapest would be to get some vary fine emory and go to work, you might also try S&W to see if they have some replacement parts or a sorce.   JIM

[EDELWEISS]

Well Duh, it never occured to me to check with S&W because of the age of the gun

[ed1921]

I'd check with Brownell's for self applied finishes.

[rockbilly]

It may take a little time, but if you have a glass beader available it will (should) remove the nickle finish.  I would start with something rather aggressive, then go down to the finest available for a real satin finish.  The gun will need to be completely disassembled, and each part glass beaded separately.

One thing to keep in mind, often when some of the older guns were found to have excessive pits in the finish they were plated to hide them, this may be the reason it was plated to begin with.  The point, be prepared to purchase replacement parts if they are found to be pitted too bad to reuse, parts should be available either from Brownell or S&W.

I use the glass beading on all guns I re-blue.  I no longer do the bluing, but do the preparation and then take it to a smith friend for the bluing process.  If you do it yourself, keep in mind it is a SLOW process, get in a hurry and you can really mess it up.  Be sure to plug the barrel and cylinders before starting the glass beading.

As for the Ruger, anodizing is likely the best choice for darken the gun, but it too can look new with a matte finish by running it through the beading process.  It won't be dark, but should have a nice matte finish.

Good luck...........