Author Topic: Friction Primers  (Read 3387 times)

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Offline Rebel

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Friction Primers
« on: June 25, 2007, 12:46:41 PM »
Do you guys know of any sites that you can buy friction primers from? Thanks

Offline Cat Whisperer

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #1 on: June 25, 2007, 12:51:35 PM »
Do you guys know of any sites that you can buy friction primers from? Thanks

Rebel -  WELCOME to the board!  If they're not listed in the sticky at the top that relates to 'Where to get...' there will be folks here that will spill the beans on where to get them.

What do y'all shoot?

Tim K                 www.GBOCANNONS.COM
Cat Whisperer
Chief of Smoke, Pulaski Coehorn Works & Winery
U.S.Army Retired
N 37.05224  W 80.78133 (front door +/- 15 feet)

Offline Rebel

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #2 on: June 25, 2007, 01:09:06 PM »
Thanks for the welcome . I shoot full scale Mountain Howitzer 2.25 bore

Offline Rickk

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #3 on: June 25, 2007, 01:23:04 PM »
I have seen them, but they are relatively expensive, so I never paid any attention to where I saw them.

They can be made using ingredients found at some of the pyro sites. They look a bit scarely to me with brass tubing flying everywhere, and look like a bit of work as well, so I just stick with quills and linstock.

The where to find supplies sticky points to http://www.blackpowderva.com/ as a source, and they still are listed on that site

I guess it would be cool to try sometime just for the experience though.


Offline GAWI

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #4 on: June 25, 2007, 01:44:16 PM »
Where did you get mold for it?

Offline accuratemike

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #5 on: June 25, 2007, 01:56:46 PM »
Party poppers (those plastic things that look like a bottle, full of streamers) have a friction primer. The string that you pull is coated in "the stuff". I once dissected a party popper (as a kid) and pulled the string between two fingers. Detonation did occur. You'll only do that once. You could either make something out of them (poppers) or find out what "the stuff" is, and have a go at making your own. I could see a "hybrid", a quill with a popper igniter. MIKE

PS: Welcome!

Offline intoodeep

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #6 on: June 25, 2007, 02:13:28 PM »
Rebel,

 When I was in Mansfield, OH. I met a guy named Jason Clagg. He makes friction primers for a good price. His company name is (Don't Laugh) Yankem & Hyde.:D  :D I will PM you his contact info.

 
If you make it idiot proof, then, someone will make a better idiot.


Offline Rebel

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #7 on: June 25, 2007, 02:22:20 PM »
Intoodeep thanks for the pm

Offline mac_hunter

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #8 on: June 25, 2007, 02:26:10 PM »
I ordered some from Back Creek Gun Shop which is listed in the stickies at the top of the forum. They were around $10 for ten of them, plus shipping. I got some to try along with fuse in my mortar. Have not tried them as of yet but will soon, once I get a little more settled in my new house.
If Pro is the opposite of Con, what is the opposite of Progress?

Congress!

Offline Artilleryman

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #9 on: June 25, 2007, 02:45:01 PM »
I use Phil "Boom Boom" Sieglein's primers.  They run $.95 each plus shipping.  I usually order 150 or more at a time.   I don't remember any of the hundreds that I have used from him failing.  I like to have the guns go off when I say fire, and that doesn't always happen when using a linstock and quill.  The address is below.

Phil Sieglein
5026 Mile Stretch Dr.
Holiday, Fl. 34690
Norm Gibson, 1st SC Vol., ACWSA

Offline intoodeep

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #10 on: June 25, 2007, 03:02:46 PM »
Here's a link showing both suppliers.

http://www.steencannons.com/Sources.pdf
If you make it idiot proof, then, someone will make a better idiot.


Offline lance

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #11 on: June 25, 2007, 03:15:42 PM »
Rebel, looks like everybody already passed along the info on the primers, but that don't mean i can't add another welcome to the board. great site, everybody is friendly and helpful.
PALADIN had a gun.....I have guns, mortars, and cannons!

Offline Rickk

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #12 on: June 25, 2007, 03:25:04 PM »
Artilleryman, if you use the scotch-tape-with-BP-stuck-to-it-rolled-up-inside-a-paper-straw quills, they will go off the instant you hit them with the linstock.

I didn't believe it untill I saw it... they literally explode.

Rick

Offline doubleduece

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #13 on: June 25, 2007, 05:18:13 PM »
I will double the Phil Sieglien source. That is where we get them. They have been very reliable and he backs them up. Quill and linstock ignite just as fast, cost factor is cheaper as well. But for reenacting and the drama for the crowd, nothing works better and looks better than a lanyard and friction primer IMHO. We always have friction primers on hand for battles but always have quills and linstock for a back-up.

Offline Artilleryman

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #14 on: June 25, 2007, 05:40:04 PM »
Rickk, It is not that the quill is slow once lit, it is getting them lit to start with that seems to be a problem at times.  The only problem with friction primers is that sometimes you get a batch that has a heavy "trigger pull". 
Norm Gibson, 1st SC Vol., ACWSA

Offline Don Krag

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #15 on: June 26, 2007, 05:09:29 AM »
Welcome to the boards!

My chemistry days were too fuzzy....I found the proper chemical formulas for the various "pull-pop" stuff:

"The British "cracker" or American "party popper" contains a string that when pulled at both ends makes a small report and liberates a party favor from the burst paper container. To make a cracker, the string is laid out, a loop is formed in it, and a drop of 68% KClO3, 12% red P, 9% S, and 11% chalk is dropped on it (there are other mixes). The mix is unstable, but only 16 mg is used, so it can do no harm. When it dries, the device is wrapped as required. When the string is pulled, the crumbling of the drop detonates it, and it makes a small report. "Snap n'Pops" consist of a cigarette paper wrapped around a little sand coated with 0.8 mg of silver fulminate. When this is thrown down, it makes a little bang. This is a very safe firework, also suitable for residential areas. "Caps" used to be available in rolls for use in "cap pistols." They were on red paper, with little dots where the mix was placed between the layers. When struck, it would make a bang and a little smoke. The mix was Armstrong's Mixture, 67% KClO3, 27% red phosphorus, 3% sulphur, 3% CaCO3 dissolved in water with some gum arabic or similar binder. A small dab, containing a few mg of mix, was put on a paper backing and allowed to dry. Such devices are individually wholly innocuous, but in millions may pose a hazard, as in the explosion in Paris mentioned above. I would confidently bet that they have now disappeared from toy stores. Years ago, boys made a device from two bolts and a nut that held match heads, scraped off strike-anywhere matches, between the two bolts. When thrown rather firmly, a bang was produced."




I always assumed the friction primers were a phosphorus compound like strike anywhere matches with BP meal powder underneath it in the tube.

Somewhere I have several boxes of the little part-poppers. Hmm...I just might have to experiment a little.
Don "Krag" Halter
www.kragaxe.com

Offline civilcannon

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #16 on: June 26, 2007, 05:31:53 AM »
I have been getting friction primers from boom-boom foe several years and they were fine. The last batch of 150 I had a failure rate of 1 out of 4. The charge shoots out of the top rather than the bottom, hence no ignition of the gun.

I talked to 2 other gunners with similar results. I went in with a partner on this last batch and will contact boom-boom for replacements
Someone said that he is no longer making the product but his son is carrying on the business. I have not verified this or has anyone else had a problem with this product?

Thanks C.C.

Offline Rickk

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #17 on: June 26, 2007, 05:56:28 AM »
If you want to mess with making them yourself, friction compound materials are available from http://www.firefox-fx.com/kits.htm

Offline Artilleryman

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #18 on: June 26, 2007, 06:08:56 AM »
civilcannon, If you run into a batch where the charge shoots out the top it is because too much clay was used in the bottom.  Dig some of it out and your back in business.  I have never had this problem with Boom Boom's primers, at least not yet.  I did notice this past weekend that the new batch that I just got seemed to have a heavier "trigger pull".
Norm Gibson, 1st SC Vol., ACWSA

Offline Rebel

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #19 on: June 26, 2007, 12:13:22 PM »
Thank all your guys for your post. I have order my primers and they are on the way. Thanks Again...

Offline Will Bison

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #20 on: June 27, 2007, 10:35:40 AM »
Well Rick beat me to it, I was going to suggest the kits from Fire Fox also. I have never tried them so no experience.

Bill

Offline civilcannon

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #21 on: June 28, 2007, 11:51:23 AM »
civilcannon, If you run into a batch where the charge shoots out the top it is because too much clay was used in the bottom.  Dig some of it out and your back in business.  I have never had this problem with Boom Boom's primers, at least not yet.  I did notice this past weekend that the new batch that I just got seemed to have a heavier "trigger pull".

Hay Artilleryman: thanks for the tip I will do a couple of test shots this weekend and hope they work on the 4th and hope for a good ignition during the performance.

Offline Artilleryman

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #22 on: June 29, 2007, 03:20:48 PM »
Civilcannon, I would be interested in the results.
Norm Gibson, 1st SC Vol., ACWSA

Offline CU_Cannon

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #23 on: July 03, 2007, 04:18:26 PM »
There is nothing quite like pulling a lanyard to fire a cannon.  Fuse and linstock are ok but there is something about pulling that cord.

One thing to make sure is that you use a real hemp cord for the lanyard.  Synthetic materials and cotton are far too stretchy.  The best is to make you own braded cord from the hemp twine that is used for those hippie necklaces.  Use a four strand square braid.  The lanyard should be about 6’ long with a brass hook at one end and a handle at the other.

When you fire with friction primers you have to keep in mind that you are not yanking the cord.  You need to give a smart pull more like a downward punch.  On full size pieces you hold the lanyard with your arm slightly bent resting on your right leg.  Whey you fire you make a step with your right foot keeping your hand on your leg.  This method uses your whole body to pull the lanyard and not just your hand.  This makes the pull more smooth and avoids having a misfire.

Offline civilcannon

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Re: Friction Primers
« Reply #24 on: July 05, 2007, 06:14:39 AM »
We tried to remove some of the clay / wax in the bottom of the friction primers and tested 4 . the same thing happened the primer fired out of the top . After a telephone call to Mrs. (Boom Boom)  in Florida, she said that the wrong powder was sent to them for the last batch of primers. the problem is compounded by  the fact that this powder retains moisture and hence the roman candle effect .

The goon news is Boom Boom will replace all defective friction primers. The ones I have are sealed with a greenish  color substance.

I wound up making some  by removing the defective powder and reloading with some 2f and candle wax. They worked fine

Offline GGaskill

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Re: Flash! Bang! Whiz!
« Reply #25 on: July 05, 2007, 01:33:56 PM »
For those interested, the source for Don Krag's quote above is located here.  Very interesting page.
GG
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