Ruger No 1 Pros and Cons

[Wayne123]

Hello all.  I have been reading info on this site for the past 3 months and have found it to be informative and entertaining.  I have decided it is time to enter the discussion as I have been having an uncontrollable urge to purchase a rifle that I have admired for many years.  A Ruger No 1.  I know of no one who owns one, they are not stocked in any of my local gun shops, so info is scarce at best.  I have read all of the info on the first 10-12 pages of the single shot rifle forum here.  I have read that accuracy can be inconsistent, that they can be finicky when it comes to choice of ammo, that the triggers must be adjusted even though the newer models are not as easy to do as the old, that the for-end can cause fits with possible uneven pressure etc.  All of these are hard to swallow for a guy that looks at his collection of rifles and sees mostly synthetic stocks, matte finishes, bolt actions, in other words most of which are very practical choices for a trip to the woods.  The No 1 fits none of the criteria that I have had in the past for a rifle.  I have always said it was a single shot which is not acceptable even though I have never needed more than one in the field.  It is shiny, which will cause glare.  The wood is beautiful and will end up scratched if I actually use it.  Even with all of the qualities that I have found to be negative in terms of practicality, the No 1 is the gun I always wanted.

Now to the questions for those that have actually owned No 1s.  What kind of accuracy can I actually expect out of the box?  I do not need a sub-MOA gun as I am not capable of consistently shooting sub-MOA.  I would however like it to consistently shoot 1-1.5" groups with factory ammo.  Is this feasible?  Can the trigger on a new No 1 be worked to a crisp 3 lb by a smith or will it have to be replaced?  How often does the for-end have to be bedded in an effort to achieve the above mentioned consistent accuracy?  I guess what I really want to know, what are the TRUE pros and cons to this gun?  I value your opinion and experiences and thank you for any info that you can share.

[Rangr44]

My advice to you would be to jump right in, and get your feet wet - without all the ditherin'.

I've owned only eight or nine, in .375H&H, .30-06, .45-70, .338, 7X57, .300Mag, .243, and others - not necessarily in that order.
I usually had to sell something, to get something - so, over the years, I've owned a lot of guns - including the high-grade 50th Anniversary #1 and Browning High-Grades.

To try to answer some of your questions -

Since I never actually "beat the brush" with my firearms, nor use them as hiking staffs while crossing streams - they were in as pristine shape, when I sold them,  as when I got them new. Most modern finishes will resist your modest hunting efforts to harm them, and guns are not usually harmed by firing.

Speaking of fine finishes, some are truely bright, epoxy-types - but many have a satin patina. Yes, they are different from plastics stocks/matte finishes - but noway are they like "beacons of light in the night" - It's just that you aren't used to them yet.
The brightest can be temporarily dulled, while hunting, by the application of an automotive paste wax - unbuffed.  The finish can be permanently dulled to a more satin sheen by rubbing down the stock with OOOO steel wool, and applying a stock wax afterward.

My current Ruger #1 is a .30-06 RSI.
Bone-stock, out-of-the-box, with factory ammo, it gives me groups under one inch @ 100yds, every time I shoot it.

With a .30-06, sighted-in 1 1/2" high @ 100yds, I figure I can hold dead-on game out to a point-blank range of about 300yds - which is farther that I can shoot accurately, and probably farther than I can see, unless I'm out in a field somewhere.

I've never had one shoot so bad, that I had to fix or sell it. Call me lucky, but every #1, and a few #3's, that I have/had, would easily shoot under 1 1/2" with factory ammo.

I would be more concerned (personally) of receiving a gun, ordered sight-unseen, that arrived with a stock that looked peanut butter plain, ILO having some nice contrasting grain/figure/color. YMMV.

[RonF]

I agree with Rangr44 - go buy one and start shooting.  I only own one, and have ever only owned one.  The one I have is a 1B that I bought in about 1981.  It has killed some deer and some groundhogs out to 400+ yards.  It's a .257 Roberts, and I bought it because I wanted a dual purpose rifle.  Because I wanted to hunt varmints and deer, I started handloading for it immediately.  The trigger has never been smithed, just adjusted by me.  I did a little light forend bedding and eventually installed the screw in the hanger bar to fine tune pressure on the barrel.  It was a good shooter from the start, though, certainly well under 1.5".  I just wanted the best I could get from it for varmints.  Today, it will consistently go under an inch with just about any good load, sometimes when I do better than average I can get just over half an inch.  I have other, better single shots for varmints such as prairie dogs, but if I was going to go out and sit in the local alfalfa fields for ground hogs, this is the gun I'd take.

Get one and shoot it; I don't think you'll be disappointed.  And, certainly, there aren't many rifles that are better looking to my eyes.  They are also hell for strong!

RonF

[IOWA DON]

I bought a new Ruger No.1 in .22-.250 about 25 years ago. It had the heavy varmint barrel and I put a Leupold 3.5-10X scope on it. I paid extra for it in order to get better wood and it was a beautiful gun. I got some one-MOA or slightly better groups with it off a bench rest when I was very consistent with the rest under the forearm. If not very careful the groups tended to be one-MOA wide by two or more MOA high. It was impossible to be very consistent with forearm hold when hunting so I missed more coyotes and varmints then I would have expected. I understand it is simple to fix the forend problem by running a screw through the forend hanger and tightening against the barrel. I wish I had known about that simple fix instead of having sold it. I don't think a single shot rifle is much of a handicap for hunting. If one misses a standing animal with the first shot, what is the chance of hitting a running animal with the second shot? I do a lot of my hunting with Thompson-Center TCR's (hammerless break-over single shots) and don't feel handicaped. They also can have a forend bedding problem, but it is easily solved by free-floating. I have read that old Ruger No. 1's have better triggers, but that the barrels on newer ones are better. As far as the shiny finish of the metal and wood, one can always cover it with tape while hunting. Just be sure not to leave it on for too long or the stock finish may come off with the tape.

[Hairtrigger]

One really bad thing about the No.1 is that they multiply.
I purchased my first and within a year I owned 3!

[drdougrx]

The only negative I found and its probably just me is that the receiver bridge is too far forward.  So, I used off set rings to get my 2x7 leupold closer on my 243 and a limbsaver pad on my 45/70 to give me some extra length for the 2.5x scout scope (which needs about 13 inches).  These things work just fine.   I can't recommend any other mods.

[Tom W.]

I have two, a 7mm Rem Mag and a 30/06  that I just had re-chambered to 30/06 A.I. Both are #1B's, blued metal. I put a limbsaver on both of them, and on the 7MM  I had a Moyers trigger installed. The '06 had a regular trigger job. I did have the safety button ground down in the front on both of the rifles, as I didn't like the way it interfered with spent cartridges.

I cannot comment on how they like factory ammo, but with the right handloads they are both tack drivers.

When I get the chance, I'll part with a few of my other rifles and obtain one in .270

[Ron T.]

I have a 1981 RSI (Ruger #1 International with a full Mannlicher-style stock) in 7x57mm.  In addition to being the most beautiful rifle I've ever seen, it's strength and quality of manufacture is, like it's name, "#1".

I bought the RSI last August from its original owner who claimed it gave him extraordinary accuracy.  After installing a new 4x-12x by 40mm scope with parallax adjustment on the objective turret, I began working up loads of H4350 with a 140 grain Sierra ProHunter flat-based bullet sparked by a standard Winchester primer in "accurized" Remington cartridge cases.

I eventually found the "sweet spot" was 47.6 grains of H4350 which yielded a modest muzzle velocity of 2578 fps and which gave a "best" 3-shot group @ 50 yards of just .179 inches.  Actually, ALL the loads of H4350 right up to and including the MAXIMUM load of 50.0 grains of H4350 shot very accurately (less than a minute of angle), but the 50.0 grain load gave a noticeable increase in muzzle blast and recoil compared to lesser loads.

If I were looking for a "hunting load", the maximum load of 50.0 grains would be it.  However, I am only interested in an "accuracy load" at this time.  While I didn't chronograph this load, a popular reloading manual indicated this load yielded 2784 fps out of the 22-inch barrel of a Ruger Model 77 test rifle.

Incidentally, this "maximum load" should ONLY be fired in MODERN RIFLES and may be dangerous in your rifle, so use standard hand-loader's procedures and "work up" to any load.

However, I'd be remiss if I didn't also tell you that in other single shot forums at other sites, a good many #1 owners seem to have accuracy issues with their Ruger #1's.  Apparently, not all Ruger #1's are born equally accurate. 

However, most all #1's are more than accurate enough for use under actual hunting conditions as long as the hunter does his part. 


Strength & Honor...

Ron T.

[Wayne123]

Thanks for all of the info.  I have decided to get a #1B in either 30-06 or 300 Win.  I have a local shop that will get me either for $779.95 which doesn't sound like a bad deal since online they run around$750 before shipping and FFL transfer.  I was planning on putting a Zeiss Conquest on it but the Conquest only comes in silver or matte finishes.  I guess I'll add another Leupold Vari X-III to the collection.  Again, thanks for the insight.

[kennisondan]

good choice to proceed. I have two now and had one in the past. the '06 was a 1b; the 270 tropical sporter; and the 45 70 - an anniversary model. All that I have had served as deer hunting tools and did the job with great ease. I had no problems but did try to confine my hold to a consistent place on the forearm slinged in identically as possible every time and rested my wrists or arms instead of the rifle if possible , and if I rested the rifle,if possible it was primarily on the little space between the hanger and the lever, behind the hangar.
I loved my 1B. had to buy another R1.
if you are unhappy I bet you can sell it.
dk

[Luckyducker]

I have never owned a #1, but a friend of mine has a #1-B chambered in 22-250 that I have shot a few times.  A couple years ago I went to Garden City to drop off a rifle at the smith for rebarreling  and my friend went along cause we stopped at the range on the way home, anyway the wind was blowing 75mph with stronger gusts (no exaggeration) left to right so I only shot a few rounds and the grit and dust was so bad I couldn't keep my eyes open.  He shot some more and then pulled out his #1 and shot a group with it and we walked down the 100yds to look at the target and I couldn't hardly believe it.  In that wind he had shot a .5" three shot group with a factory stock rifle using hand loads with cheap Remington 50 grain hollow point bullets.  They'll shoot!

[Ireload2]

They are nice looking rifles. I had a .243 which I sold without shooting much. I own several others now. I had one with a bad barrel.
Ruger replaced it free of charge. My #1 rifles have not been terrifically accurate as compared to a bolt gun.
In general they are not the easiest thing to be happy with a scope on because the scope has to sit too far forward unless you use a scope with a really long section behind the adjusting turret.
As you get older if you want to shoot one with iron sight sights you are a bit stuck because there is no good way to put a receiver sight on one without drilling it. My eyes are not good enough to use the factory open sights precisely. NCGS makes a receiver sight that will fit the rib but it requires a really tall front sight.


 

[Rangr44]

[NCGS makes a receiver sight that will fit the rib but it requires a really tall front sight.]


I didn't have to go to a higher front sight (also available, BTW, from NECG) when I mounted the NECG peeps on either a M77 bolt or a #1A.

I did replace the #1's front sight - but it was to get an Ivory Bead, ILO the issue sight.

Forward scope/eye relief issues can mostly be resolved via the use of Ruger's extension rings ILO the standard rings, to shift any scope rearward.

[gunnut69]

I really like the #1 and have several. I bought the first a 25-06 barreled action and stocked it myself but have not yet worked with it for accuracy. The #1V in 300 winMag is a really great shooter and quite rare. I bought a #1B in 6mm Rem because the wood was so pretty. It shoots the worst of them all and likely should be re-barreled or rechanmbered. I've been looking at a 240 Gibbs(basically a 6mm-06 IMP'd). The 220 Swift I bought as a coyote shooter and it works well but as usual has been safe bound by new projects and ideas. It is a V model and is a real tack driver. The triggers on the newer rifles are a shame but can be fixed fairly easily. The older rifles had great wood but the barrels were originally iffy.. Some were so bad they had to be replaced. Chambering specs also had some variability in the throat lengths but that is not a real problem unless you don't handload. They have a few quirks but then so do most rifles and even I have a few.. Buy one and enjoy..

[Fred M]

I have three #1 and on #3 all four produce sub MOA accuracy, The 25-06 shoots
 the best with with three  shots under a 1/4".

As mentioned  above the scope location can be remedied with extension rings.
I choose a different method and installed weaver bases. The rear  is a #57
modified to sit on the action. Besides given proper eye relieve it also reduces the weight by a pound.

If there is any negativity it is the weight and the 26" barrel I would prefere a 24" barrel. Two of my rifles have 22" barrels and I love them.

[Argonaut]

Okay, My Number 1B in chambered for .257 Roberts,  I have  shot several groups with it under 2 inches at 200 yards for 5 shots.  But, I have to say that I made sure the barrel was completely cool after each shot. and holding it in my had instead of on a sand bag.  It will always put the first two rounds in heart sized area everytime at 200 yards   

I looked at some  of the methods of accurizing  a number one.  I took some measurements just this evening so I can start making one of them on my lunch hour at work (I am a machinist).  I haven't read anyones report about one so I will let folks know if it is worth while to buy one. (mind you since it isn't my design I won't be able to sell them myself, but I sure can evaluate the idea.)

[Rangr44]

What type of groups R U getting with that .257, Argonaut ? R they round or string horizontally or vertically ? The reason I ask, is that there's different fixes for the various ills.

One thing I'd do would be to try Federal ammo in it, if you haven't.

The 2nd thing I'd do would be to torque & locktite all the scope ring screws, and check the rib screws while I was at it.

The 3rd thing I'd do would be to check that the barrel was 100% clear of the forend wood, tip to action.

The 4th thing I'd try would be to D/T the end of the forend hanger for a long setscrew, which I would then adjust to apply an "up" pressure against the bottom of the barrel (adjust/shoot/adjust, etc as req'd)

The last thing is, besides holding the forend with your hand between it & the sandbag, would to also be sure the butt was recoiling directly against my shoulder and not digging into the rear sandbag or bench.

[Rustyinfla]

 I have a #1 in .308 that will stay around .75 MOA all day long and I don't feel mine is broken in yet. I've only fired 150 rounds or so through it as of yet. I was subscribed to a #1 users group on Yahoo for a while but it was too hard to read everything in that format. the only problem I see with the #1 is that they're so pretty you'll want more than one or two. From what I've read it was always considered Bill Ruger's pet project and something he took great pride in. I've thought about doing something to my trigger but it seems to suit me as is so until I can find a reason to change it, it will remain box stock.
   One thing I did learn from the user's group was that if you don't open the stock rings that come with the rifle and call Ruger they will trade out the stock rings for the extended style at no charge. I also went with a Leupold scope on  mine because they are reported to have a longer eye relief that is helpful with the #1. For that reason I went with the Leupold and didn't need the extended rings.

                   Rusty <><

[BobT]

I have a #1A in .270 that shoots very well with a few different loads, for factory ammo so far Federal premium with 150 grain partitions is the winner with average groups at right around 1" for 5 shots at 100 yards. My particular gun likes heavier bullets in general and I have obtained good accuracy with the following, Nosler BT's in 130 and 140, Nosler Partition in 150 (130 Part. didn't do so well but still right at 1.5" ave.) !40 Hornady Interlock did well also. The 90 grain bullets won't shoot much under 1.75" with any load I have tried so far. The worst accuracy came with the 150 grain round nose bullets from Remington (factory ammo) and Hornady (reloads) with groups averaging about 2.5" for both. My favorite powder in this rifle is IMR 4350, I use WW brass and WLR primers. I had an old Vari-x II 2-7 on it for several years but I switched to a new VX II 1-4 this year It looks so much better on this gun and so far is shooting good, it was also a bit easier to get the eye relief OK with this one for some reason. My trigger is right at 2.5 lbs. but it is a little "mushy" a good gunsmith should be able to fix you up with a clean 3 lb pull no problem. I'm looking at a #1B in .270 Weatherby right now but I have not decided that I need it yet! I love mine and don't plan to part with it!

Good luck! 

Bob

[walkingwolf]

I just got a #1 in 405 win.  fired 7 shots to sight in last 3     1 3/16 @ 100 very happy with it.

[glwenzl]

I really like the falling block #1 riffle! although i have only owned one (218 Bee) I wish I had many more!!!

I like them mostly because shooting PDs off a bench I don't have to move the entire riffle from the rest and break it open.

I put a Simmons 44 Mag on mine to get a long eye relief and it worked out great... My Nikon's and Lueys would not work....

Here is a typical type of group I get with loads that seems like it should be too hot but in fact I have never worn out the brass yet after many firings??? The key to getting a good load with this is using a LFCD....



This was shot with the factory super heavy trigger and now it wears a Kip. trigger that is a great improvement!

FWIW this riffle would vertically string about 2" or better at 100 yard 5-shot groups. no other mods and only thing done different was the ligun/LFCD  load. the hotter loads seem to shrink the groups up making it an easy 400-450 yard PD riffle!!!

[tbacala]

I only own one Ruger No 1, but I've owned it a long time.  When the No 1 first came out, it was love at first sight and I bought the first one that I saw.  That was in 1975 and the rifle was a 1-A in 30-06.  I've bought and sold a lot of rifles since then, but I would never part with the Ruger.  While some may not deem a single shot as a worthy deer rifle, I have never felt like I was at a disadvantage with the No 1. 

As to performance, my No 1 has always shot about 1.25 inch groups.  No, this isn't spectacular, but it certainly is good enough for a big game rifle.  It should be mentioned that in over 30 years of use, it has never suffered a change in impact.  In my opinion, most No 1's are capable of better accuracy right out of the box.  For one thing, I believe that barrels on current Rugers are a lot better than the ones on their older rifles. 

My No 1 has probably gone on 95% of my big game hunts.  Occasionally, I feel compelled to try out a new rifle--usually a bolt action--but I just can't seem to break my addiction to the No 1.  Today, my No 1 looks somewhat aged.  The blue has worn off around the edges and the stock finish has chipped in several places, especially around the now slightly dull checkering.  It shows all the signs of a well used, but not abused, rifle. 

I rate the No 1 as a "10". 

[daddyof4]

The #1 is my all time favorite rifle.  I have two currently a 1B in 25-06 and a 1V in 6mm Rem. Both have tweaked triggers. The 6mm wears a Redfield Ultimate Illuminator. The 25-06 wears a 4x12 elite 3000. They both are bedded and shoot under half inch with my hand rolled ammo. I don't really see a down side to them. When I did first get the 25 I was really bothered that I dinged the stock, so I killed a big sixpointer to ease my pain. I also had the 1H in 458 win mag. Child number 2 came and had to sell to help with bills. I miss that one terribly....

[varmintman]

Hi varmintman here, I have a #1B in 6mm remington and have found that if you shoot it a few times when new it will fall into its own. I've used mine for chuck hunting for years and never had any problems hitting my subjects at ant range. I reload for it. It has a tasco 4 to 16 and a harris bipod. I love it and am thinkingof taking up coyote hunting with it. Hope this helps.

[bearbeater]

Hey all
I am reaching in my pocket and tossing 2 pennies into the discussion, one is a Canadian penny. The nbr1 is one fine gun but it is noisy. between the safety and the falling block they are terrible. I know the trick of the safety but the falling block is bad for noise. in a hunting trip I would hunt with them but I still go to my nef handi or my Swede. The nef handi with the extractor is the most silent rifle around. remember this my 2 cents one is Canadian.
Bearbeater

[TLARbb]

I agree with Fred M. about the reciever bridge.  I absolutely love these rifles.  You might find that you need extension rings to get your scope positioned to your likeing.  Another is to look for scopes with a longer eye relief.  I used a 3-9X Burris Fullfield (I, not II) and the turret was more to the front of the scope tube which helped in getting the scope set up correctly for me. 

Pros:  Great rifle.  Everyone should have at least one.

Cons:  I am without one at the present.  I want an RSI this time.  .30-06 would be good since I have never had a .30-06 (What's up with that?!)

EJ

[fernie]

Hands-down the Ruger #1 has been my favorite gun.  I've owned#1s in a .243, a .300 Win. Mag., and 2 .375 H&H Tropicals.  Each and every one was accurate out of the box.  They fit me well and point well.  They  disassemble easily.  And they are strong...my most accurate loads were always over published max.  I shot the .243 and .300 scoped.  Once I got loads (Barnes-X) worked up for the .375's I had the receivers drilled for a Lyman peep and put front globes on them.  And they have such nice lines.  That's the up side...

The down side for me was the weight.
 
I have very fond memories of my #1s...  You can always get a lemon, but for a production-grade hunter I've never gone wrong with one.

Doc

[bodyman]

Ivied  had a bunch of #1s over the years a 25-06 that shot a lot of deer but would only shoot 1.5, "several  in varmint calibers and a 458 and others all were stock form and not any would not set the world on fire, but all were very pretty guns to look at. Now I have a 257 weatherby mag. it has a 26' shilen barral and it will drive tacks. Its a winner probably one of the best shooting rifles Ivied ever owned an it will shoot any thing I put down the tube. Got to love it Jim

[Skeezix]

I've owned quite a few #1's over the years and presently have them in .25-06, .375 H&H, .416 Rigby, and .45-70.  The only one I ever had that wasn't a shooter was a #1A in .243 that shot 12" to 14" patterns at 100yds and was built in 1982.  Back then Ruger was having barrels built by a sub-contractor.  About any of 'em built in the '80's are suspect until proven otherwise by shooting.  A trip back to the factory cured mine and it came back able to achieve sub-MOA even with factory loads.  Now Ruger hammer forges their barrels in-house and they are MUCH more consistent. 

I strongly suggest that if you are interested in nice wood, to hand pick the wood or get good photos of the rifle before laying your money down.  Their wood grain is extremely variable.  I've gotten rid of a few of mine just because the wood was so butt-ugly or mud-fence plain.  The triggers on the older models are adjustable, and the newer ones can be made quite nice by competent 'smiths, and there are quite a few aftermarket triggers available that can make quite a difference, IF they are properly installed and setup by someone competent.

And I agree with what Rangr44 said.  I know you've already bought a #1 by now.  We'll be interested in hearing back from you to see how you're liking it and what kind of field and range results you've had. 

[Cummins]

I have been thinking about getting a #1 lately and I have a question. If you free float the forearm to stop wood to metal contact does the forearm hanger still contact the barrel or is the hanger also free floated?