Author Topic: Lifter Cap/ stub project (Read 1789 times)

wtroger · « **on:** July 21, 2007, 05:45:04 PM »

couple of questions.
If I missed these in the Faq's I apologize.
1. Where do I buy a lifter cap for my rimmed to rimless conversion on my stub project. I don't find one at Brownells
2. What is the scope screw hole spacing on a handi and how far from the breach is the first hole. I don't have my other handi here at the moment to measure. and the donor is a 12 ga with no screw holes and I want to drill and tap them before I assemble.
3. I assume I need the 1998 of later ejector that is listed in Brownells. I want the narrow one.

trotterlg · « **Reply #1 on:** July 21, 2007, 07:26:25 PM »

You are better off just making a lifter button, you can then trim it to the exact length you need and tun it to fit the hole you drill in the receiver. I would take a scope rail and superglue it to the stub exactly on top, then use it for a guide to drill the holes, (put a drill in the press that exactly fits the hole in the rail, drill a dimple in the stub and then use the proper sized tap drill to finish it off) drill them through the stub and thread them through before you mount the barrel.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #2 on:** July 22, 2007, 05:44:46 AM »

H&R has a lift button listed on their small parts list , part #R00461, #3.09, but as Larry suggested, making one is simple. I made one from a nail chucked in a drill press, but I did have one to clone. It's .170" long, the head is .026" thick and the shank is .121" in diameter, for some reason I didn't record the diameter of the head in my note, old timer attack I guess!

Tim

wtroger · « **Reply #3 on:** July 22, 2007, 08:49:17 AM »

Thanks guys.
I have the stub done. And the barrel turned and fitted to the stub.I wont trim off the the breach end until I have it all fitted and just before I chamber it.

trotterlg · « **Reply #4 on:** July 24, 2007, 02:39:48 PM »

Take some pictures for us, hope it was as easy as my last one was to do. Larry

wtroger · « **Reply #5 on:** July 24, 2007, 03:28:05 PM »

I will take some pictures tonite and post them tomorrow when I have access to a high speed link this dial up line sucks. I did find the lifter cap at Brownells and the ejector and scope mount. The barrel nut is what I been working on this evening I made a couple of practice ones to get the raw bore size right before I cut and thread the section of the old shot gun barrel for the nut. I was looking at maybe using a section long enough so I could incorporate the original for end lug. I'am still thinking on that one got do some measuring.
Did your shotgun chamber have some tape in it mine had about .010 .I had to bore it ever so slightly to get it to straighten out. Looking back there are a couple of things I would do just a Little different and it concerns the shank diameter for the barrel nut. But we live and we learn it has so far been fun it has challenged me to think a Little deeper then Ii have had to in awhile. And hone some skills I haven't used for a long time.

trotterlg · « **Reply #6 on:** July 24, 2007, 04:50:00 PM »

Yes, the chamber had a taper and I bored it also. I used a collar for a shaft with a set screw in it, I just ground off all the metal that did not look like a barrel band after I had bored it to about .002 smaller that the place it fits on the barrel. I then used a long setscrew to both hold it on the barrel and thread a threaded tube for the forearm screw to go into. Larry

wtroger · « **Reply #7 on:** July 25, 2007, 06:16:15 AM »

I got the pics just can't figure out how to post them. (Help)

wtroger · « **Reply #8 on:** July 25, 2007, 06:26:42 AM »

You just go to attach and select the file you want and do a save. They are all jpeg and none are bigger than 1024k. I don't understand. When I do this it just wipes out the file I selected in the box and the screen goes nowhere.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #9 on:** July 25, 2007, 12:02:59 PM »

No, use the browse window in Additional options, once you find the file you want to attach, just click it, the path will be listed in the attach window, then just hit the post button.

Uncheck the "Spell check as I type" under the post window, it has a bunch of undesirable side affects!!

Tim

wtroger · « **Reply #10 on:** July 25, 2007, 05:12:23 PM »

I was using the browse function and selecting the the file from there will try deselecting the spell check, Will try again tomorrow.

wtroger · « **Reply #11 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:14:42 AM »

pictures the barrel stub It uses the standard 12 ga rim diameter.

wtroger · « **Reply #12 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:17:22 AM »

the receiver and stub I just bored the receiver just enough to take the taper out of it.

wtroger · « **Reply #13 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:20:32 AM »

next, drilled and tapped for scope. Found center with a dial indicator then marked the receiver then used an H&R rail super glued to the receiver and then used tranfer punches to make the drill starting dimples drilled and tapped 6-48 rail fit good all screws started and tightened with no problems.

wtroger · « **Reply #14 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:29:08 AM »

Here is the receiver showing the rim cut deepened makiing sure I is deeper then the ejector cut.

wtroger · « **Reply #15 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:31:39 AM »

The other end

wtroger · « **Reply #16 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:36:41 AM »

This is just showing the prctice nut that I liked the best it would work if it was all you had to use. I am going to use a piece of the shotgun barrel that I parted off right in front of the receiver to make the nut. This is the reason for the practice I only get one shot at the piece of shotgun barrel so I ensured what sizes I needed.

wtroger · « **Reply #17 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:41:48 AM »

This is roughly assembled. Hope to make the real nut this evening. then I get to start the breech face and fiting to the action. Will let you know how the progress proceeds. Thanks for all the help especially to trotterlg I am just following his outline from his last stub project.

d_hiker · « **Reply #18 on:** July 26, 2007, 05:04:14 AM »

It is looking good. I have never done any machine work. I like the close-up photos showing the progress.

trotterlg · « **Reply #19 on:** July 26, 2007, 01:03:18 PM »

Very nice work, this could turn into the default standard for a stubbing project. Larry

wtroger · « **Reply #20 on:** July 26, 2007, 02:56:57 PM »

Thank you, I take that as a very high compliment. The nut is done and I am please with it. Here is a picture. Will post more in the A.M.

wtroger · « **Reply #21 on:** July 27, 2007, 02:47:13 AM »

This is the other end of the barrel nut.

wtroger · « **Reply #22 on:** July 27, 2007, 02:49:07 AM »

It fits togather real good and I can even match the flat on the bottom to the receiver. that is where I will drill the a spanner wrench hole and index it around until it matches up.

wtroger · « **Reply #23 on:** July 29, 2007, 04:22:36 PM »

Well friends it is chambered and I have test fired it. All is well so far the only issue I have is the ejector I have installed it and it just will not quite catch the groove enough to spit out the case it actually does go into the groove it acts like it would work if it would just engage another .002 or .003 thousands. Any ideas? Lifter cap is in place. If you lock the ejector down and insert a case you can feel it snap over the rim into the groove it just will not quite spit out the case.

trotterlg · « **Reply #24 on:** July 29, 2007, 04:26:39 PM »

Grind a little off the top side of the ejector, (the side opposite the lifter cap) that will allow the ejector to engauge the brass a little more. I had to do this with my 30 Carbine using the .223 ejector as the 30 Carbine case head is a little smaller than a .223 is. Larry

quickdtoo · « **Reply #25 on:** July 29, 2007, 04:33:34 PM »

Did you by chance forget the little lifter button spring?

Just checking!!

Tim

wtroger · « **Reply #26 on:** July 29, 2007, 04:53:21 PM »

Ok do I file the the entire barrel side of the ejector. And I did put the spring on top of the lifter button before I put the pin back in. Thanks guys appreciate it.

trotterlg · « **Reply #27 on:** July 29, 2007, 05:12:27 PM »

You do need to grind or file the full length, more at the ejector end, it can taper to no material removal at the other end, but it needs to be able to pivot up the full length of the ejector. Removing only at the rear will cause the middle to keep the ejector from moving up. Larry

wtroger · « **Reply #28 on:** July 30, 2007, 02:23:42 AM »

Thanks Larry will work on that this Evening.

trotterlg · « **Reply #29 on:** July 31, 2007, 04:53:49 PM »

OK, more pictures and an update please. This could call for a collection of stubbing pictures and a basic how to do it in general sticky. Larry