Blowback and misfires

[iowaforge]

 I finally found a load that shoots in my Sidekick.
 I was using 85 to 95 grains 777 and 200 to 300 grain bullets with different sabots , best group at 50 yards was 2.5"
 Then I upped the powder to 120 grains and produced a 1" group at 50 yards with open sights and a 200 grain , 10mm bullet.

 I've shot about 1lb of 777 through this gun , during my last two sessions I had several misfires where the primer had a small dent
 but didn't ignite. I repositioned these primers and they all fired. I'm using Winchester 777 primers.

 Questions,

  1,    Is there a way to clean the inside of the action/ firing pin area of blow back crud ?
 
  2,    Explain blow back , is it just the powder charge coming back through the ignition hole ,
         or is it the primer gas also ?

  3,    Is the fact that the primer is not fitted tightly in the breech plug  make for more blow back ? 
       
  4 ,   Would the 25 acp cure this ?

 I like this gun a lot , I shot my very first deer with it last season.  I am considering adding a small scope after I work through these
 other issues .

 Thanks, iowaforge
       
   

[PHATINJUN]

I know that when I went to the 25acp in my encore the blowback was almost noexistant haven't switched my huntsman's yet. Kurt

[Busta]

iowaforge,

#1 - Some use a can of carb cleaner, but you would want to remove your stock first. You would also need to re-lube everything inside.

#2 - Both

#3 - Yes

#4 - The .25 acp plug cures about 95 percent of the blow-back in my Huntsman. I wont ever be going back to 209's and the primer carriers. If someone made a carrier-less 209 breach plug, I would try it, but the .25 acp is going to be hard to beat.

I like my Huntsman too, and you wont regret going to the .25 acp plug.

[iowaforge]

Thanks for the replies.

Busta, and others, could you elaborate on cleaning the action ?

Should I remove the action from the butt stock ?

Is the recoil pad glued as well as screwed on ?
 
Should lube with oil or grease ?

I will also check the library for gunsmithing  books.

Thanks again iowaforge

[Busta]

iowaforge,

First I need to know if you have a Blued/wood, or Stainless/Nickel/Synthetic Sidekick.

I punch out my receiver pins once a year, and do a thorough cleaning. I have never had any rust issues in my nickel receiver using 777 powder. Since going to the .25 acp plug I don't even get any blowback in the firing pin channel.

If you use one of the gun cleaners/carb cleaners to clean the receiver, you will want to take off the stock first. Since I have never used this method, you should wait until someone that has give you his advice. There may be some issues with staining of the nickel or something along those lines.

The recoil pads are only screwed on, whether it be synthetic or wood stock.

I use Break-Free CLP for all my firearms, but Eezox is reported to be one of the best for fighting corrosion. I have never had any trouble with Break-Free CLP, but will give the Eezox a try next time I need oil.

http://www.break-free.com/

http://www.eezox.com/index.htm

http://www.thegunzone.com/rust.html

[iowaforge]

Busta, I have the blue/wood model.

I count 6 pins, 1 large hinge pin,  4 medium sized pins, and 1 small pin.

Do you press out the 4 medium and 1 small pin to gain access for cleaning ?

[Busta]

Busta, I have the blue/wood model.

I count 6 pins, 1 large hinge pin,  4 medium sized pins, and 1 small pin.

Do you press out the 4 medium and 1 small pin to gain access for cleaning ?

Go to the FAQ's in the Center-Fire Forum and read the trigger job sections. They will be able to show you with pictures what you need to disassemble to get to all the parts. You don't want to do anything with the hinge pin, because if you don't get the splines in the same spot, you will have lock-up issues. You can clean all around that with the barrel removed anyway. The best way is to mark (index) your pins so they go back the way they came out, but the hinge pin is the crucial one.

You will want to make up a couple slave pins for easy re-assembly of the inner parts. Without them, it can be a real bear.

The other option would be to get a cleaner, and spray and pray that you don't have any issues. With 777, I have never had a problem. If you use Pyrodex, you would probably have a problem. My experience with Pyrodex is it is a great powder, but you have to make sure you clean every bit of residue off or you will definately have a problem with corrosion.

If you press out pins, use a brass punch and go from right to left. They are splined on the left. Make sure you read the trigger job in the FAQ's first.

[iowaforge]

I read Perklo's post it seems quite detailed.

The Sidekick is getting a cleaning.

Thanks iowaforge

[Nessmuk#1]

I remove my stocks and only use the carb cleaner, simple and effective.  Without a good cleaning the action will start to fail to lock closed.  Break-free, Rem Oil, or any teflon oil should work well.