Accy Barrel or Whole Rifle?

[Mallard57]

  Hi,
  I'm in a bit of a dilemma, I have put away a Classic Target in 38-55 on layaway at Sportsman's Whse. and bought two bags of Winchester brass. I still owe a fair amount on it. I still want a 38-55 but I was wondering if I'd be better off sending my action  off my .44 Magnum Handy Rifle to H&R and getting the 38-55 barrel installed. Would I be losing that much by going that route? I still need dies, molds, sizing dies, and I have several surplus rifles that need these items also.
  The only reason I'm even considering  this is because after about 16 years the wife said she thought it would be a good idea to move out to our 20 acres (I've only been asking this for most of those 16 years), anyway I've got visions of my own personal range, motocross track, and room to do pretty much what I want. The problem is we'll be pretty much starting from scratch and I see having to spend lots of money( wish I had some).
  I would greatly appreciate some input.
                                                           Thanks,
                                                            Jeff

[quickdtoo]

Welcome aboard, Jeff!! I'm of the opinion that complete rifles are the way to go, but there are financial situations that always get in the way of that philosophy!! So getting an accessory barrel is the way to go for many and the main attraction of H&Rs for most Handiholics, they can have many chamberings without a lot of investment. That said, the 38-55 barrels comes without sights, so if you plan on using sights other than those available from H&R, there's merit in just ordering the barrel. If you want the WGRS or either of the Williams FP sights, H&R sells them for the best price you'll find, so you may want to order them at the same time you order the barrel. You also need to be aware of the comb height of the current stock you own, if it's a monte carlo, you most likely won't be able to use the iron sights, but would work fine for a scope on the 38-55 barrel which does come drilled and tapped, for which you should order their scope rail too.

Hope this helps,

Tim

[darat100]

I would say go for the entire rifle.  Much less hassle.   And besides, if the $150 makes any difference on moving to the farm, wow, that is cutting things too close!

[greg916]

i have a bad habit of stopping by our local wally world on the way to the ups store, i'm up to six now. . but i promise i'm really gonna order just the 45 colt barrel. maybe   

[bluebayou]

i was always a firm believer in the accessory barrel.  BUT, now this 357 barrel is the 3rd on the same frame (223 and 44 were on it too) and this will be the 3rd time that I have to sand and ream the forearm to fit. Green Mountain must be making the barrels progressively larger.  Marlin, whoever.

I fixed the scope from moving with Quick's address label trick, but shooting some new loads today they walked straight down the page.  That coupled with it taking 2 hands to remove the forearm tells me that it is out of tolerance.

That is the nuts and bolts of it.  The NEF is not machined well enough even to be consisitently fitted by the factory.  Flame on.

[quickdtoo]

Add another label or some super glue!!   Maybe you're not getting your ring screws tight enough, most ring mfrs recommend 25 in/lbs, which is more than most would think it is by feel, it's pretty tight when using a screwdirver type tool, not much when you have some leverage on it tho. I put the Nikon Prostaff on the 500 S&W in lapped Leupold QRWs and used the labels in the bottom rings, they've held up to a bunch of heavy loads including the 700gr Ranger Rick bullets at over 1400fps.

Tim

[poncaguy]

   I have 15 Handi rifles.............complete!

[greg916]

Tryin' to catch up with Tim are ya?

[quickdtoo]

Larry's got a loooooooooong way to go to catch up, I just bought number 36 or 37, not sure, forgot!!

Tim

[bluebayou]

Not to hijack your thread, but I didn't speak clearly.  The scope is firmly mounted, thanks again.  The problem is that the barrel is heating up and the shot are walking on the target.  The lug is very tight on the receiver side of the hole in the forearm. 

This is my reason for voting for whole rifles instead of accessory barrels.  MAYBE one additional barrel to a frame, but otherwise you can only get one barrel "just right" and the other accessory barrels would be compromised.  If the barrels have different outside diameters and even .100 variation in the placement of the lug then the forearm doesn't bolt on the same. 

[cwlongshot]

Add another label or some super glue!!   Maybe you're not getting your ring screws tight enough, most ring mfrs recommend 25 in/lbs, which is more than most would think it is by feel, it's pretty tight when using a screwdriver type tool, not much when you have some leverage on it tho. I put the Nikon Pro-staff on the 500 S&W in lapped Leupold QRWs and used the labels in the bottom rings, they've held up to a bunch of heavy loads including the 700gr Ranger Rick bullets at over 1400fps.

Tim

 Blue,
 I agree with Tim. I don't mean to belittle you problems. I really do know how frustrating it can be. I have fixed these and many more "problems" for guys with guns for years and years. Here is a bit of back ground on me, I have worked in the firearms industry for more than half my life.(Almost 25yrs) I have been to armours school for the 1911 pistol, the Glock pistol and the 870 rem shotgun. I am an NRA instructor in shotgun and pistol. I am classified a NRA master in 22 bullseye pistol and an NRA expert in center-fire pistol. I have shot countless perfect scores on the trap fields, with all but the 410. I have shot in IPSC and IDPA matches. I have many awards from the old Chevy Truck Challenge matches. I don't mean to blow my own horn here. I just want you to know I am not just blowing smoke. I have been there and done that.

 I have mounted countless thousands of scopes on my own and my customers rifles, pistols, shotguns and muzzle-loaders. If I have learned anything, I have learned the hard way that you just cannot skimp on some things. I really like these PRW rings from Leupold. (I think you are using the rifleman series of ring) I have PRW's or QRW's on every center-fire rifle that has a scope and a weaver base on it. I shoot some heavy calibers and never had a hint of one moving. Not a single one has anything between the ring and the tube of the scope. Burris ZEE rings are another popular model and they are also very good. i just prefer the PRW's.

 Years back I had some issues with a Contender 357Herrett. I had three rings and still had issues. That was the mid-late 80's when those alum. Bushnell thin rings where the style....(crap really) I went to the BURRIS ZEE ring (Only two) and EPOXIED and re-drilled, tapped for larger screws,(#8) the base on the barrel. I actually sheared off the #6 screws holding the base on the barrel!!! Problems with scope movement and base issues where GONE.

I use one PRW on two of my Bullseye pistols. It hold zero and doesn't move a fraction year after year.



 Is your scope tube damaged from old mounting? If not I really think the PRW's will solve your problems.

PM me if you like, I would really like to help you get thru this problem.

 CW

[quickdtoo]

Oh, ok, that makes more sense, thought maybe the scope was slipping again!!

Yes, forends that are dedicated to the barrel and frame would definitely make a difference in consistency. I've done so much swapping around that I had to make a list with serial numbers and barrels to keep track of things when I swap out stocks and barrels to try on other frames. Getting the wrong forend on a barrel can severely change POI and accuracy.

Tim