have 4 dies; one marked TC for 475L ...what ; how ; why ?

[kennisondan]

What would the TC marked die be ? How do I use it ? It looks like it has a smaller step down area part way down it, so it could be a crimp. Hornady dies. fits 480 and 475.
unlcear on the crimp and seat stages. to do separately I just back out the bullet seater and adjust the crimp ? it is rather unclear to me.. seems my old set for 44 : i jsut set it and it crimped and seated at the same time .. but that is not suggested any more?
WTH?
thanks is advance. I just do not want to lose too many cases without having a good idea of how to proceed. the directions with the hornady dies indicates three dies included but Marsh sent me 4 with the gun..have Lyman and Lee books but still not exactly clear what to do.. want a tight crimp and need to be careful with the FA Cylinder tolerances.
dk

[paul105]

DK,

Seat and crimp in two separate operations.  Use the bullet seating die to seat your bullets to the top of the cannelure/crimp grove (so you can barely see the top of the cannelure/crimp grove).

Assuming you are using Hornady dies, the TC die is a combination taper crimp and roll crimp die.  With a seated bullet in the shell holder, and the press handle all the way down (ram/seated bullet in shell holder all the way up), screw the die into the press until it stops.  Continue screwing the die in until you see a definite roll crimp in the cannelure/crimp grove.  You will feel resistence before you obtain a roll crimp -- this is the taper crimp section of the die doing its work.  You may also have to move the handle up (loaded round down, away from die) in order to continue screwing the die into the press.  Do this a little bit at a time (half a turn at a time at first, then less as necessary) to get the crimp you want.  If you get to a point where you really have to force the handle, stop and back the die off a bit (otherwise, you may buckle the case).  Just go slow the first time, and you'll get the hang of it.

Paul

[kennisondan]

thanks Paul; the hornady site just says that the taper crimp is for making auto feeding smoother.. combination, is good that sounds great to me.. ready to load .
dk

[gypsyman]

This sounds alot like the Redding Profile crimp die. Made for cartridge's that have more recoil. I adjust mine down to where you should just start to get a shiney ring at the top of the case. Then I back it off, usually less than 1/8 of a turn. Bullet has already been seated in the previous step. Excellent die for lager handguns, and the case lenght doesn't have to quite so critical. First part of the crimp is taper, then goes into a roll crimp. gypsyman

[kennisondan]

Gypsyman : so the crimp die is a combination, taper and roll crimp also, as described above ? or do you use a different die to roll crimp ? this 475 may have sufficient recoil to move the bullets out without a heavy roll crimp. what is your opinion ? When you back off from getting the shiny ring what is next ? do you still get a roll crimp in addition ?
thanks
dk

[paul105]

DK,

Keep screwing in the TC die until you get a roll crimp that looks like this or a little heavier.







Paul

[gypsyman]

Paul105 has his adjusted just a hair more than what I usually do. But this might be do to the fact he might be loading a little hotter than my loads. Probably has more recoil than me. Just personal preference, and what works for accuracy. I use that type of die for my .357,/reg and max./ .375sm./.44 and .445sm.  Good Luck!! -  gypsyman

[kennisondan]

Paul Gypsyman and others who answer(ed) :
Thanks. A Lot. I just put together my first 475L dummy round. It looks great. I can kind of see the lube grooves marked on the brass.. or it appears like it. It fits in the FA chamber and is just short of the end of the cylinder. Drops in Drops out.. My crimp is not quite as tight as Yours Paul, but close to it. I will load up a few rounds to try to be sure they do not back out during recoil. Will shoot one round reload shoot that chamber again, etc until the remaining rounds have ridden through eight or ten recoil cycles and check them for lengthening. If they lengthen then I will crimp harder/tighter. When I go to a more powerful load I will repeat the crimp testing process. -- think I ought to use the factory loads to test the handloads with ? Just wondering.
I really appreciate the fact you guys responded. I can figure it all out again, but this gives confidence and avoids any waste almost at all.
My purpose is not to stress the brass too much, but hold the bullets in place. I will likely not be shooting the hottest loads this coming year at all.
I am really excited about getting the dies adjusted and producing this first test dummy round.. Kinda silly I guess, but it is true. Have not reloaded in many years.