Fitting\Bedding the Model 12 action to the BVSS stock

[Davemuzz]

I just purchased a Stevens Model 12 Action, new and unfired along with a Stevens factory (new as well) BVSS laminated stock. The stock has the factory aluminum pillar bedding columns inserted into it. Now, this is my first "assembly" of pieces of a rifle, so I have a few question.

Now, when I place the receiver into the stock, the back part of the receiver (where the safety is) does not lay flush with the stock. So, when I "lay" a straight edge in the stock, it first appears that I would need to remove some material from the rear pillar column and stock.

However, I don't have a barrel for the gun\action yet, so I really can't tell if that is the proper thing to do. I'm not sure if I cut\remove the material and have the receiver now flush in the back, when I have a barrel installed, the front of the barrel will have a half-inch of space between it and the stock. And, I am unsure if I can simply gently tap the front aluminum column upwards, and then permanately seal the columns with a bedding epoxy. I don't want to start whacking on the pillar columns to find out they are already in there permantely.

So, I think at this point, I have 2 questions: (1) are the pillar columns that are now in the stock movable? (2) should I wait until I have a barrel attached to the receiver before I attempt to fit the receiver to the stock?

Thanks much.

Dave

[trotterlg]

The pillars can be moved however they will then be broken and you will have to fix them.  I have never seen a Stevens in a wood stock, sure that is what you have?  Get a barrel on it before you start fitting anything or you will have to do it twice.  Up and down plus right and left will need to be adjusted most likely.  Larry

[gunnut69]

I've not worked on a Stevens but they're pretty much a 110 variant. trotterig is right about the barrel though. It must be installed before the thing can be inlet.. The pillars set and maintain the distance between the action and the bottom metal. They can be adjusted but shouldn't need to be at least as for length. Is the bottom of the pillar flush with the inlet for the bottom metal? Most pillars are epoxied into the stock as so to move them apply heat to the metal, not the stock, and move as you wish. Pillars are just spacers, not much else. They are simple and are to help maintain the correct distance between the action and bottom metal.. They are also not new having been first used commonly(in my limited knowledge) by Mauser well over a hundred years ago. If you wish to remove them or just move them a bit a piece of steel (large mail??) can be set against one end and a torch applied. The heat transfer will be from the rod(nail) to the pillar and the epoxy will release at a fairly low temperature. The pillar can then be tapped up or down. The action should be flush with the surface of the stock but most drop in stocks, aren't..

[Davemuzz]

The stock is not wood. It's a wood Laminated. In fact, it's the same stock that is on this model 12 that is on the Savage web site: http://www.savagearms.com/12bvss.htm

The rear pillar protrudes just above the laminate about 1\32", but the front pillar is recessed into the stock about 1\16". I've always thought that the pillar should be in direct contact with the receiver.

So, if that's the case...then I figure I have two options" (1) move the existing front pillar so that it protrudes above the laminate....or (2) cut a small piece of another pillar to extend the existing pillar (via epoxy and bedding) so that it extends and gets to the same place.

Option (2) would be a bit "easier"  to do than the "nail\heat\whack\don't screw up the laminated stock" method. And it should hold being the receiver screw will have the constant pressure applied to it.

But....please "shoot" holes in this...or tell me it's ok (which would be "option #3) to leave the front pillar as is and just bed it the way it is.

Thanks.

Dave

[trotterlg]

It is not OK for the pillar not to contact the action.  Either remove wood to get to the pillar or space the pillar up, in which case you will probably need a longer action screw.  Larry

[LaOtto222]

Glad to hear you got the Savage action/stock. I am with trotterlg on this. I would "shim" up the front pillar. You can do this by using a washer of the appropriate size and then epoxy it in. Do it after you get your barrel set on. I have pillar bedded actions and I always screw the pillars to the action, then epoxy them in so the action is not touching wood by making shims to hold the action up slightly and clamping in the action until the epoxy sets. I have used JB Weld and shoe polish as a release agent. Then my next step is to remove some wood around the action (not the pillars) and bed the action in the stock with the pillars supporting the action. That way I always have contact with the pillars. Good luck to you.

[gunnut69]

Does the front pillar extend into the inlet below?? Does the rear pillar protrude below? The pillars, to be effective must touch BOTH the action and the bottom metal.. Otherwise they won't be spacers.. In any case the action should be barreled before you proceed..

[Davemuzz]

A picture is worth.......

Here is a picture of the front pillar:




And here is the rear pillar:




As far as answering your question "do they extend below"...I'm not quite sure what your asking....if you mean do they stick out of the bottom of the stock, the answer is no.

Thanks.

Dave

[gunnut69]

The pillars are OK. The bottom of the rounded receiver will contact the very top of both pillars. If the bottom of the pillars is also flush with the inleting you're good to go. The pillars must touch the action and since they're not contoured they will only touch on a small portion. If the rear of the action is proud of the wood then the pillars may need to be modified. Usually the wood is a bit high, allowing the stock to be fitted to the metal.

[bluebayou]

I don't have any pillar bedding experience, but I have epoxy bedded 4 rifles of different makes.  The Savage has the barrel nut to pay attention to.  It was easy to get epoxy into the cutouts of the nut.

My big debate with the Savage action is the unbedded tang.  The Stevens that I bedded had 1/8" gap between the receiver tang and the stock.  Most everyone that I read said to leave it floating.  I bedded it with a screw into the tang area of the stock and some epoxy bridge up to make contact.  Call me wacky.  It worked, but I don't know if it made a difference honestly.

If I am off topic here, then let me know.  I hear bedding and think "epoxy", but no one has mentioned epoxy yet. 

[Davemuzz]

BB,

No, any input is a help. I have been doing some extensive reading on bedding and I believe the product I am going to use is Devcon plastic steel putty. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=647161

Right now the tang on my action is "sticking up" higher that I like. Once I have the action barreled, I will have a better idea of what I need to do with that. Again, like you have stated, the tang should be "floated" and not tight against the stock. That's fine, but right now when I place the receiver on the pillar's, you and I can pull a picnic table under the tang to avoid the rain. The gap is too big for my taste. Just wouldn't look professional.

So, I'll make it look good and still float. Anyone see that portable handsaw....with the big carbide blade?...yeah....we can make that cut!!!!!

Dave

[LaOtto222]

I found that my Stevens recoil lug was not touching to the rear or bottom. I used JB Weld to fill the gaps. I did this with the plastic stock that came with it and a laminated stock I got from Boyd's Stocks. I use JB Weld for my bedding work and epoxying in pillars when I need to. Why have a recoil lug if it just hangs in space? By doing the bottom and the back side of it, it helps support the barrel weight and helps keep the action in place. I have run some out under the barrel a little for extra support when I can (about 1.5" - 2"). In your case, Dave, do not bed in the recoil lug until you have the action down to where you are satisfied. Then bed in the recoil lug. I think bedding in the recoil lug is very important to accuracy. BTW I use Kiwi Neutral  shoe polish as a release agent with JB Weld. Just rub on a good coat on every thing you not want to stick. I have not had an issue with it releasing.

[gunnut69]

Generally the recoil lug should only touch at the rear. I use a bit of tape such as masking tape applied to the lug. If the bottom of the lug touches it can do weird things down the road to accuracy. I believe it can torque the action as the bolts tighten and the stock gives a bit. It adds nothing to barrel support and is easy to eliminate. To help support the barrel bed the first 2-3 ionches of the barrel itself. Then coat the hole thing with release agent. I use wax as a release agent. It provides a thin coating that releases easily.. As to the rear tang I usually just leave it be. That said I dislike huge gaps..  The last I put together was a 30-06 for a friend. The first groups were easily under 1/2 inch! And by the way..laminated stocks ARE wood. Not completely but at least mostly.. They are warm like wood, not cold like plastic and as stable as a rock..