You could try a temporary shim made from a feeler gauge blade on the shelf to see if it still does it, then you'd know if the latch engagement is too much or not. I don't think that's the issue, but each rifle can be different, it could also be a soft latch, one of the fixes reported by some after a repair has been made is "reharden catch" which is what H&R calls the latch. I'd call and see what Gordon says, it would be good info to learn, too.
It could also be frame flex from too hot of load. The 300WSM barrel did that, after the shot, there was a perceivable gap tween barrel and frame right at the top where it's the widest and easiest to see, what happens is the case head thrust causes the frame to flex enough that it puts the latch in a bind when the case expands to the rear then jams the action slightly open against the spent case. You'll be able to see the gap if you look for it before you break it open, look for a gap at the top from the side, I've never measured it, but I'd say it's .001"-.002".
Tim