Mortar Bingo

[Terry C.]

Here is an idea for a new game that I would like to put out there and get your feedback on.

Mortar Bingo.

So far these are the rules I have for this game (feel free to offer any suggestions or criticisms):

A grid of squares would be made with pegs and string. The grid would consist of 25 equal sized squares, laid out 5x5 like a bingo card.

The object of the game is to shoot mortar balls (or whatever ammunition you use for particular mortar) into the squares. Just like on the game card, five squares in a straight line = BINGO.

Least number of total shots (hits and misses) to BINGO wins. In case of a tie, least number of misses determines the winner.

Shots that come to rest in an unoccupied square are hits. Shots outside the grid or into a square that already has a ball in it are misses (a square can only be 'hit' once).

A perfect score would be BINGO in five shots. Not sure if there should be a maximum limit on shots, I guess that would depend on your supply of balls and powder.

Because this contest would be open to ALL mortars, it might be best to have more than one range and grid size, based on either caliber or ammo type. Here is where I need input from the more experienced mortarmen.

There would also be some rule variations to work out. One that I thought of would involve a ball that's sitting in a square with one or more other balls, getting struck and knocked into an unoccupied square. I believe that should be scored as a hit.


So what say? Would anyone be interested in giving this game a shot (pun)?

[Terry C.]

I should add: Even though there will be rules, this is intended to be a fun game not to be taken too seriously.

It's as much a game of chance as skill, since it depends in large part on the 'spread' we all got when we were shooting for the pin.

[lance]

count me in, i like a good game whatever it might be............ what do you think about 4 foot squares, range 50yds?? that should be a good challenge for any size mortar. don't kill me now, i'm just throwing out thoughts.............. can i use lime to mark off the grid.

[Terry C.]

Fifty yards is fine by me, I'll be shooting the golfball mortar. Hopefully I'll have better results with a little more powder than I was using at thirty. Others will have to weigh in with their opinions.

I came up with the string and pegs idea because that's what I would use. I'll have to be able to restore my shooting area to it's original condition when I'm finished. Otherwise I would just use a can of spraypaint.

Anything you want to use is fine, as long as it will make a grid.

Well, maybe not the cow dung...


PS: Something to consider is that the lines need to be sharp and clean, or you could end up with balls 'on the line' between squares. The line markers that they use on the local ball field draw lines that are wider than a golfball.

[lance]

i like lime cause it helps the grass, also figured TIM would trip on the string........ he was like a kid in a toy store, oh! look here's a pile now if i can get him over here with his big mortars, i think 50yds 4 foot squares will be fun for golf balls, beer cans, cement filled pvc sections, even full size mortars. but!!! i will follow to the letter whatever rules and range and square size you establish. this is your game, i'm just wanting to play and have fun .................................you are right, scratch the lime. i do have several hundred feet of mountain climbing rope,old hobby, anyway........... how about laying the rope on the ground?

[Double D]

You guys are starting to get with this.  Great.

I guess I will just have to expedite getting a 1.68 round ball mould to cast zinc .

By the way guys.  When you are rounding up wheel weights at your favorite tire shop for casting bullets.  Keep you eye open as some of the weights now used on tires are made from zinc.  When you melt the lead keep your temperature down and the weights that float to the top and don't melt are zinc.  You don't want them in your bullet lead anyway.

[lance]

TERRY C, i'll use string and stakes too, was just trying to be lazy........ what do you think? 4 foot squares, range 50yds as standard for all mortars and kinds of ammo. if Tim comes over can we shoot at the same grid at the same time? if one of my golf balls knocks one of his cement filled cans out of the square, well that will just add excitement to the game. i guess all that matters is who yells BINGO first.

[Terry C.]

what do you think? 4 foot squares, range 50yds as standard for all mortars and kinds of ammo.

That's fine by me.

My concern was with smaller mortars shooting lead ammo. You have experience with that, so I will defer to your judgment. I don't have a small-bore mortar, other than the micro from Kap, yet.  Keyword = yet! (new project on the board)

if Tim comes over can we shoot at the same grid at the same time? if one of my golf balls knocks one of his cement filled cans out of the square, well that will just add excitement to the game.

Uh, yeah.

Are you going to be shooting the new depleted uranium golfballs?

also figured TIM would trip on the string........

If you use electric fence wire instead of string, he probably won't do it twice...   

[lance]

Hey, got lots of that electric white tape horse fence, white so they can see it good, and they don't touch it twice either!!...............I picked 50yds based on some of the mortars at THE BATTLE OF THE CRATER.  Capt.LAMKIN'S MORTAR BATTERY moved two 12pd mortars to 50yds from the CRATER. .....MAJOR HASKELL had 16 mortars, most all 12pd. they were anywhere from 100yds to 400yds from the CRATER, all were dropping them in it. when HASKELL saw LAMKIN move to 50yds, he came to help out. HASKELL'S account was that they moved to 20yds, but i think LAMKIN stayed at 50yds............ anyway they did it with real mortar ammo................ i'm not looking at this game as BINGO, but i will try and get 5 of "them" in a row    i know golfballs, lead balls, cast iron balls,all weights and sizes will drop 50yds too!

[Cat Whisperer]

I LIKE the idea of 50 yards MUCH better!

(Based on the recent battle of the meadow muffins and road apples!)

[lance]

Tim, they were Horse Apples and Donkey Droppings!............ glad you like 50yds, your big mortars are welcome here ya know.           Terry C, what do you think about no practice rounds? they didn't get any at The Battle Of The Crater. i think every shot should be counted up till Bingo is yelled.

[Terry C.]

I'll have to fire a couple of test shots, to make sure the balls aren't going to get caught in the trees at 50 yds.

Had plenty of room overhead at 30, but I'll be catching more air at 50. If the trees interfere with the trajectory, I'll have to find another site for BINGO. But this will be done with no grid, so it won't really be "practice" for me.


All of my longer range shooting has been done elsewhere, but for this many shots I want to be close to home. For the 'moon' shots, I took the mortar to work. where we have a wide (double-track) railroad right of way that curves behind the shop, then extends in a straight line for several hundred yards before it curves again. There is more than one golfball mixed in their rockbed.


A "no practice" rule may scare away some potential participants, many of whom have shiny new mortars that haven't been fired much (if at all).

I think "no practice on the day of the match" (with no restrictions on practice before match day) would be preferable, but I'll go with whatever the majority wants.


How does a Nov. 1 deadline sound?

[lance]

 It's your game, if you want pratice shots in it, might as well do it the day of the game. i was just thinking about the troops, they didn't get to pratice during the battle. now that i'm thinking about it, seems like i read that a few fell short and they really got a cussing ...........NOV 1 sounds good to me.......

[seacoastartillery]

Enough said.

[lance]

Tracy and Mike,no need to say much, you guys have a way with "words"

[Terry C.]

Youch! The "biggest gun" gauntlet has been thrown! Who shall challenge?

It's your game

Okay, here goes (in other words: you asked for it)...

I've been extensively studying the game of BINGO (looking at pictures of BINGO cards on Google).

As already decided, the grid is 20' x 20', divided into 25 squares each measuring 4' x 4'. An aiming stake should be placed dead center. The range is 50 yards from mortar to stake.



All of the BINGO cards have one thing in common, the FREE SPACE square in the middle.

I wasn't sure how to incorporate this into the game, since the FREE SPACE is right in the center of the grid where the aiming stake will be. Surely there should be some reward for putting a shot near the stake?

So I've come up with a new twist, the FREE SPACE bonus. Or as I prefer to call it, the LUCKY 13 (you'll see why when you look at my score card below).



Landing a shot in the FREE SPACE requires you to shoot within 2 feet of the aiming stake. Hitting this center square earns you another free square anywhere on the card. You can only use this bonus three times, and once you pick a square you're stuck with it. The reason for the three bonus limit is that even with the free square and three perfectly picked bonus squares (like that's gonna happen) you would still have to score at least one strategically placed shot somewhere on the grid to get BINGO.

I'm posting between severe thunderstorms here (had a tornado a few miles away last night), so that's all for now. Tomorrow I'm going to consolidate everything into a single post, and then it's time to shut my yap and shoot my mortar.

[seacoastartillery]

     Found that 2"X 600 Ft. orange tape in the hardware section at Lowe's for around $3.00.   Should be very visible at 50 yards.  Tent stakes should hold it down even in a breeze.  Haven't fired the old South Bend Replica's one-half scale 8", 1797 Mortar for more than five years now.  Never put bags of fertilizer on your mortar bed, even in dry storage.  What a mess!  Soap and water and a little gloss black should fix it right up.  With a four inch bore, our sand cast, malleable iron balls weigh right at 9.5 Lbs.  We have used white, orange and gloss black paint, but, being traditionalists, we like black best.  Should be very, very interesting.  ANY EXCUSE TO GO SHOOTING!!!    

     You guys look like you have the rules well thought out.  Can't wait to see the final set.  I just made a note to invite the strapping 17 year old son and a couple of his friends along for the day of shooting tomorrow.  Guess who gets to lug the mortar tube and bed around!  The tube is about 200 Lbs.  Mike and I shot a little over half a ton of concrete out of it in the last twenty years so the tube is well proved.  Reasonable charges of 1 to 4 oz. based on range desired were what we shot.  The balls go farther on 1 oz. than the old concrete filled oil cans did, just about 100 yards.  We will start with extra wimpy loads, about 75 grains, and gradually add more powder until the balls reach 50 yards. 

Any excuse to go shooting,

Mike and Tracy

 

[Double D]

Question? Score?  Where shot hit's--where shot rests?  Won't apply to T&M S-Hit/S-Rest should be the same, more or less.

To bad they didn't drag this out earlier, they could have WALKED THE WALK!!!!!

[Terry C.]

Shots that come to rest in an unoccupied square are hits.

Where they come to rest is where they score.

Or in M&T's case, where the big hole is in the ground.

[Cat Whisperer]

The rules do look good.

If 4 mortar teams show up they could easily be expanded to "Team Bingo" or left the same for singles.

I would add the rule: "No explosive rounds to be used."

[Terry C.]

Team BINGO? That's a new idea, got any suggestions?


Yes I will include a "no exploding projectiles" rule.

(CAUTION: humor)

Also a "single projectile" rule. Otherwise Tracy & Mike might be tempted to load up that big mortar with a dozen golfballs and go BINGO in one shot!


I suppose for the hardcore medievalists, I should also include:

No baskets of stones or metal shards.
No preheated shot, boiling oil or tar, or molten metals.
No Greek Fire or any other chemical incendiary.
No dead, diseased animal carcasses or parts thereof.
No bees, wasps, scorpions, or other stinging insects.
No fecal matter (sorry Tim & Lance).

 

[Terry C.]

Here are the rules for the game. This applies to singles only, should there be a team match an addendum will be added.
_______


Basic rules:

1) First and foremost, be safe. Everyone here has access to the best cannon and mortar shooting information on the web. Use good judgment and follow the rules of safety. If you are unsure of anything, look it up or ask for help. There are no dumb safety questions.

2) Have fun. This is a game, not a formal competition. There is no pressure, other than your own competitive spirit, to perform. The purpose of the game is fellowship and friendly competition. In the end it's really just an excuse to get out and shoot and any score is a good score.

3) You are on your honor. There are no judges or referees, nor is there a need for them. All among us are honorable and fit to be taken at their word. In the highly unlikely event of a dispute, see rule #2.

Competition:

This mortar shooting game is based on the game of BINGO. The object of the game is to score five squares in a straight line, front to back, side to side, or diagonally.

The game is open to any mortar of sound construction that falls within the guidelines of this forum, no minimum or maximum caliber.

The target is a grid measuring 20 feet x 20 feet, divided into 25 equal squares each measuring 4 feet x 4 feet. An aiming stake is to be placed at the center of the grid.



Construction of the grid is at your discretion, use whatever materials you have access to. String, marking tape, and lightweight cord are all suitable. Pegs or stakes should be adequately strong to support your lines and keep them taught.

The range is 50 yards (as close as you can measure) from the mortar to the aiming stake.

As many (or few) practice rounds as desired may be fired up until the beginning of the actual match. Once the scorecard comes out, every shot from that point forward counts.

The mortar may be be moved as necessary for cleaning, loading, and aiming, but should remain as close to it's original position as possible for the course of the match.

Only one projectile (of a commonly accepted construction method) of the proper caliber will be fired at a time.  No unconventional, unsafe, or illegal ammunition (such as explosive or incendiary bombs) is allowed. To simplify these rules, from this point forward all projectiles will be referred to as balls, even those made from soda cans, PVC pipe, etc.

Black powder (or commercial BP substitute) only. No "magic recipes."

Balls will be scored where they come to rest.

Scoring:

The deadline for submitting a score is November 1, 2007.
UPDATE: Deadline extended to Dec. 1, 2007.

This scorecard should be used to score the game. As seen from the shooting position, the #1 square is the far left corner of the grid.

Hits are recoded in the boxes at the top left of each square. Misses are recorded in the boxes along the bottom of the card. There are also three boxes in the FREE SPACE to record bonuses.



A ball that comes to rest in a previously unoccupied square is scored as a hit. A ball that comes to rest outside the grid or in a space already scored (except for FREE SPACE) is marked as a miss. A square can only be scored once.

The FREE SPACE is the #13 square at the center of the grid, where the aiming stake is placed. This free square does not have to be 'hit' to count towards BINGO.

Any ball that comes to rest in the FREE SPACE earns the shooter a "LUCKY 13" bonus, which allows you to choose another free square anywhere on the card. You may only score up to three bonus squares, and once they're marked they can't be changed. In the unlikely event that the FREE SPACE is hit a fourth time, it's simply ignored. It can't be scored as a bonus but it isn't marked as a miss.

Five squares in a straight line is BINGO, and the game ends. You may yell out BINGO, which is traditional, if you wish. But if there's no one there to hear you...

A contestant may shoot as many matches as they desire and have the time, but separately not concurrently. Each match must end before the next one can begin (this doesn't apply to multiple contestants sharing a grid). If a contestant shoots more than one match, all scores should be submitted.

Once the game is closed and all scores have been submitted, the winner is determined by adding hits and misses. The FREE SPACE is not counted. The contestant with the lowest total wins.

(Since bonuses are also marked as hits, they are not counted except as a final tiebreaker)

In the event of a tie, the fewest misses wins.

If there is still a tie, then the most bonuses scored determines the winner.

If a winner still cannot be determined, then a draw is declared.

[lance]

Terry C, everything looks great!!! can i use more than one mortar to play a game? shouldn't matter as long as i count all shots. but you the boss, and i'll follow the rules...................Tim, think you can come over sometime and play bingo? Terry C said no Horse Apples

[Double D]

...You may yell out BINGO, which is traditional, if you wish. But if there's no one there to hear you...

I love this!!!!

Terry,

Reach around and pat yourself on the back.  You done good!!!

[seacoastartillery]

     Terry C., we think you did a fine job as well.  It took us only one reading of the final, official rules to understand that we can shout BINGO at this time.  Sunday afternoon was completely overcast in northern Colorado, so it was a good mortar shooting time without that sun in yours eyes distraction.  We will post our results and quite a few pictures, hopefully to inspire anyone with a functional mortar, within the board guidelines, to join in the fun.  Despite being sore all over from dragging heavy pieces of iron and oak around all afternoon, both Mike and I really appreciated the opportunity to just get out and do it.  We had fun!  We also firmly believe that even Golf Ball Mortar newbies, which we still are, could beat our results without too much trouble.  Fortunately we had a wind from our backs blowing directly at the Bingo card grid.  It was about 15 to 20 mph all afternoon.  We used 1Fg powder and standard 1/8th inch green cannon fuse. 

     Firing a super-wimpy load of 61 grs. to start, we got 28 yards for the first shot, about half-way to the flag stake. 
The second shot went way over by about 40 yards!  We figured one short, one long, one right alongside.  Well 300 grains, (five Lee powder scoops of 61 grs. each) was definitely too much.  So, we tried 150 with a combination of other scoops.  Short again, but not so bad at only 12 yards short.
We did this for five more shots until we found that 200 grs, propelled the 9.5 lb. ball to 50 yards with some regularity.  We made a measure out of the little plastic cup inside a paint spray can top, with a little trimming.  What the heck, if your in the field, you do what you need to do to get the job done.

     The next 8 shots produced four on target up the center row with four, and one off to the right one row at the far edge and two more just barely short and one more just barely long.  Take a look at the photos, we believe that you can readily see than our mortar is like most, which are really good on having little deflection issues, but are notoriously tough to shoot accurately when it comes to range or distance. 

Regards,

Mike and Tracy


If your tube weighs 200 lbs. you have to know where your toes are at all times!





A little grunt gets it up on the ramp, and, with the vent toward the bed, it is crabbed up to the bed where a 180 deg. flip is accomplished and the capsquares are slapped on and bolted down.





Ready to load.





The unpainted oak quoin shown gets the elevation from 45 to 60 degs.





The 4" ball is clearly in view here as it flys toward the BINGO grid.





We saw that the ball was going a bit to the left of the stake here.





The handspike is used to move the rear of the bed about 1/4 inch to the left.





Looks like this one is going to hit pretty close to the center row.





The gunner's quadrant shown here is used to elevate the tube to about 60 degs.  EXACT elevation to 60 degs. is not important at this extremely close range.





Ammo crates like this one are divided by 1 x 4"  boards into 10 equal  spaces for mortar balls.





A view of the grid showing several 'SHORT' rounds.





Looking back toward the mortar position from one of the LONG rounds.





The BINGO grid showing the five balls that landed inside.





We put the quadrant up against the tube to show that after a little firing that the tube's elevation is closer to 58 deg. rather than 60 deg.  Even on rock hard ground, you must build a mortar platform in order to do accurate shooting.





So, we have 4 LONG and 4 SHORT and 5 up the center of the grid for a total of 13 shots.  We think we have a BINGO here.  So get out and shoot your mortars!  Then you can yell BINGO too!!  Have some fun.

Regards,

Mike and Tracy











T

[Terry C.]

You guys didn't waste any time! Great photos!

As the rules were written, you should choose your bonus square as soon as you score a hit on the center square, before you shoot again. But you shot your match before the final rules were posted, so you cannot be held to that. You are free to use your bonus as you see fit.

So, you officially have BINGO on this game!

You have five hits and one bonus.

How many of the shots outside the grid were practice, and how many are you scoring as misses?


I see I'm not the only one that uses the Lee dippers. I think I paid about $15 for mine and they were a great investment.

Thanks for your support and you participation, hopefully you will inspire (shame, even) some others to get out and shoot.

If the weather cooperates, I'm going to try to shoot this coming weekend.

[seacoastartillery]

Terry C.,   We need to count all the balls outside the grid as misses.  We were completely unaware of what powder charge it would take to get a ball into the grid, and we were hoping that the very first load of 61 grains would do it.  Previously we had only shot at 100 to 800 yards, never at less than 100.  If the first shot had impacted inside one of those squares we would have counted it!!  So all eight, outside the grid, shots should be scored as misses.  We like Lee dippers too.  When we find a load that works well at a known distance, then we go ahead and make a brass or copper scoop for that particular charge.  We hope that by doing this shooting early, that we will inspire others to give it a try.  We also believe firmly that concrete shooters have a really good chance for a good score at this short distance, as do golf ball shooters.  At ranges over three hundred yards, we really couldn't hit too much with those old style oil cans full of concrete.  At 100 yards they were deadly!!!

     Thanks for designing a great contest, a really fun contest.  More hope for GB Mortar shooters.  Remember that a given ball can just as easily roll into a scoring square as roll out of one.

Good luck to all.  Get out and have fun!


Tracy and Mike

[lance]

GREAT PICTURES !!! Mike and Tracy, Great Score too!!!  wonder what the prairie dogs thought when those heavy balls shook the ground?......... don't know when i'll get to play? kinda waiting to see what Tim has to say. Mike and Tracy, you have inspired me for sure  

[Artilleryman]

Mike and Tracey, Nice set of photos, and a great looking mortar.  It may not make a difference with this mortar, but a suggestion when using a handspike on a heavy mortar.  Place the handspike on the side away from you when adjusting from side to side.  When you place it closest to you it tends to lift the mortar bed causing the other side to dig in. 

Thanks for sharing your photos.

[seacoastartillery]

     Lance,   Thanks for your kind words.  If there were any dogs around they would be thinking "bottom of the burrow, NOW!"  As for your shooting partner, Tim, don't wait for him to call.  You call him and say, " Tim have you got all those plastic pipes sawed up?  I don't hear your concrete mixer in the background.  Come on now; Fire it UP; Fill those Pipe sections!  We ARE going shooting!  Just a few words of encouragement; that's all you need.  Glad to have inspired you, not that YOU really needed any, or Tim either, for that matter!  Hope you guys can yell BINGO really soon.

     Artilleryman,   now everyone knows why we keep you with us!  Mike and I sure do appreciate that tip.  Knowing stuff like that really belies a great deal of knowledge about the art and science of firing black powder artillery.  We will certainly try that the next time we go out.  I have been shooting that particular mortar since 1972 and it just never occurred to me to lever it that way.  Perhaps if I had been trying to move an 1861" 8 or 10 Inch Siege Mortar, I would have been forced to find a better way!!  Thanks again.

Regards,

Tracy and Mike