Author Topic: A new cannoner (Read 8488 times)

GGaskill · « **Reply #90 on:** November 07, 2007, 01:22:50 PM »

My guess is that the Fe is added to the molten Cu as finely divided particles or as part of some other chemical that reacts with the Cu to form some kind of slag while releasing the Fe into the solution. As the Al melts at a much lower temperature than Cu or Fe, it must be added late in the process so that it doesn't burn out of the alloy while the Fe is being dissolved. I have only second hand experience with Al bronze and the source said that it is hard to work with and requires degassing before pouring.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #91 on:** November 07, 2007, 10:37:14 PM »

Quote from: GGaskill on November 07, 2007, 01:22:50 PM

requires degassing before pouring.

Can hexachloroethane (C2Cl6) be used to degass it?

GGaskill · « **Reply #92 on:** November 08, 2007, 07:56:53 AM »

Can hexachloroethane (C₂Cl₆) be used to degass it?

Sorry, that's beyond my knowledge. Try calling a foundry supply company and asking them.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #93 on:** November 13, 2007, 12:32:28 PM »

Quote from: Cannon caster on November 03, 2007, 04:23:12 PM

We have started making brass for our 20 kg cannon.

We are making good progress. Now we have around 11 kg of brass ready. 9 more to go. I hope this weekend we make another 6 kg.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #94 on:** November 17, 2007, 11:20:54 AM »

I have some cannon grade smokeless powder from WW2. It was in rods and plates and I have put it in a bag and hit it with a hammer many times to grind it. I did succeed to reduce it to small pieces (1 or 2 cm long). Does anyone know how can I safely grind it to 2-3 mm granules? It is very hard, like plastic.

jeeper1 · « **Reply #95 on:** November 17, 2007, 12:15:58 PM »

In a non-metallic tumbler with lead balls. Something like this.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #96 on:** November 17, 2007, 12:23:03 PM »

Unfortunately I don't have a ball mill (but I plan to make one). Is there some other way?

Terry C. · « **Reply #97 on:** November 17, 2007, 01:29:20 PM »

Quote from: Cannon caster on November 17, 2007, 11:20:54 AM

I have some cannon grade smokeless powder from WW2.

Cannon grade smokeless powder?

What you're talking about is nitro-based artillery propellant. Bad stuff.

I'm almost afraid to ask, but what is it you are planning to do?

Cannon caster · « **Reply #98 on:** November 17, 2007, 02:15:27 PM »

Quote from: Terry C. on November 17, 2007, 01:29:20 PM

Cannon grade smokeless powder?

What you're talking about is nitro-based artillery propellant. Bad stuff.

I'm almost afraid to ask, but what is it you are planning to do?

Why is it bad?

I want to use it in my small brass cannon. I know about not using smokeless in cannons but the cannon is very small (6 cm long barrel and 13 mm in diameter). And the walls are very thick (around 15 mm). I would put in a very small amount of powder.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #99 on:** November 17, 2007, 03:07:29 PM »

Smokeless powder is DESIGNED to produce higher pressures (often FASTER) that blackpowder.

You are playing with a fire that could well get everyone burned.

Remember that a little MIGHT be ok, but that the pressure rise with a LITTLE more powder may quickly excede the safe limits of strength of the material used (which first of all is BRASS/BRONZE not steel) and is CAST.

DON'T mix the two - smokeless and cast bronze/brass.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #100 on:** November 18, 2007, 12:35:24 AM »

Thank you for the warning. I will use a small amount.

So is there any other way to grind it whit out a ball mill?

Terry C. · « **Reply #101 on:** November 18, 2007, 02:28:31 AM »

I think you are misreading CW's warning.

Don't use a small amount.

Don't use any amount.

DO NOT put this in a cast brass tube (or any other homemade barrel).

I know you have it and want to use it, but don't.

I don't foresee you getting any other advice from anyone on this board.

Artilleryman · « **Reply #102 on:** November 18, 2007, 03:32:42 AM »

Ditto!

Cannon caster · « **Reply #103 on:** November 18, 2007, 07:35:33 AM »

I understand. Well I will find some other thing to do with the smokeless powder.

And today we made 2.5 kg of brass. Now we have around 14 kg of brass for our cannon. 6 more to go.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #104 on:** November 18, 2007, 04:32:51 PM »

Quote from: Cannon caster on November 18, 2007, 07:35:33 AM

I understand. Well I will find some other thing to do with the smokeless powder.

And today we made 2.5 kg of brass. Now we have around 14 kg of brass for our cannon. 6 more to go.

GOOD!

We're trying to keep y'all alive!

The repetitive hammerings of even a small charge over time can be quite damaging, causing cracks to form. Then when you least expect it (because it WORKED a hundred times before) you take your last shot.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #105 on:** November 19, 2007, 03:10:47 AM »

Yesterday my uncle made a steel crucible for us (it is large). Now as we have already 14 kg of brass (6 more to go), a crucible,the mold and access to a lathe I think we will cast the cannon in a few weeks (could sooner but school is taking a lot of time from us). We only need some Ytong blocks for the furnace, handles to lift the crucible and make 6 kg of brass.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #106 on:** November 19, 2007, 12:12:49 PM »

This is going to be one MEMORABLE event!

Have you made the pattern yet?

Cannon caster · « **Reply #107 on:** November 19, 2007, 10:13:32 PM »

There is no pattern. The mold is a steel pipe that will stand on a steel plate and all that will be covered in fine silica sand. As the metal will shrink a few cm from the top and the bottom will be cut away. Then the cannon will be bored on a lathe.

Yes it will be a memorable event!

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #108 on:** November 20, 2007, 01:17:56 AM »

You might consider making the tube a bit longer than the finished cannon (say 30cm give or take) to allow the impurities (crud and air) of the pour which rise to the top. George can speak to this from EXPERIENCE. Several ways it can be done.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #109 on:** November 20, 2007, 08:10:57 AM »

Yes the tube will be longer than the finished cannon.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #110 on:** November 20, 2007, 11:02:31 AM »

Could a cannon be made by welding a steel plate to a steel pipe and enclosing the part of the cannon that has powder in it in brass? I don't know English very good so it is hard to explain it for me. Here is a picture:

I heard once someone made a similar cannon to this. He used aluminium pipe enclosed in lead.

GGaskill · « **Reply #111 on:** November 20, 2007, 12:58:22 PM »

Could you make one? Of course, you could. Would it be a good idea? Not really. The brass reinforce probably adds little overall strength to the piece. And we have said more than once, pipe is not something that should be used for cannon barrels.

It would be better to reverse the metals and add a steel band around a brass barrel.

Regarding an aluminum barrel with a lead reinforce, that's even worse than the pipe barrel/brass reinforce. Lead has almost no strength and aluminum has no fatigue resistance.

Cannon caster · « **Reply #112 on:** November 29, 2007, 12:43:19 PM »

I have a problem. I cast a small brass cannon and bored it. Then I wanted do drill the vent. And then the drill bit broke. It broke inside the metal so I can't grab it with something. Does anyone how can I remove it? The drill bit is 1.5 mm in diameter.

And we made another 2 kg of brass for the large cannon.

GGaskill · « **Reply #113 on:** November 29, 2007, 01:16:31 PM »

This is not an unheard of problem; see Evil dog's post for some commiseration. We attacked his barrel with a half inch carbide endmill which ultimately left a half inch hole in the barrel We plugged the hole with a vent liner made of stainless steel. In your case, I would make a small chisel and cut a shallow vent field around the hole until a little bit of the drill sticks out. Grasp the drill with needle nose pliers and twist backwards while pulling out.

When you start drilling again, use some oil and back out the chips frequently.

dan610324 · « **Reply #114 on:** March 26, 2008, 06:59:26 PM »

whats happened ??

HAVE YOU KILLED YOURSELF WITH YOUR FOOLISH YOUNG IDEAS ??

Why doesn't you listen when people tell you what to do ??

THERE HAVE NEVER BEEN AN CANNON MADE FROM BRASS , ALL REAL CANNONS WAS MADE FROM BRONZE .
brass is way to fragile , cannon bronze should be 90/10 copper/tin , zinc and lead will only make the alloy more fragile .
and what I seen from your videos you are overloading heavily .
an normal and recommended charge for small salute cannons is 0,15 gram per caliber millimeter , 10 mm caliber would use 1,5 gram BLACK POWDER , ABSOLUTELY NOT SMOKELESS POWDER .

I don't want to stop your interest for cannon manufacturing , but please do it safe .
one proportion rule from the 17 th century is that breach end should have minimum material thickness of 1,1 caliber and muzzle end minimum 0,55 caliber , BUT THAT WAS OVER 400 YEARS AGO AND THEIR BLACK POWDER WASN'T CLOSE TO MODERN BLACK POWDER IN POWER

today I would recommend you to have minimum 1,5 and 0,75 caliber thick material now when I know how hard you load your cannon , and you also use an bullet , that will increase the gas pressure very much . ok I aint sure even if this will be strong enough for you .
but this proportions is for high quality cannon bronze , NOT FOR BRASS .

BETTER SAFE THEN SORRY .

that any of your pipe bombs haven't killed either you or any of your friends yet , I cant understand that .
what do you believe is an safe distance from an exploding cannon ??

I CAN TELL YOU THAT THE 10 METERS YOU RUN AWAY IS ABSOLUTELY NOT AN SAFE DISTANCE , I WOULD SAY THAT YOU STILL EASILY COULD GET KILLED AT 30 METERS DISTANCE .

please think of this words and you could still be among us others to your next birthday .

Titus · « **Reply #115 on:** March 27, 2008, 01:34:11 AM »

Quote from: Cannon caster on September 20, 2007, 10:24:34 AM

Steel melts at more than 1300 C.

Cannon Caster, steel pipe is made from mild steel meaning it has a low to medium carbon content and it actually begins having viscous properties at just above 800C. Blade steels like 12C27 and N690 which even has other metals like chromium, vanadium, molebdenum, manganese and silicon as well as a high carbon content has high heat tolerances. We harden our blades at 1080C. I will include a pic so that you can see what they look like at that temp. Its very cool. Cast your barrels, but get them reamed to ensure uniform bores. Cannons are lots of fun, but they are not toys. They can kill. Remember safety first.

GGaskill · « **Reply #116 on:** March 27, 2008, 07:18:17 PM »

A good place to research the numbers on modern bronze alloys is Anchor Bronze. 90700 is about old time artillery bronze; take a look at some of the others. Absolute maximum tensile strength is not the only characteristic that is important.

Titus · « **Reply #117 on:** March 27, 2008, 10:15:51 PM »

another very important factor is ductility of the metal.

Victor3 · « **Reply #118 on:** March 28, 2008, 03:06:04 AM »

Quote from: Titus on March 27, 2008, 01:34:11 AM

Quote from: Cannon caster on September 20, 2007, 10:24:34 AM
Steel melts at more than 1300 C.

Cannon Caster, steel pipe is made from mild steel meaning it has a low to medium carbon content and it actually begins having viscous properties at just above 800C. Blade steels like 12C27 and N690 which even has other metals like chromium, vanadium, molebdenum, manganese and silicon as well as a high carbon content has high heat tolerances. We harden our blades at 1080C. I will include a pic so that you can see what they look like at that temp. Its very cool. Cast your barrels, but get them reamed to ensure uniform bores. Cannons are lots of fun, but they are not toys. They can kill. Remember safety first.

Hmmm... Somehow "Safety first" isn't what comes to mind when I see a half naked man dangling a white-hot piece of steel over a small quenching tank with a pair of very short pliers.

I know, I know - he's an expert and has been doing it that way for over 40 years...

dan610324 · « **Reply #119 on:** March 28, 2008, 05:55:20 AM »

also an expert can make an mistake or be out of focus for an sec