this must have been asked-solid pilot or floating pilot

[bluebayou]

I know that Elkridge has a good reputation here, but their website isn't very informative.  Does a solid pilot make a poorer chamber in a rifle like this?  It appears that they only have this in a floating pilot.  Very little metal is coming out.......... Do I need a handle or wrench or something to turn the reamer?  Assume that I want to make a 357 Max chamber.  What do I need to know going into the transaction?

[quickdtoo]

I'd go with GBO sponsor 4D, give Fred a call or email and ask him, everyone that's rented from him has been happy.

Tim

http://www.4-dproducts.com/display.php?group=Pistol+Calibers

[d_hiker]

I just got finished reaming a NEF .357 Mag to MAX.  I rented the reamer from 4D.  Fred sent the reamer quick, your rental time doesn't start until you receive the reamer and ends when you send it back.  The reamer is similar to a tap, as in tap & die.  You need a tap handle that will handle a 3/8" square reamer/tap.  That was the hardest part of doing the job, finding the handle (some how mine seems to have disappeared and the kids don't have a clue where). 

Check to make sure your rifle is unloaded and remove the barrel.  You need to remove the extractor if so equipped.  If the barrel you have is the second generation extractor (see FAQ) which is what I got on my new .357 Mag barrel, you only have to remove one pin.  Punch out the pin which is closest to the chamber end of the barrel and then pull the extractor out.  There is a flat spring sitting on top of the extractor, notice which direction it is sitting, with curved side up.  Now you can ream the chamber.  I put a couple of patches in the barrel just forward of the chamber to prevent metal shavings and cutting oil from running down the barrel.  I applied cutting oil to the chamber and then inserted the reamer (the reamer Fred sent had a solid pilot) into the chamber.  I didn't feel any slop, it was a solid fit.  I turned the reamer until the shoulder on the reamer met the shoulder for the cartridge rim in the chamber, stopping a couple of times to clean the cuttings off of the reamer.  Then I cleaned the chamber and barrel and placed a dummy cartridge .357 MAX (no powder or primer, just brass and bullet) into the chamber to check that it fit.  Removed the dummy load and put the extractor back together.  Before replacing the extractor, I did polish the rough surface and edges on it and applied a little moly lube.

Overall a pretty easy experience.  The first time I removed the extractor I punched all 3 pins out.  Then I discovered that only the one pin closest to the chamber end of the barrel held the extractor in place.

If you were to order a floating pilot reamer you need to know what diameter to order.  Slugging the barrel would be the best way to determine this.

FYI: The seater plug for RCBS .38 spc, 357 mag, 357 max dies with rifle type bullets is part number 90018.


HINT: Connect a 3/8" drive socket extension to a 1/4" drive reducer.  The reamer fits in the 3/8" end and the 1/4" end goes into the tap handle!

[bluebayou]

Thanks for the informative answer.
Would you be willing to mail a single Max case to me to measure with?  I could send you some 360 DW brass to experiment with if you like. 

Tim, coincidentally, I emailed 4D and he replied:

"A 357 Maximum reamer, if you do not have a tap wrench that will handle a .4375"  then we can rent you one for $8.  Since your probably working from a 357 magnum you can use brass for headspace.  I would make up a dummy for that purpose, that way you will be sure that the loaded round will go  in the chamber.  Since its a rimmed case I normally put layout dye on the existing rim cut, when the reamer scratches the layout dye your done."

Seems like, 4D will get the hard earned $28 from me on this.  I found my tap handle.  It didn't occur to me that a tap handle would work.

[quickdtoo]

Most of the fellas that have hand reamed their 357s and 44s used a T-handle, but I've used a regular tap handle for throating and it worked too.

Tim

[d_hiker]

bluebayou, PM sent.

When you insert the dummy round to check headspace, be sure you have cleaned out the chamber so that no filings stop the round from being fully inserted.

Tim, that looks like the same handle I used for the job.

[snapcrackpop]

Since its a rimmed case I normally put layout dye on the existing rim cut, when the reamer scratches the layout dye your done."

So...is it possible to cut too deep with this reamer?

[aromakr]

Yes it is possible to go too deep, this is a standard finish reamer for the 357 Max. It can be used to chamber an un-chambered barrel, so you can certainly go too deep. The layout dye or Dykem is an excellent idea.
Bob

[Chas.]

I don't want to hijack, but is Dykem like a magic marker?

[cwlongshot]

I don't want to hijack, but is Dykem like a magic marker?

Kinda sorta.
Its "layout dye''. You paint it on a piece of metal and scribe in your marks for machining. In cambering you can use it to "see" when the rim touches the 357MAGNUMS previously cut rim.  I use mine all the time, useful for fitting barrels and anywhere this kind of fitment is needed.

CW

[45-70.gov]

how  important is it to remove the ejector


i mean extracor

[gendoc]

I don't want to hijack, but is Dykem like a magic marker?

Kinda sorta.
Its "layout dye''. You paint it on a piece of metal and scribe in your marks for machining. In cambering you can use it to "see" when the rim touches the 357MAGNUMS previously cut rim.  I use mine all the time, useful for fitting barrels and anywhere this kind of fitment is needed.

CW

"white-out" works jus as good..........in my opinion
 
 
 

how  important is it to remove the ejector


i mean extracor

very important... a must do in my opinion
 

[quickdtoo]

+1 on what Doc said! 

Tim

[moorepower]

The question you asked about a floating reamer, I do not know a gunsmith who prefers a solid pilot. A solid pilot will work, but a floating pilot allows a more precice fit to the bore of your barrel, and won't mar it when chambering, as it is not turning steel on steel. You may not see it with the naked eye, but a borescope will show you. On a handi, it is not like your chambering a $400 barrel either.

[trotterlg]

To do you any good at all the floating pilot reamer has to have a pilot that exactly matches your bore.  We are talking about .00025 inches or less, so if it does not come with a bunch of different sized pilots then you are just as well off going with a solid one.  In a Handi rifle you will never notice any difference in either one.  Larry

[gcrank1]

If possible I want a floating to fit 'zakly' (as Larry says; a smidge of room for lube and no wobble), and therein lies the problem.......if it is a tad too tight it wont fit and/or forcing will do your bore no good. I think you can send Fred a bore cast or lead slug to help him determine what you need, if you tend to be OC, otherwise do like most everyone does and get the solid and do a good job.
I warn you that when you get close to the rimseat, go much slower and do not have the rim cutter do any more than just touch the marking compound !!! Doc's recommendation of using WhiteOut is good, it is a bit thick and when you touch it you are still away from metal.

[quickdtoo]

Yupper, whiteout works, it's easier to see than marker when it gets covered with cutting oil! 

Tim

That means to stop when the rim cutter touches the existing rim cut, if you don't, it will increase headspace. On the last one I did, I used whiteout typing correction fluid, it's real easy to when the cutter hits it.

The reamer went in the mail to cutshurt today, OSOK is next unless aflineman gets a mailing address to me,  then you're up Don. 

Tim