Bullet advise for .444 Marlin in a 14" T/C contender

[HHI 812]

Veral,
What would you advise for my 14" T/C Contender in 444 Marlin. As you know, I'm in Alaska, and looking for a bullet to cover a broad game option, and a good thumper, in case of an encounter of the bear kind.
Thanks,
Dennis

[Veral]

  A 300 gr LFN and load it to 1600 fps max.  The gun will propel it a lot faster, but you'd hate shooting it, and kill speed or power will degrade with faster speed.

[HHI 812]

Veral,
Since velocity isn't a factor, would I be better off going with say a 6 shot Ruger Super Redhawk or Redhawk 7 1/2", and get about 1600fps with a 300 LFN? So velocity isn't needed for better killing power? How would you compare a 500 Linebaugh shooting say a 430 LFN @ 1300fps, compared to say a 300 Win Mag in a 15" Encore? Wouldn't the higher velocity be a better killer for say a big bear, if hit say in the shoulder?
Thanks,
Dennis

[Veral]

  Understand that the velocity I quoted you is from a Contender, not from a Revolver, or more specifically, any revolver!
  The Redhawk WILL propel my 300 LFN at 1600 fps with somewhat under standard pressure if it is set up with a .5 nose though.
   However, I developed a displacement velocity formula in 1989 which has never been disproven, or even argued, to my knowledge, but thousands have found it to be accurate.
  For a 44 caliber LFN it dictates a velocity not over 1550 fps, or for the WFN in 44 caliber a top end velocity of 1450 fps.  If heavy game is on the agenda, up the weight but not the speed, so if you EXPECT a big bear problem go with 300 or 320 gr bullets.  If you MAY encounter one but don't live in heavy big bear concentrations, go with a weight that works well for the game you are after.  Like 280 gr, which gives the above velocities with agreeable recoil.

   I have a slight problem in that I developed the most power full handgun bullets in the world, back when I believed more power is better, then I learned through extensive experience that proper wound size accompanied with adequate penetration is the critical factor for getting quick kills.
 

[HHI 812]

So from what I got from you, is that the bigger bores like the 475's and 500's isn't necessarily needed, since a .44 or .45 will do it with the right velocity and meplat. What is your opinion on long range handgun hunting as far as say bottleneck cartridges? They give you flatter trajectory and longer reach, but what is needed to say hunt Kodiak where there are a lot of big bears(in our newspaper today adn.com, there is an article on a 10 foot plus bear taken on Kodiak). Would you suggest a smaller faster caliber or a big bore slower chambering? In other words, if you were going handgun hunting in Kodiak, what would be your choices in a revolver for belt carry, and a single shot for longer range.
Thanks,
Dennis

[Veral]

Understand up front.  I wouldn't be going handgun hunting for Kodiak bear on Kodiak, nor for big browns anywhere.  I would carry a handgun as protection with complete confidence though, but wouldn't use it unless it were mandatory.    My reason is that I can put a rifle bullet precisely where I want it a lot quicker, and on a fast moving target.  With a handgun I want the target moving slow or stationary, or if for defense use, close enough that the powder blast burns hair.
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I was a bit salty with that reply, which was not a  proper answer, but a personal opinion about what I would or wouldn't like.

   I have many mold customers who have killed brown bears with handgun bullets from my molds, mostly using revolvers of 44 and 45 caliber, and all have reported quick kills.  Key to success, or quick killing power is to use a load that produces the ideal DV, or Displacement Velocity, per my kill formula, which is around 125, with 130 absolute max.  !00 is excellent but requires a bit more precision shot placement through the vitals to kill rapidly enough to prevent damage from close in shots, damage to the shooter that is.  This power level or better stated, wounding potential can be attained with a host of cartridges and firearm types.

  Here is the displacement velocity formula:   Multiply meplate diameter in thousandths by velocity and divide by 4.  Use this formula only for non expanding flat nosed bullets.  I find the easiest way to use the formula is to divide the meplat diameter by 4 and punch the result into the memory on a small calculator.  Now multiply that answer by several velocities till a velocity is found that produces the desired DV. 

  Animals up to moose, huge brown bear and bison are incapacitated instantly when hit through the chest with a DV of 125 to 130, and either fold in their tracks or are able to move slowly for only a few feet.   If any of my readers have questions about this. Throw them at me.  The formula has stood without being argued since I introduced it in 1989.  I have received thousands of testimonials to it's accuracy and not one report of it being wrong.

  Be forwarned.  DON't go over thinking more is better.  The numbers above are optimum, and going higher will slow kill speed.

[Sweetwater]

Hi Veral-
Totally enjoy your responses to this forum - in regards to your DV equation (DV=meplat dia/4 x V) - is that based on terminal velocity or muzzle velocity? That may be academic, but it appears that a question mark is appropriate here. A Cast Performance Bullet Company .41/250grWFNGC, advertised as an LBT Series bullet,  has a meplat of about .335 and to hit a DV of 125, I need a velocity of 1492fps, correct? That's a bit stiff in my Ruger Bisley Blackhawk 41mag. It will do it, but more than I like in recoil. However, if that's terminal velocity requirement of 1492fps, we aren't going there. Am I missing something here?

Regards,
Sweetwater

[Veral]

  Nope.  You haven't missed a thing.  Just figure DV at the muzzle and pretend the bullet doesn't lose speed, or if you want, think it gains speed with distence as many did before chronographs became household items.       I don't know why it works as well as it does, but it does.  Also, if you don't like the recoil and can shoot more accurately, load down to about 100 DV and use care about where you put the bullet.  You'll find bullet placement much easier if the thing isn't hurting your hands and ears when you touch it off.

  Best option is a WFN of coarse, which doesn't need as much speed to get the ideal DV of 125 and 220 gr is adaquate for super accuracy, which both spell minimized recoil.  Game up to big bears and moose will take notice if one of these is laid on them at 1300 fps or so muzzle vel.

  Please poo-poo any Cast Performance advertising about using LBT designs or being LBT.  They probably still have some of my designs from 10 years ago when we did the last business, but most aren't.   On the other hand.  Measuring the meplat diameter dictates DV at any given velocity, so if what they sell delivers the DV you want and you can hit with them, they will work as well as if the mold they fell from had the LBT stamp laid on by my own hand.  That goes for any mold maker of coarse.  We are dealing with scientific fact.          Accuracy and all other internal ballistics are determined by precison machining of the mold and proper and precision design, and that's what LBT is about.   LBT stands for Lead Bullet Technology, and I have enough technology that the government put me in prison for 4.5 years to stop me spreading it.  Is that enough for you?     (The charges were false of coarse but the purpose gun control.)