cross post- how do I clean a Mosin's shellac finish?

[bluebayou]

I got a great deal on a Mosin 91/30......$40.  LOL, couldn't pass that up.

So the rifle is in rearsenalled condition, covered in a thin, runny cosmoline.

How do I clean the finish without stripping the existing shellac?  Is this even possible?  The color is great, it is just covered in a film of tacky cosmo and oil. 

Was thinking to clean with dishsoap.  Could always just strip it.........but I don't want to.

[Wynn]

Simple Green or, if heavy, mineral spirits should remove it. Stay away from alcohol based cleaners. Alcohol will take the shellac right off.

[TribReady]

Even better to do:
Get some amber shellac, cut it pretty thin with alcohol as directed on the can, and get some 0000 steel wool.
Dip the steel wool into the shellac and wipe entire stock.  The alcohol will soften the existing shellac and the new shellac will also cover.  It may take a bit and some elbow grease but once it starts to soften, it'll go pretty easy.  This will give a very even coat that also evens out any shellac color variances.

I've done alot of Mosins this way.  After the shellac is evened out, I like to wipe down one last time with a rag lightly coated in the shellac.  You're adding very little new shellac and restoring the existing stock.  It's quick and very effective.  It may sound dumb, but be sure to remove the barrelled receiver before working on the stock 

Shoot me a private message if you want me to give you a great site for stock cleaning and restoring---not refinishing.   I don't want to "advertise" another forum here         

[The Gamemaster]

Kerosene and a rag.

If the Shellac comes off - then it wasn't on there very well - was it?

You can buy a Formby's kit to refinish any gun for less than $40 in materials - and then you would have something!

http://www.formbys.com/products/refinisher.cfm

http://www.formbys.com/products/tung_oil.cfm

http://www.formbys.com/products/Accessories.cfm

[1911crazy]

Here we go;

ditto on the formby's

I have taken mosin stocks and sks stocks that had nicks and runny finishes too and washed them first with Murply's Wood Soap straight out of the bottle.  On the greasy oily stocks i let it sit a while so the oil will come out of the stock.  It may take a few washings to get it clean.  If the stock is that bad with soaked oil a black bag in the hot sun maybe the way to go too.  Put an oily stock in a black plastic bag in the hot sun or even in the hot car in the hot sun so it will heat up and the oil will expire out of it.  Then wipe it down and wash it with Murphy's Wood Soap. I may even go over it with a 0000 steelwool with the murphy's soap too.  Don't rinse with water it will lighten some areas of the stock.  Just wipe it dry.  Then i let it sit for a few days to completely dry.  Now if it has runny shellac or nicks were the finish is gone I will use a coarse steelwool or a fine sand paper to level the area out.  I leave some of the orginal finish on the stock now its just smoother.  With the stock looking good its ready to match the stained color in the bare spots.(nicks)  I use Behlen Master Solar Lux stain.  You have to wear gloves with this stuff too.  I apply it with a soft rag and when its dry i go over it with a fine 0000 steelwool again to get it even smoother.   Once i have the color depth i want i let the stock sit for a day or so to dry again.  Now comes the Formby's Tung Oil finish.  I apply a thin coat of tung oil letting it soak in and steelwool it again with 0000 steelwool between coats.  You have to apply it till the tung oil is completely soaked in and its now on the surface when its dry.  Just thin coats only.  On the last coat i let it dry and go over it again with 0000 steelwool.  Right now its a dull finish and if thats what you want leave it.  If you want it shiney then use johnsons wood paste wax and it will bring back the luster.  This is the only way i do stocks now. Just take your time and do it right and you'll be happy with the results.

BTW;  The Formby's tung oil will go right over the orginal finish if its clean.....

On a rifle like an FN49 I had an egyptian that had 3 coats of finish on it.  I went to work with a course steelwool and took off ever bit of the finish.  The stock looks awesome now.   You just have to read the wood/finish and learn what to do.  I try not to sand any stock if it can be avoided but its better to sand than to try using stripper just use fine paper and sand it even.  Its better to practice on a junk stock first with sanding.

There is a Behlen Master solar Lux stain that matches the color of some of the chinese sks's, the swiss k31's and some of the mosins too its the yellow orange.  Wear gloves because your hands will be yellow orange for a longtime i know all about it.   On the finnish m39 mosins I had one spot that was hit with a bayonet it was splintered and i wanted to smooth it out a little.  For some reason the sealer they used on the wood wouldn't accept the stain.  I put the stain on by padding it so the color was even and just let it dry rather than wiping it off.  I let the excess dry for a few light coats.  Then i applied the tung oil right over it and its ok now. You have to learn the tricks too.


I don't want a new looking surplus gun, i do leave the deep history marks on the stocks, some stocks i repair and some are left in orginal condition if the finish looks ok.  I like repairing someone else's screw ups too.  I have made a silk purse out of a sows ear on some of these bad looking stocks they can be a diamond in the rough you just have to see past the bad finish to see it.   Just go slow....

Thats it my stock finishing 101 if you have any questions or thoughts just ask.  Like i said i don't refinish everything but i do repair bubba jobs and save the orginality.....keep it simple and enjoy!!!