Author Topic: contributing factors (Read 799 times)

Awf Hand · « **on:** June 25, 2003, 07:14:31 AM »

I hope this turns into a really long and interesting thread...

I'm curious about what all you posters have found to be contributing factors to accuracy when shooting cast lead bullets in cartridges that were typically reserved for condom bullets, -i.e. 30 cal, 7mm family 6.5mm etc.

I'll lead off with:

I've found that paying special attention to the chamfer/deburring of the mouths of my cases helped me load bullets that weren't being severely deformed while seating. This reduced my group sizes by quite a bit. Idscovered this when I had to unseat a bullet when my press ran out of primers. The bore-riding portion looked pretty bad. The must look better now, as the accuracy has improved.

Paul H · « **Reply #1 on:** June 25, 2003, 10:01:23 AM »

Unfortunately I haven' done enough cast rifle shooting to have formed an opinion as to the things that really help. Well, here are a few things to consider.

First, get the bore really, really clean, ie Barnes CR-7 and JB bore paste clean.

Next thing is, if you keep your velocities in the mild range, between 1200-1700 fps, it is much easier to attain nice shooting groups, and really, really fun to shoot mild loads. Unique is a great powder for this, and is not position sensitive. Don't be afraid to shoot bullets large for the bore, ie a few thousands oversize, often they shoot better this way. Don't think bullets have to be harder-n-ell, soft bullets are a bit more forgiving, and if you keep the speeds down, won't lead up the bore.

Maybe this thread will finally motivate me to break in those spankin new 6.5 molds in the wifes swede

howdy doody · « **Reply #2 on:** June 25, 2003, 05:50:39 PM »

I'm no help either. I come here to pick your brains. I have only been casting 2 months and not even bullets. I started with .454 and .457 balls for my remingtons and ROAs that I use for cowboy action shooting. I have picked up some good advice here and I appreciate it. I plan to venture into bullet casting in the near future, so comment away, I am lurking and picking up tips. So, thanks very much, I appreciate the board. :-)

Nobade · « **Reply #3 on:** June 26, 2003, 05:36:45 AM »

First and foremost is fit of the bullet to the firearm. It's got to fit the throat or everything else is a waste of time. It's got to be the proper hardness for the velocities it's operating at. The slowest burning powder that is appropriate helps. Good lube helps. Light neck tension and no crimp helps. (hard to do with revolvers) Absolutely no copper in the bore is a must. And the list goes on and on...

HWooldridge · « **Reply #4 on:** June 26, 2003, 06:05:18 AM »

I have shot cast bullets for over 25 years. I used to own a .338 Win Mag in a Ruger 77 and tried some lead pills in it. I don't remember the twist but it was a factory barrel and accuracy with jacketed bullets was exemplary. The cast bullet was a Lee design with a long bore riding surface, gas check and weighed about 220 grs in linotype over a reduced load of Unique. It did not shoot well and bullets sometimes tumbled at 100 yds. I tried lots of combinations of alloys and powders with no success. Groups were never smaller than 6 inches and often much larger. However, I've had a lot of good fortune with the 45-70 and other calibers so my final analysis of the .338 was that the lube grooves were too small and were not carrying to the end of the barrel. I guess my advice as a general rule of thumb is to have substantial grease grooves on any design. The long bore riding designs also need a fast enough twist to stabilize at lower velocities. My two cents...

Tom W. · « **Reply #5 on:** June 28, 2003, 05:50:18 PM »

I've loaded many for my 30/30. I use a LEE 160 gr.gas check bullet tumble lubed, with 19 gr. of H-4227. It's a mild, accurate load . I also bought an RCBS neck expanding die in .309 and it makes a world of difference in seating the bullets.

Johm D M · « **Reply #6 on:** June 29, 2003, 05:22:12 AM »

Awfhand, I am assuming that you were not flaring the case mouth with a Lyman M die, Needle-nose pliers or next size larger Jacketed bullet? The Ly die has replacable inserts to bell case mouths and I think RCBS has also. Any lead removal around the bullet willl result in an unbalanced bullet which might hit the paper but will not group. John

Lloyd Smale · « **Reply #7 on:** July 01, 2003, 10:36:22 AM »

Im not real experineced rifle cast shooter though ive done some. Ive shot alot in handguns ALOT. One thing that I find is that people have a tendency to clean there guns to much. I was told this by John Linebaugh it takes time for a bullet to get use to a barrel the barrel needs to be conditioned to the lube and alloy being used. Some loads that shoot into 3 inches at 25 after shooting 50 or 60 bullets of the same load will settle down and go into half of that. Dont look into your barrel and notice the filth most of it is lube. Its a different story if its leaded and usually a couple of gas checked bullet will blow most of the lead build up out. Try it. It has been proven to me more then once.

Billy Marr · « **Reply #8 on:** July 02, 2003, 03:00:12 AM »

Lloyd is right on that when I was shooting silly wetts I would clean the barrel a month before the match season. the I would coat the bore with my bullet lube to preseason. I would the shoot about 50 plinking rounds. run a patch of tetra lube then a few dry ones. start shooting my standard loads and I was done for the next 4to 6 months with cleaning. I normaly wipe any powder residue out but I would not use a brush and solvent.