Author Topic: Stripped allen screws (Read 1993 times)

charles p · « **on:** December 20, 2007, 10:48:16 AM »

Can't get the allen head screws out of a scope base. Already buggered the screw heads. How will I ever get them out? I don't have to remove them since I can live with the base the way it is.

PartsMan · « **Reply #1 on:** December 20, 2007, 10:51:43 AM »

Drill the head off.
Remove the other screws and scope base.
Spray good penetrating oil on screw remains.
Use vise grips to grab what threads are sticking up and turn it out.

Not that I have ever had to do this.

John Traveler · « **Reply #2 on:** December 20, 2007, 11:03:32 AM »

Go to your local auto parts or Home Depot hardware store and buy a Bristol Spline wrench similar in size to the buggered up Allen head. It is a trademarked key wrench like the Allen, but instead of a hexagon, it's cross section resembles a fat six-pointed star with fat tips. Drive this into the buggered up Allen head with a small hammer and turn out the old screw.

The thread sealant my need some heat from a hair dryer gun or penetrating oil help.

montveil · « **Reply #3 on:** December 21, 2007, 07:55:01 AM »

Is the Bristol spine wrench the same as a Torx wrench??

John Traveler · « **Reply #4 on:** December 21, 2007, 08:03:59 AM »

No. Bristol Spline is not the same as Torx. Bristol Spline came first, and GM introduced the Torx much later.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #5 on:** December 21, 2007, 08:06:07 AM »

Bristol spline is similar to Torx, but not the same.

Here's a thread on the same topic from the NEF Centerfire FAQs and Help sticky, lots of suggestions, there's even a reply by montveil!! A Torx and some heat from a mini torch or soldering iron has worked for me.

Tim

http://www.gboreloaded.com/forums/index.php/topic,112979.msg1098352173.html#msg1098352173

Randy_che · « **Reply #6 on:** December 21, 2007, 08:25:32 AM »

Agree with Tim. Heat will break down the Lock-tite that is probably the source of the problem. Even without Lock-tite, heat will help loosen the screws.

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #7 on:** December 21, 2007, 08:42:51 AM »

the last one i had like that , i used an easy out !
with an allen head screw it easy to center the drill bit .

The Gamemaster · « **Reply #8 on:** December 21, 2007, 10:17:08 AM »

I might sound like a broken record, but take it to a gunsmith.

I agree with everyone that said that the loctite has bonded to the metal and will not come out with anything but heat.

When you drill out the screw head, you create heat, that is what makes the other options work.

But if you drill off center or wander when you drill, you will make a hole that is bigger than the original hole or it will become offset - which will not hold a screw as well as the original hole.

Even if the man charged you $10 to fix the problem it will be money well spent.

PartsMan · « **Reply #9 on:** December 21, 2007, 11:38:17 AM »

Drilling the head of of the top of the screw you will not even get close to the threaded hole in your receiver.
I use a drill bit bigger than the treads so the head will come off clean.
Plus, the socket hole in the screw will not let you wander without really trying.

A gunsmith may be a good idea if you are not comfortable doing it yourself.

quickdtoo · « **Reply #10 on:** December 21, 2007, 12:01:12 PM »

Nothing against good gunsmiths, if there were any close to me, I'd be real happy to give them some business, but there aren't, so I get to do my own work, or send it to my gunsmith 250 miles from here when I need something beyond my capabilities. If I had a smith do every stripped socket head and screw that I've had to remove, I coulda bought another gun with the money spent over the years!!

Tim

Hairtrigger · « **Reply #11 on:** December 21, 2007, 12:15:01 PM »

I have had some luck getting an easy-out to grab in the stripped out head and back the screw out.
Not 100% of the time but it does work.
My 2nd choice is left handed drill bits

The Gamemaster · « **Reply #12 on:** December 21, 2007, 03:43:04 PM »

They don't make left handed drill bits in a size small enough to drill out a 4/48 or a 6/48 screw.

The point on a drill bit is not the same angle as the seat that is cut into your scope mount. So even with that method, if you drilled it and hit the seat, the mount would no longer be any good, unless you had a cutter that could re establish the taper in the seat.

You can sharpen a larger drill bit left handed, but anything smaller than 1/8 inch is next to impossible even with a drill doctor.

You can however use a small punch to peen the inside of the Allen head screw, which might give you something to grab a hold of with something else.

More than likely, the screw head was metric and you tried using a SAE Allen wrench to remove it, which would not work.

One more thing you would want to do is grind back your allen wrench to an area where it is not damaged. It will no longer be any good the way it is anyways.

A Allen headed screw / bolt has two surfaces, one that is used when you tighten it and another when you loosen it. When you damage one by over tightening, the other does not have the strength to remove the screw. A gunsmith might even have to silver solder a allen wrench to the screw head to remove it. Which means that it would not be a good idea to drill off the head.

If it is damaged beyond repair, they will have to move the holes ahead or behind the origional holes and re tap them.

montveil · « **Reply #13 on:** December 22, 2007, 04:49:09 AM »

Just an idea iwhat if you used an old/broken drill bit , or something like it, and superglued it into the socket. Maybe it would work??

John Traveler · « **Reply #14 on:** December 22, 2007, 07:47:57 AM »

I doubt if the superglue/epoxy idea would work. Super glue has maximum shear/sliding strength, and that is dependent on surface area.

I like Gamemasters's suggestions. They have worked for me in the past too.

The suggestion to use a Bristol spline or even a Torx bit is strictly a field expedient, and is likely to sacrifice the bit.

springer222 · « **Reply #15 on:** December 22, 2007, 02:48:30 PM »

Quote

They don't make left handed drill bits in a size small enough to drill out a 4/48 or a 6/48 screw.

Not exactly a left handed "drill bit", but can be handy - http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=6838&st=&s=16943

SHOOTALL · « **Reply #16 on:** December 23, 2007, 05:31:03 AM »

GET A LEFT HAND TWIST DRILL BIT !
quite often the screw will come out as you drill !

gunnut69 · « **Reply #17 on:** December 24, 2007, 09:26:46 AM »

The simplest and safest method is to carefully drill the head using a drill slightly larger than the screw involved. As soon as the base of the screw is reached the head will turn with the drill. GO SLOW!!! I would use a drill press for the depth control and ease of slow operation. With the heads drilled off the screws can be heated and removed with a vise grip or similar wrench. Heating LocTite to a couple of hundred degrees will loosen it's bond.

montveil · « **Reply #18 on:** December 29, 2007, 06:30:42 AM »

I have noticed tht there are many types of Loctite, Some are thread lockers ie blue, red etc while others are super glue types- black

I wonder how one gets the super glue types to release?

John Traveler · « **Reply #19 on:** December 29, 2007, 07:13:11 AM »

I believe the "secret" to getting a Locktited joint to release is applying external heat. Their website should show what their product applications are as well as the release temperatures needed.