1st Custom Rifle-What does it entail???

[Minnesota1]

I am looking to build a custom rifle like the one on the American Rifleman Magazine this month. That .22-6mm Ackley Improved sure looks like a coyote killer and it appears you can really have some distance with it as well! Maybe there's better cartridge combos out there and if anyone has an idea let me know.

Here is where I need help. There are always hidden costs that you do not know about when undertaking a job like this. I do realize I will need an action, a barrel, a stock. Probably a trigger assembly but I am not sure what else needs to be done. I would imagine you would need a gunsmith for head spacing, reaming and what else?

This will be my 1st gun I build so any info so I do not fall into too many pitfalls would be appreciated and if you know more or less costs for gunsmithing and parts I would really appreciate that for budgeting purposes. Also, I am on a tight budget so any cost saving tips would be appreciated.

As far as actions go I am willing to go any direction, Rem 700's cost an arm and a leg-if I go that route I might buy a used rifle and take the action off of it unless there is a downside to it. But a mauser type action or any other that you would recommend would be fine as well. Just let me know where to get them and approximate cost.

Thank you so much for your help and input.

Bob

[Doesniper]

Figure on buying another barrel in about 600 rounds. A custom 220 swift will give you a fast round, and a much longer barrel life. Have fun with your project, but understand that once you do it, you'll want to do it again.

[hillbill]

build whatever caliber yu like, yu can always change the barrel later to a similar length cartridge.i could be wrong but yu might try a swedish mauser action if yu can get one reasonable, or just buy a whole gun and use the action and sell the barrel and stock stuff. a custom rifle will always cost more than a comparable quality used rifle.one thing yu need to know, a custom rifle is like a harley or a 4 wheel drive yu build from the ground up,yu gonna have to work on it occasionally to keep it in top shape.

[Rangr44]

The first thing you need to do is list (itemize) every little thing you're gonna want in the new rifle - exact trigger, barrel (maker/length/contour/material/features like fluting, etc), stock, scope & mounts, and who's going to do the work. You're not gonna believe what you're gonna end up with, and what it'll cost, new !

If you're "on a budget", you can save huge amounts if you can do much for yourself.

If you decide to go with a used rifle as a basis, find one with as many features on your list as you can - for instance, Remington 700's are more expensive, but they come with one of the better factory triggers available, as does the Winchester M70 and the newer Savages with the Accu-Trigger. It's arguably easier to find & bed (read: cheaper) a custom stock for them, too.

An example would be to locate an early M700 Varmint (heavy Barrel) in one of the smaller .22 centerfire rounds, and simply have it rechambered for a .22 Super Duper Whatever.

If money is an issue, then you'll be several hundred dollars better off just purchasing a new factory super whatever, like a .204 Ruger.

[StrawHat]

The first thing to do is to decide you truly have enough money to throw away on this project.

Seriously.

Many custom rifles end up on sales racks at fractions of what they cost to build.

And few think they will ever sell their custom project. 

I have build about a  half dozen custom projects, more if you include the muzzleloaders.  I currently own two of them. 

Had a hard time selling some of them and others flew out the door. 

Custom work is done solely for your own satisfaction, few others will appreciate what you considered ideal.

All that said, I am specing out my next rifle now and have plans for several more.

If I can find the articles I will post links to what to consider but what has been said so far is a good start.

[drdougrx]

Y'know...I have had built a number of customs, both handguns and rifles.  There's nothing like'm....but...after thousands of dollars and alot of worrying about things that really don't matter....I wouldn't do it again.  I do however tweak everything I own.

Here's an example.  I have the hots for 325WSM.  I need this caliber like a hole in the head....but I want it.  How do I get it?  Well, my brother in law has a ruger 77 in 338 win that I can buy ($450), have rebarrelled ($600), restocked ($300), Timney trigger ($70), magnaport ($150) and then there's the new Leupold scope.

OR... I can buy a Rem 700SPS in 300wsm ($650) and have it rebored ($300) and the barrel shortened, Timney Trigger ($70) and removal of the J lock firing pin group if they still come that way ($60).

What to do???  I have a brown precision ruger 77 with a shilen premium barrel, etc, etc in 300win that shoots 200gr partitions like a laser at 2950fps.  I expect the new gun will be used for exactly the same purpose that the 300 is.

So...build the damn thing and get it out of your system and remember, custom guns are like hunting trophies, they mean so much to you and there's always a better one over the next hill.  Welcome to the madness.

[charles p]

Pick your gunsmith and ask him what things you can do yourself.  I remember lapping the lugs on a Mod 700 bolt and receiver.  It took several hours but it is simple if the smith will set you up with the tools and instructions.

[ssghelmick]

I am currently working on my sixth custom project, as already said they are addicting. The best advice I can give you is take your time and research your project thoroughly before you proceed with anything. A custom rifle is expensive and you want to make sure you get exactly what you want, and oh yeah now is not the time to scrimp. Buy the best components you can afford even if that means putting the project on hold until you have the money.

Remember a project such as this can be done in stages which will do two things for you. The first is it won't take a huge chunk out of your wallet all at once and the second is time in between to decide those finishing touches. When I build a rifle I tend to go with a caliber that I can't find chambered in a factory rifle anymore, But that's me. Your 22-6mm is as said earier a throat burner and I would seriously consider something else but that is up to you. After all this is your rifle but a good barrel is going to run you $600 installed and you can buy a decent factory rifle for that so like I said think it through and do your research.

Your gunsmith can order you an action or you can start with a donor off the used rack as you said. I would stay away from the military Mauser's as I have done two of these and while I would never part with either one of them they end up costing you more in the long run to make all the necessary modifications that you will want. And most importantly be patient custom work does not have a fast turn around time so be prepared for this to take up to a year or more to complete

Good luck with this and let us know how you come out.

[Catfish]

 Bob,
   I`m shooting a .22-6mm right now, but not an Ackley imp. I built it on a Savage action, I had $200 in. I had the action trued and a new trigger put in it plus and after market stock. Have abt. $ 1,000 in gun. Put an 8 1/2 x 25 Leupold on it $ 1,050. Custom dies, $100. If you do not have a case trimmer and a neck turner you will need to buy them. Now your not done buying yet because when you go to the field you will need a real good range finder and something to measure wind speed or you will still have a 400 yrd. gun.
   You will also have to know where your rifle will be hitting at all of the different yardages and the wind drift, so you will need to carry a drop chart with you. Just to give you an idea of you drop and drift, with an 80 gn. Berger VLD bullet at 3475 fps., the bullet will drop 5.3 in. from 575 to 600 yrds. Sooo, if your off 25 yrds or more in range to will be eather high or low enough to miss a coyote. From 675 to 700 yrds. the bullet will drop 6.1 inches. At 600 yrds. your bullet will drift 20.5 inches with a 10 mph cross wind. At 700 yrds. it will drift 28.8 inches.
    That should give you alittle better idea of what your getting into. If you have any more questions feel free to PM me.

[roper]

Don't get me wrong when I say this but you will see more 22 cal shot at 600yds match than at 1000yd match you can get on the Br sight and check results http://www.benchrest.com/.   You might want to look at http://www.6mmbr.com and look at their guns of the week and that will give you some idea as to caliber vs yardage.

You can buy some factory 223 rifles with 1/9 twist barrels I'd get a savage and get some experience shooting heavy 70 gr bullets then you could buy an after market barrel for sharp shooter supply change out bolt head you can headspace the rifle yourself. 
well good luck

[SingleShotShorty]

Figure on buying another barrel in about 600 rounds. A custom 220 swift will give you a fast round, and a much longer barrel life. Have fun with your project, but understand that once you do it, you'll want to do it again.

I have to agree, I would stay away from non-standard calibers and stay with a standard caliber. the 220 swift is simply bad to the bone on Yotes and with 60 grain partitions will not a deer on it's hind end with good shot placement.

[Freezer]

    I've done a couple sporter projects and allot of stock work.  One thing that turns me on is a stock that fits me.  Nobody else can form a stock that fits me like I can.  My last project was a Boyd's Microfit stock for my twin brothers Remington 600.  I think it's an ugly gun but it has it's following.  I gave it a beaver tail forend, thin pistol grip and generous palm swell.  I also removed wood from from the cheek so it fit our face correctly.  some wood was removed for asethic purposes.  Most of my forming work is done with a 4-in-1 file and some wood rasps.   If you have some wood working or whittling experience this work should be well within your capabilities.  I haven't learned to checker yet so that had to be done in a shop. 
    My brother has a Rem 700 synthetic that was his money gun but now it's in the back of his locker.  The 600 fits him like no other gun can.  The wood cost him $85 and the checkering $125. 
    The Monte Carlo cheek is a very important place on a stock.  a person with a thin face will shape a stock different than a person with a full face thus thus causing the rifle to align differently.  Similarly I prefer a thin grip with a hard drop and a palm swell.  Someone with long fingers will not like the way I shape a stock. 
    All that said my point is you may be just as happy with a tuned up factory gun with a custom stock wether you do it yourself or have it done.

[Mikey]

Bob - it doesn't matter.  There will always be hidden costs and the future need for 'tweaking'.  But do not let that bother you.  Decide on what you want and either do it yourself or have it done for you. 

But, before you go anywhere with it, box it all up with all your ammo and send it to me and I will test it out and get back to you to let you know how tough it's gonna be to get it back.

I really like custom rifles.  I have a couple of what I call 'custom' but I just really enjoy shooting a nice custom job.  Unfortunately I haven't yet been able to 'con' anyone into sending me one of theirs so I can shoot it up but I figure I'll just keep on tryin'............. Mikey.