All I can say is WOW!!!! and Help!!

[Doe]

O-my goodness!!  Should have bought a HAWKEN long..... time ago. My cabela's percussion 50 cal with patch round ball will keep all three balls in a playing card at 50 yards. I'm using Tripple-7 2F with 50 gr so far, my in-line CVA will not do that even, but that 209 primer will give me 100% ignition. The only problem I'm having with the Hawken is that the cap, some time it take 3 strike to set the cap off, that's not good at all, I'm using CCI #11 magnum cap, do you guys think i have a bad batch or should i switch my nipple?? The outside temp was 35% and it was overcast and humid could that effect the caps? or could it be the  spring in the hammer?? HELP??? I want to be able to use it for varmint and small game this year and Deer for next year.

[quickdtoo]

I'd replace the nipple, they get peened out so caps don't fit good, takes a drop of the hammer or two to seat the cap, then it will ignite. The hammer spring could be weak also which adds to the problem, I replaced the springs in all three of my Cabelas Sporter Hawkens with TC springs IIRC.

Tim

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

Buy a Spitfire stainless steel nipple from cabelas.   If you want a heavier main spring, call Traditions and order a main spring for a traditions kentucky rifle.  You'll have to file it a bit to take the nipple fit into the hole on the cva lock. They are heavy duty springs.

[Trapper-Jack]

I agree with quickdtoo in that the first one or two hammer drops are seating the cap and a new/stronger spring is not going to hurt.  That said, I've always felt that the magnum caps have a little tighter skirt than the regular #11's.  Another trick you can do is chuck the nipple in a drill press and take the shoulder down with a file while it is spinning to the point that a cap will seat with less pressure.  Go slowly so you don't over do it or you will have trouble with the cap staying on.

[captchee]

 well i would say look at you caps , what are the #10 or #11 ?

 a #10 will fit a #11  nipple but it will not seat all the way  down . you have to puch them  on good with your thumb  and even then sometimes it takes a couple falls for a #10 to go off on a #11 nipple . never use to see #10 caps . but now that cowboy action is becoming more popular  you have to watch what your getting .

 also watch for spent caps getting stuck up inside the hammer

[Doe]

You know what? Now that you guys mention that seating the cap is hard, when I'm load my cap I can't seem to push the cap all the way down, going to try sanding down the outside dia like (TRAPPER-JACK) say and see how that work first. If that don't work I'll replace the nipple, Now if that don't work then I'll check the spring right? O-ya (CAPTCHEE) they R CCI MAG #11 cap, What the dif between#11 and #10 cap???

[quickdtoo]

#10 is smaller, usually used for cap-n-ball pistol nipples.

Tim

[captchee]

 if they are 11 then they should push on fine unless you nipple is over sized or the caps really  arnt #11 .
 my wife shoots a capper and i have noticed some of her CCI work  ok while another tin will not ? so who can say .
 my bet though is you have a size issue not a spring issue

[forest2]

, some time it take 3 strike to set the cap off, that's not good at all, I'm using CCI #11 magnum cap, do you guys think i have a bad batch or should i switch my nipple??

 The #11 CCI mag cap is a good choice, and as others have said a good aftermarket "Hot Shot" style nipple will help alot. There is no need to grind or file a new "CLEAN" nipple for the caps to fit and fire, nor drill the nipple hole larger as I've seen others do.
  A very common cause of the coil spring type locks (T.C. or Lyman/Cabelas/ Investarms) to fail dropping the hammer, believe it or not is a loose screw or two.
  Take the lock out and look at the inside. There are 2-3 screws holding a plate against the inside lock face. If any of these screws are the tinniest bit loose it will cause a little thing called the "Fly Detnet" to slip out of place and stop the hammer just short of a full strike on the nipple! The fly detent is a little pointy thing on the bottom of the lock that allows the trigger sear to skip past the saftey notch of the tumbler. Spray and clean and dry that area, then put a little oil in there. Tighten the face plate screws really well, 9 thymes out of 10 that will solve the "Not Firing" problem. Ya gotta clean inside that lock.
 If you where having a "snap" of the cap without BOOM, thats a different problem.