How to replace the flint?

[Willyp]

How do you replace the flint,in the cock,and set it up for the right distance from the frizzen??? I have a Lyman Deer stalker.

[BIG JAKE]

Set the flint so it is a hair away from touching the frizzen.

[PA-Joe]

As stated, at half cock it should be a few hairs away from the frizzen.

[captchee]

well this depends on your lock .  What the other fellas here have said is true  for some locks .
BUT
 If  your lock has  a long fall you will never get even a q11/2 inch flint any where near the  frizzen at half cock .
The  back of the flint should be wrapped in leather or lead so that the jaws can hold it tightly .
 Your flint should be as wide as the frizzen and should be set so when in set to the cock it strikes the frizzen at approx ¾ face  at 90 deg or a very slight  downward angle . but that depends also on the geometry of your lock
 With the frizzen open  the flint should be pointing into the pan  yet not touching it

 here is some reading for you
http://members.aol.com/illinewek/faqs/tuning.htm

http://members.aye.net/~bspen/flintlockfaq.html

 this isnt the best link but it will elk you some

http://static.howstuffworks.com/mpeg/flintlock-frizzen.mpg

[quickdtoo]

Depending on the lock and how the flint is mounted, check to make sure the flint isn't in direct line of the touch hole with the cock all the way forward, not only will the flint get blasted each time you shoot, but it can deflect debris at the shooter, been there done that.

Tim

[captchee]

 i would disagree with quickdtoo  on this point .
 if you flash hole is aligned properly  and is set center  and split by the top of the pan “ where it should be “ and IF the lock geometry is correct the flint should end up pointing center of the pan or just forward of center pan . This will put it in direct line with the flash hole ..
 You should always remind folks standing on the lock side of your rifle  that your shooting a flintlock  as the hot gases will pepper them good if they are to close

[quickdtoo]

A lota "ifs" there, I've had it happen with three different L&R locks on two semi-custom rifles and a NW Trade gun, something to be aware of, for sure. I prefer the tip of the flint be just a hair above the touch hole if it ends up in direct line with it , that will depend a lot on each flint as each is different, the flint will last a lot longer too if it's not blasted by hot gases at every shot. 

Tim

Link deleted since captchee edited his reply #3.

http://www.5thny.org/From%20click%20to%20BANG%20-%20DISPATCH%20Article.doc

[captchee]

 the IF is becouse very few production locks have good Geometry quickdtoo
 no not say IF would be to assume otherwise

If the geometry of the lock is correct   it can be no there way .
 If the geometry is off  then it well be forward  which causes the flint to strike high on the frizzen. stop short of cutting the full case  .
IE its hammering the frizzen face

 The fall must be true in its arch in order to give the best consistency and longevity  .
 They will spark even  if not correct  but they will also eat flints .
 With a lock that has a short fall , say like the L&R Manton’s  the cock  will stop well before the pan and the flint will be above the flash hole . But  even then the geometry if correct will make a strait lint to the pan  and the cutting edge will be even with the flash hole  at the top of the pan yet not touching it .

 original locks   without stops  require  the main spring will fully extend, stalling the lock . Original Pistol locks are often this way  . This is why  you see flint available that are longer then they are wide . this so they can compinsate and produce a correct  arch in fall  dispitre haveing a cock thats inside the correct arch

 If your experiencing chunks of flint being blown at you ,the lock are not properly tuned .
 if your only getting 20 -30 falls per rock , then  you have the answer
 better locks  will seldom do  what your saying . though i have seen some cheep locks like the warrentee that  were in some cases are much better then the L&R
 they dont call them lose & rusty for nothing LOL

 basicly it all come down to the maker , how well they do their math and if they produce a quality product . one size dosnt fit all

[captchee]

 i was reading your file quickdtoo . its got some good information  some of it i would disagree with  as it contradicts  what even historic makers like Nock and Manton applied . namely the position of  the flash hole . a hole in the bottom of the pan is the worst possible location . The hole should be center of the top of the pan or just above it  for best consistency .
  ((% of the time if a flintlock shooter is getting a fuse  type ignition you will find the hole in the  bottom of the pan  or a flash hole so low as to alow prime to cover  or partualy cover the flash hole .
 maybe this is where  traditions gets their  idea of where to locate a flash hole .
  im forever deepeing their pans .  its good for buissness  on my end i guess so  who can complain

  Myself I also wouldn’t recommend using the frizzen to  Knapp the flint .
 Not only will this  break the flint at the wrong angle but with modern cast frizzen “ especially on cheaper  production guns    it’s a good way to break the frizzen or bend the  neck of the frizzen .
 I would also add color when selecting a flint as well as all the characteristics  the article suggests
 When selecting color you want a flint that’s even in color not marbled . This helps in insuring the flint is of equal hardness throughout . While even these can break  most times a flint will break through the color change or wear unevenly in that area .
 Im very picky in this  area when it comes to choosing flints  and ambers .
 I attribute this and proper tuning as to why I most times get 75  to 125 falls per flint or amber.

 While the author didn’t mention this , I will.
Never , again Never check for spark in your flintlock with a charge in the barrel . A flintlock can go off  without  prime in the pan . I have had it happen , seen it happen  and have read articles that state it can happen as often as 1 in 10 falls 

IMPROVING JAW ANGLE

Many locks are set up so that the flint points toward the front of the pan in the fired position.  Ideally, when fitted with a flint and in the fired position, the flint should point into the center of the pan, almost digging its edge into the prime.  This give the edge more time on the face of the frizzen, resulting in more sparks, and helps to direct the sparks into the prime, thereby increasing reliability and reducing lock time.  The lock at the top of the illustration below shows the proper jaw angle for greatest reliability and speed.  The bottom lock illustrates an insufficient angle for optimum performance

 this is also exactly what  i was trying to explain. Now if the flash hole is center and top of the pan , how can the flint  almost dig into the prime  considering the flash hole has to also be above the prime and not buried in it ?
Simple , it cant if the lock is tuned properly

 Anyway , good article

[quickdtoo]

As usual, you can ask a dozen folks their preference for doing something and you might get a dozen different answers and none would be wrong, what works for me, may not work for the next fella on an identical make firearm, that's just the way it goes sometimes.

Wiilyp, take it all in and draw your own conclusions as to what works best for ya, it would really be nice if you had a mentor to give you a hand, I had a fella that had been buckskinning since the early '70s help me out, and it was still a struggle, I cut my teeth on a Hatfield, a rifle with a lock notorious for poor geometry, I hope your Lyman is better than the locks in those that I've seen on the Lyman GPR, they left a lot to be desire then, but I haven't seen one for 15yrs, maybe they've improved. I see L&R makes replacement locks for the Lyman, if the Lyman lock can't be made to shoot good, one may be in your future if you fall in love with flinters like I did once I got the bugs worked out, my solution was to trade the Hatfield for a NW Trade gun and a big can of .610" balls at a rendezvous, best trade I ever made!!

Good luck,

Tim

http://www.lr-rpl.com/rpltc.htm

[BIG JAKE]

The flintlock I have is a deer stalker and this is how it was set. I have had no problems at all with it.

[captchee]

 the deer stalker has a small lock , short fall  your set up should be correct for how you  set the flint

[quickdtoo]

Here's Lyman's user's guide for their blackpowder guns, the flintlock section leaves a lot to your imagination, it's no wonder Williyp asked about it!! I'm certainly glad their publications like the BP Handbook and others aren't this vague!

Tim

http://www.lymanproducts.com/lymanproducts/LymanUsersGuide.pdf

[Willyp]

Thanks folks,I have the idea ,now.

[Buckskins & Black Powder]

How do you replace the flint,in the cock,and set it up for the right distance from the frizzen??? I have a Lyman Deer stalker.

Take a nickel, Take note of the thickness and leave that much space between the flint and frizzen.