Author Topic: Help fleshing beaver (Read 926 times)

ak_rob · « **on:** July 04, 2003, 10:25:57 AM »

I just found this site and figued I'd thow out a question.
I've out of trapping for a long time and started this last winter. I'm doing it more to get out that anything.
My question is how to flesh a beaver? The only way I've found is to put them on my beam and almost fillet the fat off them which is very slow just looking for some ticks or hints.
What kind of knife? (style,brand)

One more question do any of you use the MB-750 saw so the other day I'd hate to get my hand in one. They look big for beaver.

RdFx · « **Reply #1 on:** July 04, 2003, 12:20:46 PM »

There are many ways to flesh a bvr. Some clean skin bvr and then tack out and scrape oil off. Some flesh on beam like you have but with proper beam and flesh knife it goes fast. Another way is over your knee with sharp knive. ANother way is tack bvr partially on board and flesh with rounded bvr knive. Another way is skin like you would a rat and flesh on beam and then cut open to tack out. I would advise going to trappers rondys or NTA convention and watch skinning and fleshing demos. It will safe you alot of headaches and you will learn right and what the right equipment to buy or make.

Bogmaster · « **Reply #2 on:** July 04, 2003, 01:42:58 PM »

Rob,I do carry a new video on putting up beaver.One of the better fleshing knives is the necker.Also while the 750 does look large,take a good look at the size of a beavers hind foot.That big foot can span the entire jawspread of a #3,that is why so many new trappers have trouble catching beav, they try to use to small a trap. Tom

Tim B · « **Reply #3 on:** July 07, 2003, 03:53:39 AM »

Rob,
here are two of the best tips I have got for putting up beaver:
#1 (and this one came from Bogmaster) Let your beavers lay in a cold area on newspapers/cardboard for a few days...this way the blood cougoulates and makes for a neater skinnin job.

#2 Set your beaver pelt outside (if its cold enough) or in the freezer for a little while before you flesh it. This allows the fat to 'set' and allows you to flesh a little easier.

and if you ever get some MB-750's you wont be dissapointed. They are excellent traps.

Tim B

ak_rob · « **Reply #4 on:** July 08, 2003, 06:03:08 AM »

Thanks all for the info.
I did join the Alaska Trappers Asso. but they don't meet till this fall and I'm just triing to get a jump start on next season.

Here's another question I shot an otter last season while out checking traps (best day all season) anyway. I was wondering is there a way to know about how many otter I have in an area I know they move in and out though the season but once the ice comes it hard to tell. I see signs at almost all open water so I'm thinking there are quite a few any way to tell??

RdFx · « **Reply #5 on:** July 08, 2003, 11:49:25 AM »

With otter you have to have the trap there before the otter comes and also you leave the trap there in a specific place that otter comes and also taking into mind if the set will work all season. Otters are where ever they are in summer they are in winter. Bottom edge sets work great in open water or underice as otter swim there in all seasons. Remember even if it is an old bvr pond or flowage and no bvr , OTTER STILL WILL VISIT. So learn how to set in your type of country and sharpen yr skinning knives and have a bunch of otter boards ready. Otter are very easy to catch. Problem is even with not trying to target otter i catch more than my limit and i have to turn them into the DNR. This fur goes to trapping education for wardesn and the public so fur resource goes to good cause.