Author Topic: Whar iz everybody? (Read 20702 times)

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #90 on:** September 13, 2003, 12:53:34 PM »

YEEEE #%$^#$$%%$@ HAWW!

She's had a mouth full 'n' survived in tact!

Me cannon waz tested with blanks two weeks ago but taday I hauled the cannon barrel out to the range 'n' set 'er up in the test stand.

We loaded 1/2 Ounce of powder 'n' a lead ball. Whal, it seems our evelation waz a bit off. Out at 50 yards, thar's a "baffle" made outta 4x4s ta stop any high shots from leavin the range.

Ya know what?

It don't stop a 1" cannon ball :shock: Nope, it don't. The hole on the back waz the same size as the hole in the front. I wonner how far that ball went?

After adjustin our elevation we went to a 3/4 ounce charge 'n' fired a second round. Then finished off with a 1 Ounce charge (recommended maximum) 'n' everythang held tagether jist fine!

I'z amazed at the amount of force it puts on that ball with no patch and 0.015" of windage! Unbelievable! (Ain't gonna waste time with a patch!)

I'z asked Mohave Gambler if'n he post up a video clip 'n' ya kin see it when it gets posted - I'll post the link here.

Got a good start on the woodwork this week; got most of the white oak cut. It's jist about cooled off nuff up here to fire up the forge so I otta start blacksmithin all the danged little fittings ta put the carriage tagether.

YEEEEHAAWWWW! Calamity's Cannon Company is in business! :-D

CJ

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #91 on:** September 13, 2003, 01:17:23 PM »

CELEBRATE!

Was that first escaped round headed SouthEast? Maybe that's what I heard whisting over in low earth orbit.

.015" clearance is tight - good. You'll notice it quickly if your cleaning between shots isn't good. The looong tube should assist in full burning of the powder. Mortar tubes tend to gunk up fast when one uses lots of fuel.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #92 on:** September 14, 2003, 12:21:32 AM »

Video clipp "Max Power" here: http://home.inreach.com/mohave.gambler/

CJ

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #93 on:** September 19, 2003, 03:39:25 PM »

This place haz been quieter this week than a cathouse on Sunday mornin!

Whal, with the barrel tested, I finally got a start on the carriage this week. Thar's a few new pictures up on me "alternate site" at http://www.geocities.com/winnonad/index

If any of ya ain't seen the rest of the story, visit me main page at http://www.geocities.com/diannebest

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #94 on:** September 19, 2003, 04:53:05 PM »

CJ -

Nice touch on the ironwork. That's something that really sets it off as a quality piece.

Double D · « **Reply #95 on:** September 19, 2003, 05:59:34 PM »

Why didn't I think if that! Cut the Iron, bend and weld!

Good Job!

Fred · « **Reply #96 on:** September 21, 2003, 05:11:59 PM »

Looks reallynice, wish I had some of your skills.

For the less skilled we find a pipe with the inside dia. the size of the trunions, cut in half and weld the flat metal to it.

Your iron work looks as neat as a page out of a catalog.

FRED................................

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #97 on:** September 22, 2003, 12:29:54 AM »

Good technique, Fred.
Thanks for sharing it.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #98 on:** September 26, 2003, 08:45:22 AM »

Got the elevation screw done - it come out better than I waz expectin!

I ain't gonna tell ya how I done it - yer gonna haffta go see fer yerself :shock: over at http://www.geocities.com/winnonad/

(I also rearranged the auxilliary site like me main site, so ya don't haffta see ALL the pictures every time.)

Took taday off werk ta putter in the shop 'n' the way the screw come out, I'z pleased with me choice!

Now time fer a bite to eat 'n' a little afternoon nap - jist so it feels like a day off

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #99 on:** September 26, 2003, 03:23:59 PM »

Annother excellent innovation. Are you going to develop a table of fire that includes how much range is added for each turn of the screw?

For those that don't have a lathe, the acme threaded shafts and the nuts to match them are standard items available from places as MSC and McMaster-Carr.

Since I have one of the two lathes I own up and running (and not the one with the working feed screw) I look for things I can adapt (to get out of having to do any threading). So I have several acme threaded assemblies ready to affix to mortars for elevation - namely the mechanisms from scissors jacks (procured at a variety of yard sales for fifty cents to two bucks (US) each. The really old ones are the best.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #100 on:** September 27, 2003, 01:56:43 PM »

Whal, the chin bolts, key bolts, and caps are done! :-D I even made a set of temporary wheels fer it (in case the opportunity comes up ta go shootin!) - since it's now far enough along to fire on its carriage instead of the 2x4 test stand. I'm sure looking forward to seeing how much it recoils on its proper carriage!

The caps didn't come out as precise as I would have preferred, but I can always make new ones later.

BTW: Is there jist the four of us that hang 'round this board? I'z never seen anybody else here....

Hopin it don't snow tanight . . . .

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #101 on:** September 27, 2003, 02:33:13 PM »

Yours was the 100th post on this topic - we hit the century mark!

No prize, just the satisfaction of being the star attraction on this board!

OK, so the movie idea isn't on the front burner, how about setting up a production line? Can these be imported. Would it be easier to get through customs if listed as paperweights or cigarette lighters?

Counting the hours, what is the cost of the shootin' iron thus far?

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #102 on:** September 27, 2003, 04:39:46 PM »

Evenin Cat.

The cost, so far, is about $800 direct: bronze, steel, oak, two hand reamers, and 1 65-ton press job :wink: I don't count indirect costs like paint, bolts, etc. cause some comes outta me "shop supplies" 'n' some left-overs go into shop stock.

Hours? Whal, the way I go about thangs, I do about 20 hours a week 'n' started buildin about mid June (14 weeks ago) so it's about 280 hours so far. me employer bills me time at about $50/hour, so that'd be $14,000 labour :shock: (Spent near 24 hours on it in the past 2 days! - one of the advantages of living alone - only me Bloodhound giving me dirty looks when supper is late!)

(I built me steam engine in 50 weeks, 2,000 hours, but that was a year when I didn't do nuthin but werk 'n' steam engine.)

Thar's a LOT of little stuff yet to do. It looks like I'll have to make all the chains myself, one link at a time, 'cause I can't find anything 1/3 scale. There's quite a few brackets 'n' other li'l fittings to.

Paper weight? Yup; it'd do that.

Cigarette lighter? I ain't puttin MY face in front of the muzzle!

Importing? Whal, I'm gonna put it on my AFT From 6 for next year so I kin take it to Cowboy Action matches south of the 49th - we'll see what Washington has to say about it :-D

Double D · « **Reply #103 on:** September 28, 2003, 02:55:43 AM »

CJ,

I just found an article on how to do a liner in a cast gun. You bore the iron tube out. Cover the steel liner in epoxy and slide it in. Then you machine the muzzle flush. Drill three holes around the circumference of the muzzle of the liner, half in the liner and half in the tube. Drill and tap. Screw in tight three cap screws tight, saw off and face. Liners set. no press.....don't throw nothing at me the magazine was still in storage when you started! :grin:

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #104 on:** September 28, 2003, 09:33:03 AM »

That's ok DD, I'z happy with the way thangs turned out.

From my shop experience I've learned there's two things epoxy wont tollerate: heat & shock. Epoxy turns to a sticky paste over about 400F with no strength to speak of. When cold (about 50F or less), epoxy shatters when subjected to shock loads. Either method is effective at removing pieces that have been epoxied together.

Trail Pale question:

Do the umpti-zillion bolts that secure the trail plate to the trail pass thru the upper plate, thru the trail, and then thru the lower plate?

My drawings are unclear on this point; it sort of looks like they do, but not all the holes are "aligned"! The chin bolt on the cheek is like that - angled - and it is a PAIN to drill a deep hole at an angle and try to come out where you want to :?

I know the front and rear pointing rings secure to 2 bolts each but I wonder about the wisdom of drilling so many holes thru the small part of the trail - turning it into Swiss cheese! :shock:

What do you folks do?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #105 on:** September 28, 2003, 01:55:23 PM »

CJ -
There is no question as to the fact that reaming & pressing the liner into the bore is the time-tested method of assembly. However, eqpoxies have come a long way in their applications. Each has it's limitations, of course - just like every other material, but let me site a few applications.

I have some commerical epoxy used to cement the tiles onto the nosecone of the X-15 - which is subjected to both heat and shock - obviously not the 5-minute epoxy from your local Ace hardware store. And also there is in common practice the cementing of barrel liners into vintage rifles of calibers .22, .25 and lower powered .30's. A third common example is the use of epoxy in glass bedding the actions of high-powered rifles.

I agree that the Corvettes suffer greatly when in 'fender-bender' accidents, but there are some applications where, though unusual, the use of epoxy is quite funcitional. Another example of the newer materials is the technique of taking a rifle barrel, turning off most of the metal around the bore and then (while stressing the tube) filling in back in (on the outside) with carbon fiber. Very strong, straight and light weight.

So you can be proud that you have done it in the time-honored traditional method - with the requisite amount of sweat-equity. You did the right thing - after all, yours is a scale model. In the same respect, the mortars I make are not welded together DOM tubing and breach plugs - because I've chosen not to come any where near the smallest possibility of a weld causing a crack. In my case admittedly fear driven.

Now, trail plate. Don't know. I think conventional wisdom is that the plates are to reinforce and provide tensile strength. The traditional engineering response would be to build one that you think is reasonable and on the second model reinforce it where the first one broke.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #106 on:** September 29, 2003, 10:32:28 AM »

Whal, thar's even more pictures up on me overflow site - finished the caps 'n' the trail plate.

Jist couldn't see makin 8 holes thru the trail to attach the trail plate - seemed really excessive fer a "non-load bearing" attachment - so I used only 4, the same four that the pointing rings will attach to.

Think I'll replace them bolts with countersunk screws (from the bottom) so I kin keep the bottom of the trail smooth. (I KNOW[/b] what would happen to the cannon if one o' them bolt heads caught on sommit during recoil :eek: )

Thangs kind'o got side-tracked today. I waz plannin to take the cannon to our Cowboy Action fun shoot next Sunday 'n' have some fun. Jist found out that the main newspaper from the Big City is gonna be thar ta do a story on Cowboy Action.

Now I'z in a quandry - I don't wanna upstage the Cowboy Action - we need the good press up here in the land of gun control! I'd also rather not have the newspaper around when I'z shootin a brand new cannon - it'll be the first time it's been fired on its own carriage.

On t'other hand, this same newspaper done a real nice feature story on me back in '97 when I'd jist finished me steam engine.

Sooooo, I don't quite know what ta do.

Anyway, drop by me page 'n' have a gander at the new photos on the "Caps & Trail Plate" page.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #107 on:** October 04, 2003, 03:08:01 AM »

Whal, I didn't like the solid wood wheels, so I stole the steel wheels off'n me gun cart - they look better on the cannon fer gettin its picture took tomorrow.

I'z got 40 balls 'n' 15 charges of powder put up fer tomorrow so I'z gonna see if I kin actually HIT anythang with it tomorrow!

I'z gonna try postin its picture here.

Double D · « **Reply #108 on:** October 04, 2003, 04:52:58 AM »

Don't let anyone stand behind that gun when it fires, it' gonna move!

savageT · « **Reply #109 on:** October 04, 2003, 05:04:42 AM »

Quote from: Calamity Jane

Whal, I didn't like the solid wood wheels, so I stole the steel wheels off'n me gun cart - they look better on the cannon fer gettin its picture took tomorrow.

I'z got 40 balls 'n' 15 charges of powder put up fer tomorrow so I'z gonna see if I kin actually HIT anythang with it tomorrow!

I'z gonna try postin its picture here.

Hey calamity!

Can you take another photo of that beauty with something like a ruler or yardstick in the photo so's I can get a feel for its actual size....looks like one a them #20 lb. Bronze Thumpers! Gorgious and Booootiful.

Jim

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #110 on:** October 04, 2003, 09:56:50 AM »

T: Them wheels iz 15" diameter.

DD: It recoiled about 2 feet on the test stand (with a full charge 'n' a ball) so I figger it's probably gonna back up about 4 feet on the wheels.

Taday I replaced the trail plate bolts with countersunk screws (from the bottom) so the bottom of the trail plate is smooth 'n' wont catch on nuthin.

I'm hopin it comes straight back rather than tryin ta jump up. If it recoils TOO far, I'll have ta tie a sandbag to it 'n' let it drag the sandbag!

I also done up nuther dozen charges so I kin shoot to me heart's delight tomorrow (or until the bore starts gettin tight - don't got a cylindrical brush yet).

Gonna try ta get some video tomorrow.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #111 on:** October 23, 2003, 02:42:09 PM »

My goodness (and thar ain't much o' that! ) it's been quiet 'round here lately!

I'z had Little Booms (me cannon) out to the range a few times now 'n' put about 25 rounds down range.

I made a set of sights fer it 'n' tried "target shootin" last weekend.

At 25 yards, two shots printed within 3" of each other. :-D

At 35 yards, two shots printed 12" high and 18" apart, one on each side of center. :?

At 50 yards, one shot printed 18" low and 18" right and the next shot went right over the target - about 24" high! :cry:

I AIN'T happy 'bout that! :evil:

Despite cautions to the contrary, I think I'z gonna try a greased patch 'n' see if 0.015 windage is causin the ball to "bounce down the barrel".

Ain't done a whole lot more buildin lately - been too busy shootin a'fore'n the snow comes! I had one go at the forward pointing ring but didn't like the way it come out. Did nuther one tanight - took most of the evening - 'n' it come out a lot better. I'll probably have a go at the hinged pointing ring on the weekend.

So, what you fellers been up to?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #112 on:** October 23, 2003, 03:09:30 PM »

CJ -
Now is the time for the black powder shooters (that shoot the punkin balls from muskets) to speak up about accuracy. It's an art.

Cleaning between rounds probably has an affect on accuracy

Also, you might try a hollow base cylindrical boolet. I'm sure that if the sphere rolls down the tube it'll hook or slice. (Noteably so when firing golf balls!)

I wonder what some of the folks from the N-SSA have to say?

Double D · « **Reply #113 on:** October 24, 2003, 09:03:22 AM »

Let us know if you can seat a patched ball in the cannon. There is a lot more surface area for friction in a cannon bore than a .54 cal smooth bore. I'll bet it's tough the first time but within a shoot or two impossible.

The N-SSA safety rules prohibit patched balls in their shooting.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #114 on:** October 24, 2003, 09:48:24 AM »

Quote

The N-SSA safety rules prohibit patched balls in their shooting

Zat in smooth bore muskets? I know they don't patch cannon balls.

Double D · « **Reply #115 on:** October 24, 2003, 11:10:03 AM »

I only know Cannons. They prohibit patched balls in smooth bore cannon for safety reasons. Excessive pressure on firing and it's to dangerous to ram them home while loading.

Calamity Jane · « **Reply #116 on:** October 28, 2003, 09:19:54 AM »

Ya, I gotta admit, I'z a bit reluctant ta try stuffin a patched ball down that hole. First, I'd haffta make a metal ramrod cause me wooden one wouldn't werk. Second, if I get it part way home 'n' no further, it's take 3 big men and a small boy with a block 'n' tackle ta pull the ball.

I'm wonderin about some kind of a "wad", sommit sort'a shaped like >< what would go twixt the ball 'n' the powder..

Anybody ever used paper wads?

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #117 on:** October 28, 2003, 02:30:58 PM »

A couple of ideas.

First, having used some newsprint - recognize that it does catch fire when launched.

Second, with First in mind, one could easily cut circles of various types of cardboard to build up a 'wad column' as with a scatter-gun.

Past that, I remember seeing some grapeshot with a wooden disk about 1" thick underneith. There are hole-saws that would do well for production quantities if mounted in a drill press.

Then one might consider pvc pipe. Although it does have a rather large hole in the middle, the OD is a very precise dimension. (A notable size is that 1/2" cpvc is EXACTLY .625" OD which is EXACTLY the bore diameter of my fully rifled 20 gauge.) Could there be larger sizes that might match up with cannon calibers?

What about steel washers? There's mass, consistant size and a neat hole down the center to bolt the works together; with maybe interleaving disks of cardboard if needed to bring up to exact bore diameter.

Sorry. You did ask for ideas and the brain turned on.

Cat Whisperer · « **Reply #118 on:** March 09, 2005, 03:34:44 PM »

For those folks that are new to the board, I'm bringing this thread to the forefront. It is good reading - through all 4 pages of posts! There are several other topics in which CJ's cannon is featured, but this one is full of the excitement of BUILDING a cannon!

hammer shell · « **Reply #119 on:** April 06, 2005, 07:05:43 PM »

being new to the board i really have enjoyed reading thru the 100 or so posts on the cannon build up. the only thing i'm not clear on is how the barrel is breached.

as far as getting it to fire more acurrately,i think cw is right on with some sort of wad to push the the ball out. i would suggest finding some virgin craft paper and make up a mixture of paste,as in wall paper paste. coat the paper in paste till it is saturated,and squeeze out the excess.find a tube with the same inside bore diameter as your bore. wad up half a caliber of pasted paper and place a ball on top in the tube.then compress,and let dry a day or two. what you will have is a preformed wad that will conform to your ball.

it should be much less of a fire hazard, could even be treated to make it more so..you might even experiment with different thickness of wads....hammer