Author Topic: First Chain Saw Purchase! (Read 3259 times)

XD9 · « **on:** March 03, 2008, 03:01:45 AM »

Bought my first chain saw over the weekend...Stihl MS 250 with an 18" bar. I think I'll be happy with it. I looked a lot at the Husqvarnas but I've heard some mixed opinions of them lately and that they're not as good as they once were. Plus, Poulan is making some of them now and Husqvarna is then branding them. Anyway, bought a Stihl from my local dealer and looking forward to using it for the first time. Anyone own this model? How do you like it?

I'll just be an occasional user...when trees fall, need firewood, etc.

myronman3 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 03, 2008, 10:35:38 AM »

i used a stihl on the line crew and when i needed a saw for around the house, i got a stihl because i liked the one i used at work, because grandpa used stihl, and because it was one of the big 3 (stihl, johnsrud, husky). of my friends that make their living with saws, each has their own preference, but all of them use one of the big 3.

my experiences with stihl have been nothing but good.

Gary G · « **Reply #2 on:** April 14, 2008, 02:42:18 PM »

It is my understanding that Jonsered is made in the husky plant. And that Stihl and Husky make both commercial and weekend warrior grades. I think stihl uses even and odd numbers to identify them, but I can't remember which. My last saw bought was an Echo and I like it pretty well.

buckfever 1 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 12, 2008, 04:00:56 PM »

I have a cabin north of Grand Rapids, Minnesota. This is logging country and they have pretty strong opinions on saws. They don't use more than a 20" blade do to Popular tree size mostly. The vast majority use Husky's. The reasons they give you is reliability and a higher cutting RPM. More cut lumber in a day more money. The other big three are next. I have used all big three and have never had a problem with any off them. If you are a casual cutter the best dealer is all you need to make your decision on.

Buckfever

30-30man · « **Reply #4 on:** September 13, 2008, 03:23:53 PM »

I bought my share of Poulans and thought they were the best thing out there until I bought a Husky. I settled on a 350 and with the 52-53cc(don't remember) engine, it will really send the chips flying. I couldn't believe the difference. I'll never buy a saw again with less than 50cc, no matter what bar is on it.

The only thing that made me shy away from Stihl is the weedeater I have. It is a bugger to start and always has been since new. My father-in-law has a small 170 Stihl and it is the same way. .Not saying all of them are that way, but the ones I've seen.

ihookem · « **Reply #5 on:** September 27, 2008, 04:05:05 PM »

If you don't start your Stihl every few weeks it will start hard, maybe 10- 20 pulls. If you run it every day or two it will start the first few pulls from my experience. It is the only thing I never liked about my Stihl 026 and 034.

myronman3 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 10, 2008, 02:56:08 AM »

all my stihls start with six pulls or less. whether they sat 3 days or half a year. i have a weedeater and a chainsaw. i am looking at another bigger saw, and either will get a farm boss stihl or a husky of the same size. i am leaning toward the husky right now.

Graybeard · « **Reply #7 on:** October 10, 2008, 03:26:23 AM »

I own two Stihl chainsaws a large and a small one can't recall the model numbers of either. There seems to be a required starting procedure that if followed they crank and run easily and if not followed to the letter they just don't wanna crank or run period.

Put bar lock in lock position. Put the selection lever in the full down position and lock the throttle in wide open position. Pull cord a time or two until it shows evidence it wants to crank. Then move the selector lever up one notch and pull the cord again. Generally speaking they then crank on that first pull and continue to run. Leave it running with chain locked for a few seconds then release the chain and mash the throttle to release it from full wide open and all works well.

Deviate in any minor detail from that procedure and the darn things will not crank or run for me regardless of effort. Kinda weird if you ask me but so long as I follow the above they work fine. If I don't they won't run at all.

If I ever buy another it WILL NOT be a Stihl it will be a Husky.

myronman3 · « **Reply #8 on:** October 10, 2008, 10:01:42 AM »

right on g.b.. you full choke it and yank until it fires; usually two pulls. kick it up one click to half choke, give it a pull or two and it is running, mash the gas and you are in buisness. the only thing i do different is i do not lock the bar.

oldandslow · « **Reply #9 on:** October 10, 2008, 12:25:41 PM »

Quote from: myronman3 on October 10, 2008, 10:01:42 AM

right on g.b.. you full choke it and yank until it fires; usually two pulls. kick it up one click to half choke, give it a pull or two and it is running, mash the gas and you are in buisness. the only thing i do different is i do not lock the bar.

Same here. Same deal if it ran yesterday or six months ago.

30-30man · « **Reply #10 on:** October 11, 2008, 07:30:04 AM »

When saws require 6 or more pulls, there is something wrong. It usually needs a plug or is flooded. I wish they made saws like they use to. I still own a Homelite 360 and an old McCulloch 35 gear drive. The McCulloch runs like a tank but I'm scared to use it. It was my father's and I'd like to keep it around. The parts are almost as rare as hen's teeth now. It is also very hard to find the big chains that the Macs came with anymore. I don't know what the size is but the teeth on my old Mac are at least five times what I see on other saws.

JBlk · « **Reply #11 on:** October 12, 2008, 05:14:16 AM »

I have numerous chain saws of various manufactures.For day in and day out performance the Sthil saw is difficult to beat.All of the saws are good if you keep them clean and the chain sharp, and the cheap saws hang in there with some of the best.I would pay more attention to the weight,the bar length, the chain type and the price than I would of the manufacturer.The older you get the more you will realise that the weight and bar Lent are probably the most import en considerations.

Doug B. · « **Reply #12 on:** February 19, 2009, 03:37:03 AM »

My Stihl 024 would start hard and had somewhat of a "dead spot" in the throttle once up and running. I got away from 87 octane and now burn a higher octane ethanol fuel. This has alleviated the starting and "dead spot" issues, and considering the small amount of 2 stroke fuel I burn, it's worth the few extra cents per gallon. I wish I could find just a "standard" regular fuel in our area and stay away from the ethanol blends. I may be out in left field, but I understand that vehicles get better MPG burning non-ethanol fuels as well.

Forgot to mention that I have gone to fully synthetic oil which includes a fuel stabilizer. I now have one mix that irregardless of the recommended fuel/oil mixture, I can run ALL my small 2 strokes on the same mix up to a 100:1 mix. Appears as though I have more power and less smoke and oil "drool" at the muffler. Plugs last a LOT longer as well. This in combination with the higher octane gas appears to make my Stihl start a little better.

gypsyman · « **Reply #13 on:** February 19, 2009, 12:57:32 PM »

Weather it was my Mac, the Poulan I bought to replace it, or the Husky. Start procedure for me was/is always the same. Prep saw,(chain,gas,etc.) full choke it in the off position,full throttle.2-3 pulls, flip switch to on,lock throttle 1/2, pull. 1-2 pulls always did it, unless there was something wrong,carb needed adj.,plug fouled out, they always started. Maybe I just get lucky. gypsyman

loknlod · « **Reply #14 on:** March 04, 2009, 09:20:12 AM »

Ok, I'll chime in on this now that my saw has a few years use behind it. I have the Stihl MS230-C like this one: http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/MS230CBE.html

I have been very impressed with this saw for 3 seasons of getting firewood (20 to 30 cord total) and it is very easy to start. I bought this model because my Stihl rep recommended it as a homeowner saw which was not overkill for my needs. The 16" bar is plenty long and at 40.2 cc it really zips through wood as long as you keep the air filter clean. BTW you can do that out in the sticks when needed, I just carry a spray bottle of soapy water (filter is meant to be cleaned with water) or an extra filter. This model has a primer bulb for the fuel (one reason I bought it) and the "easy start" system (which I was leary of) but if I wanted the fuel primer bulb, I had to buy the "easy start".
For those of you not familiar with the "easy start" system, you pull the rope slowly and steadily out and let it retract back into the saw. The engine has not turned over yet but it will in just a second or 2. When you pulled the rope, it wound up a spring which will spin the engine over for you. After 2 pulls on full choke, the engine fires and dies and you swich to half choke. The next pull the engine is running, end of story. No looking like a "monkey f****ing a football" pulling and pulling and pulling wondering if it is flooded, not getting fuel etc. I have never had this saw not start for me, even when I accidentally screwed up the recommended starting procedure. Any questions, go to your dealer and see how it works. I was worried buying this saw at first but I wanted a saw that the wife could use if she needed to and the "easy start" system made that doable for her.

Was this saw cheap? No, but to have a knowledgable dealer nearby and good service department (if I should need it) I see value, not expense. This saw has cut a lot of wood, can be maintained out in the woods with no tools (chain adjuster is tooless also) and is very user friendly. Until proven otherwise, I'll stick with my Stihl.

Sorry I cannot speak up for any other models or brands, all I can tell you is what works for me.

deerhuntertyler · « **Reply #15 on:** March 26, 2009, 12:33:03 PM »

I have a stihle chain saw as my main saw. it has a 20" bar but i don't remember the model. My back up saw is an old Husky that starts like hell and weighs a ton.

Oldshooter · « **Reply #16 on:** March 26, 2009, 01:42:23 PM »

I inherited a stihl chain saw from my Dad, it has a 21 inch bar I think, dont use it often, its a 70's model.

The kill switch broke so I removed it. Now you choke it to kill it and choke it to start it(when its cold)
It generally starts with two pulls cold.

If you screw up and choke it to much(more than 1 pull) you may as well go have dinner!

When it does start there aint nothing that will out cut it! a little thicker chain than the new ones but man it goes to town!

I also have some other Stihl products, and I'm well satisfied, I also have a Stihl(only) shop 8 minutes from here! So stihl it is!

schoolmaster · « **Reply #17 on:** March 28, 2009, 04:23:05 PM »

I have 2 Stihl saws that I bought in the last 2 years. My first one is the 250 model with EZ start and tool less chain adjuster. My second one is the miniboss with the same features. I looked at and handled a bunch of different saws before deciding on the Stihls. Both have performed very well and no complaints. Friendly and helpful dealer within 5 miles. All good. I use all the Stihl products and premium gas and keep a good sharp chain on my saws. No problems.

Rex in OTZ · « **Reply #18 on:** April 27, 2009, 02:26:36 PM »

Just so happens I have a loaner sthil chainsaw the boater use during the summer, they prey on the easy stuff and end up trashing a new bar and 3-4 chains a summer, the tree trunks have a fine silt imbedded in the wood that is a little harsh on the bar & chain the 20 inch bar the auto oiler is set as high as it will go and still burning up chains, considering going to a shorter bar with the auto oiler set on max mabe it could keep up?? seen folk in town bringing in river drift wood (black spruce) they use a power sprayer first to jet off any silt they can first.

okielectrician · « **Reply #19 on:** April 27, 2009, 04:16:17 PM »

Regardless of the brand,if it starts when you need it thats great but if you dont keep the chain sharp they all will be a pain.Always invest in a good sharpening system and give it a good cleaning to keep the oiling system flowing.(Sharp and oiled chain makes for easy cutting).