Military stock cleanup and finish Question?

[prairiedog555]

My Mod 48 Mauser looks almost like it is unfired, except for the stock.  It is all dark and oily.  I have sanded it quite a bit and removed a lot of surface goo and have gotten  down to bare wood, except for certain areas that the oil has permeated the grain. 
My question is if there is any method or treatment that I can do to draw that oil out?  Other than sanding. 
Also what is the best way to finish the stock, gun oil? Neats foot oil or what?

Thanks

[Spanky]

Spray the stock with oven cleaner. It will draw the cosmoline out of the wood. If you have a big enough oven (or a short stock) you can put it in your oven at 175 degrees or so and that will draw it out too.
I used an oven for my sporterized Mosin Nagant stock and it worked very well. About 20 minutes at 175 degrees and the cosmoline was literally dripping off the wood. Just wipe the cosmoline off and let the stock dry and cool down.
If you use oven cleaner, make sure you clean the wood good afterwards.

I like to use Tru Oil or Tung oil. I have had excellent results with both.
I  plan on using Linseed oil on my next project. I have heard good things about linseed oil.



Spanky

[TribReady]

Stop,stop, stop.  Do not use oven cleaner. Sorry, but although it cleans the surface, it also destroys the wood cells (very well researched and documented--you just don't see it until it's too late).  Staining will be affected, as well as longevity of the wood.
Since you only have a few "bad spots", heat those areas with a good hairdryer or heat gun.  Be careful not to burn the wood if using the heat gun. That will help leech out alot of that cosmoline in that spot.
Now, you can finish from there, or use a "Spit Coat" A spit coat of shellac will seal in any cosmoline buried within the stock.  It won't be able to penetrate out (atleast it shouldn't, but mine still "leak" a little if I really heat er up at the range).  The cosmoline in the stock will not hurt it...it's been preserving rifles for a ton of years.
I like to use a good stain to get an even color, then Tung Oil.  Follow proper instructions on the tung oil.  Apply 8-9 coats over the next week or so and you'll have a durable stock with as close to a proper finish as you're going to get.

[AtlLaw]

Stop,stop, stop.  Do not use oven cleaner. Sorry, but although it cleans the surface, it also destroys the wood cells (very well researched and documented--you just don't see it until it's too late).  Staining will be affected, as well as longevity of the wood.

Hummm.  I've been stripping stocks with oven cleaner for many years.  There has always been some nay-sayers about that but no definitive studies that I was aware of.  Is there something I missed in the last 10-20 years?  What exactly is it that you don't see until it's to late?  I've got Garands, Enfields (Lee & 1917's), Springfields, FAL's, Mausers and a few sporting guns I've stripped with oven cleaner and I don't see anything except they look a lot better.  Matter of fact I've got a couple more Garand stocks and a Remington or two I'm trying to find time to strip right now!

[Mikey]

AtlLaw:  I think the issue with oven cleaner is that some folk have let it stay on the stock for too long, or let it stay for too long and also put it in the oven, and that resulted in stock damage.  I believe one of the 'agents' in oven cleaners either reduces or destroys the cellulose in wood stocks.

I have heard of some folk using spray on oven cleaner but wiping it off immediately and not damaging the stock and this seems to help get the Cosmo off. 

I have used Murphy's Oil Soap, a diluted solution and wipe off immediately, just to get the surface gunk off.  Then I usually put the stock, minus all the hardware, in the oven for a few minutes to get more of the Cosmo to soften and leak out of the stock and repeat the process until I have it clean, or at least as clean as I want it.

I don't usually refinish my military stocks with any coating, just leave them with an oil finish that is a rain or snow resistant as I want it to be. 

But I'll tellya, no matter how much Cosmo I remove from a gunstock I always seem to get some more seeping out after a hot day at the range.  It seems as though you can never get the stuff completely out.  Mikey.

[AtlLaw]

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I think the issue with oven cleaner is that some folk have let it stay on the stock for too long, or let it stay for too long and also put it in the oven, and that resulted in stock damage.  I believe one of the 'agents' in oven cleaners either reduces or destroys the cellulose in wood stocks.

It's pretty strong (lye based I believe) stuff no doubt.  Intuitively one can easily believe it would damage the cellulose structure as you say.  I haven't had any problem using it however.    But then I spray it on, let it set a few minutes, then wash it off while scrubbing with a bristle brush.  That removes all the finish/comoline I have ever wanted to get off a stock.  Sorry though, I'm not about to take a chance with a stock to see how the stuff can be abused.... oven?


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I have used Murphy's Oil Soap, a diluted solution and wipe off immediately, just to get the surface gunk off.  Then I usually put the stock, minus all the hardware, in the oven for a few minutes to get more of the Cosmo to soften and leak out of the stock and repeat the process until I have it clean, or at least as clean as I want it.

Good method, I still have a bunch of MOS laying around.  But the older I get the lazier I get.


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I don't usually refinish my military stocks with any coating, just leave them with an oil finish that is a rain or snow resistant as I want it to be.

Ditto.  Usually just BLO unless I'm trying to get color fancy with a stock for some reason.


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no matter how much Cosmo I remove from a gun stock I always seem to get some more seeping out after a hot day at the range.  It seems as though you can never get the stuff completely out.

Great stuff ain't it!

BTW, I reread my post and it kinda sounded like I was trying to start an argument with TR.  That, of course, was not my intention.  I was really curious to learn about any new information.  Never to old to learn.

[TribReady]

AtlLaw- Don't worry about disagreeing....I've been married long enough to be used to it.
As far as oven cleaner, I think you're on the right track by not using it very long, but if you're doing that, why not just use a "safer" product (acetone, lacquer thinner,orange/purple cleaners)
For a ton of info gathered over the last 5-10 years, check out the stock cleaning forum on Parallax Bill's website.
www.parallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforums.yuku.com/forums/

Really, for most of us, and the relatively low value  of our rifles, any method will be suitable.  I still personally think using the better method trumps using a good method

[Castaway]

Whiting is the classic method.  I found this over on the "firing line" forum.  Hope it helps.

There's any number of methods, but the old time stockmaker and furniture maker method is the safest for the wood and most effective.

You'll need a good solvent, preferably non-inflammable. The best is Triclorathane, commonly known as Clorathane.
Also a jar of "whiting", which is Calcium Carbonate. This is a white, flour-like powder.
You can buy whiting from Brownell's and from many local drug stores.

The actual method depends on whether your solvent is inflammable or not.

Mix the solvent up with whiting until you have a pancake batter consistency.

Apply a thick coat of the solvent-whiting to the wood, including the butt area and the inletting.
Depending on how big the stock is you can coat it a section at a time.

IF the solvent is non-inflammable, apply heat with a heat gun, or hold the wood over an ELECTRIC stove burner.

The solvent will soak into the wood and dissolve the grease and oil, and the heat will cause it to "boil" to the surface, where it will be absorbed by the whiting.

Normal methods using solvents, soaps, or other chemicals can bring the grease to the surface, BUT they can't lift it ABOVE the surface.
As soon as the solvent evaporates or the heat is removed, the gunk is re-absorbed into the wood before you can wipe it off, no matter how fast you try.

The whiting actually wicks the oil out of the wood and absorbs it, where it's held. This turns the whiting orange and brown.

Simply wipe the dirty whiting off and re-apply.
Usually 2-3 applications will return even a black grease soaked stock to it's natural color.

If you don't have a non-inflammable solvent, apply the whiting with whatever solvent you do have, then quickly wrap the stock up tightly in a black plastic trash bag, and lay it on a driveway or roof top in direct sunlight on a hot day.

Allow to stand for a few hours, then unwrap, brush off the dirty whiting and re-apply.

This method is much less damaging to the wood than using dishwashers, oven cleaner, or strong liquid cleaners, and unlike them, there's no chemicals or moisture to leech out of the wood later and damage the gun metal.

[Steve P]

No matter how many people read the post, you will be unlikely to get a consensus.  I tried the whiting thing.  What a mess!!  I have not used the oven cleaner as it smells worse than the cosmoline.  Heat has been my best friend when removing cosmoline from my stocks.  I lived in a house with a wood stove.  Wife used to hate it, but most winters there were 2 or 3 stocks sitting near the wood stove.  She never threw one in the fire, but she did complain about the cosmoline coming out and smelling up the living room.  After a few days of weeping and wiping, most came out pretty good.  Another good source is good old sunshine.  Set your rifle outside on a hot afternoon.  Wipe down the stock about every half hour.  You will see the cosmo just gooping out.  I have tried a hair dryer (slow), but have not tried my heat gun.  I will have to check that out to see how it does.

Good luck and stay safe in whichever method you choose.

Steve 

[Huffmanite]

I heat the wood too with a heat gun and use paper towels to absorb the oil that seeps out of the grain.  I then use a product made by Olympic that I bought at Lowes.  It is called Olympic Oxy Deck cleaner and as its name suggests, used for cleaning wooden decks so it is safe for wood.  You mix the Oxy grandules with warm water and liberally brush it on.  While wet, I then use paper towels to wipe off any oil the cleaner has removed from the wood.  I may repeat this step several times.  I then rinse the oxy cleaner off the wood and wipe again with paper towels to help absorb any excess water on the stock.  When the stock is dry you should it's color much lighter than before its cleaning with Oxy.

[efremtags]

I read and article about re-finishing old mausers about 12 years ago. I followed it and successfully striped and refinished a 7x57 FN Mauser built for the Argentinian army.

Use 90% isopropryl alcohol. You will need about 1 quart. It is very mild on steel and other parts and will not raise the grain of the wood to severely, but it pulls the oil right out of the stock.
I finished my gun with some gun oil and the wood is beautifully grained underneath all that crud.

Total time to strip was about 1 hr.

[ECV Slick]

I've cleaned surp stocks many different ways...  Oven cleaner is "fast" - but the stock smelled so bad I wound up selling the rifle...  Now I like to use Walmart carburator cleaner to blast away all the cosmoline and then let it sit in the sun and repeatedly wipe it down with alcohol.  The aclohol doesn't make the wood stink and will really leach out a lot of the oil (when baked in direct sunshine).  Be patient - it takes time!  I've heard of guys using the diswasher and getting good results (+ getting the dents raised from the hot water).  I haven't tried this technique yet as the sun & alcohol has done well for me.

My advice is to try the "least invasive" method FIRST, since you can always get more aggressive if need be...

[1911crazy]

I use kerosene to clean cosmoline from the steel.

I use murphy's wood soap to clean the stocks.  I let it soak between wiping them dry too.

If the stock is that oily use the hot sun and put the stock in a black plastic bag in the car and cook it out.

I have used a steam iron with hot water on a rag to steam out dings and dents out of the stocks.  I do leave some dings & dents as history marks too.  I made the worst swiss stocks look great too. 

The its behlen solar lux stain and formby's tung oil finish......

Note:  There are some stocks that are so oily they will never clean up 100% these you leave in that condition.  Some of my german mausers and 303 britts are the worst for oily stocks. I also have one yugo model 59 sks that is still bleeding out to this day opec is looking for this one to sell the oil.

[S.B.]

In the summer time, let it stand under a piece of glass in the bright sun shine. The oil will leach out of the stock may take several days? Quit sanding on the stock!

[1911crazy]

I try not to sand the stocks.  But being an ex cabinet maker and having the touch and doing it right and taking my time with very fine paper i can restore the stock not to its orginal new condition but something thats much prettier to look at but yet still well used looking.  I don't want a brand new gun.

With sks stocks you can blend in the chipped areas and restain the area to match and go over the stock with formby's tung oil and you'll never know it was redone they come out that great.

I'm not a fan of using a stripper or oven cleaner.

I don't redo all my stocks.  I have my collectors and my shooters/hunters seperate.

I did have a butt ugly egyptian FN49 that had many coats of finish on it.  I took coarse steelwool with lots of elbow grease to reviel an awesome looking wood grain after the crappy coats of finish were removed they came off that easy.  Now my $270 8mm FN49 is a real looker..

If i were just starting out refinishing stocks you should practice on a spare stock first.  Never use a coarse sand paper.  And take the stock down to 320 or 400 grit as your finish paper.  Then i stain it and do the 400 grit gain so i'm sure i hit every spot with the fine paper.  Then stain it gain and use 0000 steelwool between the coats of stain.  I also use formby's tung oil finish and again 0000 steelwool between coats of finish too.  The finish will soak in and once it builds up even use the 0000 steelwool again and then johnsons paste wax as the last thing to do and your done.

[S.B.]

With sanding your going to loose any military proof marks and soo much more??? If you want pretty, get a replacement stock!

[deerhunter]

The best way I found to get cosmoline out of a stock was to shoot it a lot on a hot summer day.  And keep a lot of paper towels handy.  The oil seeps out and you just keep mopping it off the stock.  Eventually you know you got it all when it stops seeping.

I have never refinished a stock, I just rub it down with the oiled rag that I wiped down the metal parts with, and it looks good.

[1911crazy]

With sanding your going to loose any military proof marks and soo much more??? If you want pretty, get a replacement stock!

No i don't i sand it very lightly nothing is lost.

They say don't sand the stocks but the mosins were sanded with a disc sander and refinished and there selling them right now is the value hurt on them?  You can see the sanding marks on them and mine you can't.

[S.B.]

Maybe, just the Russian way of doing things?