Shot MY 54 Cal Hawken--Range Report

[McLernon]

Shot my ML for first time today. I am using 530 rb with 0.01 inch patches. The first 20 shots were in a 6 inch pattern at 50 yards. My last 5 rounds went into two inches. A good start I think. I think a 535 ball would have been better and i plan to cast some with my new Lee mold. Also 0.015 inch pillow ticking will be next on my list. I will post a range report with 535 rb.

Mc

[Dillohide]

With the .530 RB I've used .015 and .018 patches with 80 grains ffg and both shoot very well. A consistent 3 inch or less group at 100 yards. A lot depends on how deep your rifle groves are. In my Green Mountain barrel they are pretty deep so the .018 seem to work better. Haven't shot my original T/C Renegade barrel with RB in a while but used to use .015 patches in it. I've never tried the .535 RB. The 54 cal is a very accurate. Getting used to and holding the same sight picture each time is the big thing.

[ELMO]

   McLernon if you could check your patches after the shot, if you can find them, they will tell you alot about possibly having seal problems like blow-by. If you have a gas leak the patch will show it and a thicker patch would probably help or even go to a bore button. It sounds like you have been getting pretty good accuracy and good luck to ya.... 

[flintlock]

A .010 patch is too thin...We are asking a lot of a patch...Move to a .015 or buy the WalMart cotton pillow ticking and cut at the muzzle...It mikes out at .018...Store bought patches already lubed can burn through too easily, especially if they are too old, this breaks down the cotton...

I shoot the WalMart ticking, lubed with either SnoSeal or homemade lube made with a base of bee wax, caster oil and Murphy's oil soap...
I use 80grs of Goex FFF, shooting a .530 homemade cast ball...You should be able to keep all shots within 1-1 1/2 inches at 50 yards...

[McLernon]

Pedersoli recommends a 535 ball so I have casted some up. I'll rty with the 010 patches first but plan to get some 0.015 pillow ticking. I must say I have concerns about getting it stuck.

Mc

[Dillohide]

You can also get .012 patches but don't think .015 will be to thick with your .535 ball.  The extra cloth will go in the rifling groves. Think we all agree .010 is to thin for the charge you need to send that ball downrange. You are probably burning a hole in it which cost accuracy and may lead to leading. The thinner patches, .010 and .012, are primarily for the reproduction military rifled muskets which have shallow grove rifling designed for Minie balls but can also shoot round balls. A lot of people put a wad down over the powder in those to keep the thin patch from burning and to stop blow by. If you want to use the thin patch you can use a wad or put some filler like dry cream of wheat on top of the powder, then the patch and ball.

[McLernon]

Thanks for all the helpful infornation. P&B is quite an art which I am just beginning to appreciate and learn. BTW Pedersoli recommends 0.010 inch patches in all their 54 cal offerings. It is clear to me I have some experimenting to do. Love doing this kind os stuff.................................3 inches at 100 yards is my goal.

Mc

[flintlock]

You're not going to get the ball stuck down the barrel, I have seen many competitive shooters hammering a ball to get it started and then ramming with their hand down the barrel...Lead is soft, that's why it makes a good projectile, when you get the ball started, it confirms to the size of the barrel, once it does this, the patch and ball can be rammed down....

Now, you should make a 1/2 inch diameter loading stick, pin a threaded cleaning jag on one end and a handle on the other...Go to Lowe's Hardware and buy one of those screws that has wood threads on one end and #10x32 threads on the other (this should match the threaded jag)...This way, when you load that ball without powder, you have a good, stout cleaning rod to pull it back out with...Screw the machine screw threads into the cleaning jag, slide it down until it contacts the ball and then screw the wood screw into the ball a couple of turns and pull it out...

Whenever I take a new side lock shooter to the range the first thing I do is load a patch and ball without powder....You would be surprised how many aren't prepared  to pull a dry ball out, this way, they learn what to do right off...

OR...If you are shooting a percussion, push the ball down to the breach, remove the nipple and put 5grs or so of powder in the drum, replace the nipple and shoot the ball out...

If you are shooting a flinter, you can do the same, just work some into the touch hole...

[kevthebassman]

OR...If you are shooting a percussion, push the ball down to the breach, remove the nipple and put 5grs or so of powder in the drum, replace the nipple and shoot the ball out...

If you are shooting a flinter, you can do the same, just work some into the touch hole...

Personally I think this is the better plan.  I've done it (dry-balled) a couple times and haven't had to pull one yet, even when I rammed one home EXTRA EXTRA hard waiting for the crunch of the powder compacting.  Let me tell you brother, hearing that ball pop out and into the bushes was the sweetest sound I could have imagined.  Only took a pinch of powder to get it done.

[flintlock]

I agree, that is the better method, but...If you hunt in the rain and your main charge gets wet, or you are swabbing between shots and use too much solvent and get the breech wet, you still need to know how to pull a ball...

Another thought...If your main charge gets wet, before you pull the ball, pour water, alcohol, solvent, whatever down the barrel and let it soak into the powder so when you are trying to pull the ball the rifle doesn't discharge...Just a safety issue...Have fun!!!

[kevthebassman]

I agree, that is the better method, but...If you hunt in the rain and your main charge gets wet, or you are swabbing between shots and use too much solvent and get the breech wet, you still need to know how to pull a ball...

Another thought...If your main charge gets wet, before you pull the ball, pour water, alcohol, solvent, whatever down the barrel and let it soak into the powder so when you are trying to pull the ball the rifle doesn't discharge...Just a safety issue...Have fun!!!

Well I have a ball puller.  Not looking forward to the day I have to use it, but I have one.  Although I don't think too much solvent between shots will be the problem.... I spit-patch!

[Ironwood]

For about $25 or $30 you can purchase a CO2 Discharger.  They work like a charm on precussion and flintlocks.  I used to hunt in a sort of settled area.  With our high humidity I like to discharge my rifle each night after a days hunt.  Shooting at night in that area would get you some company real quick!  The CO2 Discharger solved that problem.

[McLernon]

Thanks so much for all the great info.

Mc